Using turn indicators as DRLs on 2009 HB

[ezhacker1]

If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.

[tamrat]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.

Thank you very much for taking your time. This was what I was thinking about in the first place. Running this in MultiSim yields 6V after the pulse-to-steady conversion and it wasn't triggering the relay. So I added an op-amp to boost the voltage to 12V and when I ran the simulation the bulb kept blowing even though it was only getting 12V. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Maybe my power source, I tried it both with a function generator sending a sqaure wave signal and also a pulsed voltage source.

What is your opinion on using the signal from the headlight dimmer switch? The signal is a 12V steady at all times, both for the left and right turn indicators. When you use a turn indicator the voltage drops to 0V. Can't this be used to close a relay at all times except when the indicators are being used?

[tamrat]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.

I don't know why this didn't work the first time (in simulation). But there is good news. With the comment on switchbacks and this diagram and also help from a lot of people, I have a fully working system now. I mocked it up on the bench and its perfect. Flawless.

Here is the wiring diagram and component specs:


The 6600uF capacitor holds plenty enough charge to keep the relay energized for about 1.6 seconds. This duration is long enough when compared to the period of the pulses from the indicator light wires.

I'll have already started installing the system. I have laid out wires and where every thing goes. I just need waterproof containers for the circuits and also a switch that will fit one of the empty slots around the AUX port. And its a bummer that the Yaris doesn't have a gromet in the driver's side (LHD). I had to pull it though the passenger side.

I'll put up pictures once I'm done.

Tamrat,

[Kasbien]

Originally Posted by tamrat

I'll put up pictures once I'm done.

Tamrat,

Thread revival.

Did you ever get this working in your actual car?