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Old 04-13-2019, 04:19 PM   #1
2bz
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris 3DR Hatch MT
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The lube used is GL4 75W. That's essentially the Toyota spec. Should be ok
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Old 04-13-2019, 04:38 PM   #2
tmontague
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bz View Post
The lube used is GL4 75W. That's essentially the Toyota spec. Should be ok
Is it a straight 75w oil though? If so then it is too thin at operating temps
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:06 PM   #3
kivig
 
Drives: 2SZ-FE, 5MTM, 2008 TMMF
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Is it a straight 75w oil though? If so then it is too thin at operating temps
The idea was, as suggested manyplace on this forum with mostly positive feedback for situations like this, to use the thinnest oil allowable, to increase ability of synchros to pierce it.
And even with that - as described - it's not even close to enough when below 0C - then I have to carefully push it for a solid second or more to avoid gear grind or just floor it and skip to 3rd and then 5th.
It's better at moment as it is warmer (maybe due to new synchro too to some limited extent), but the realization that it still skips a tooth or two, slowly filing the gear away every time I flick the knob a bit faster in traffic is not something I'm used to tolerating when it comes to machinery.

Starting to lean towards finding another gearbox and replacing most of it.
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Old 04-14-2019, 02:56 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 2bz View Post
The lube used is GL4 75W. That's essentially the Toyota spec. Should be ok
You can find not just a few examples here in the forum where users used original Toyota oil and it solved their problem - despite the fact that the non-original oils they used before did meet Toyota specifications fully and their brand was sound.
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by komichal View Post
You can find not just a few examples here in the forum where users used original Toyota oil and it solved their problem - despite the fact that the non-original oils they used before did meet Toyota specifications fully and their brand was sound.
It's just that the mechanism of how the oil could fix things (by not being too thick) seems to be already there. But it is cheaper than a gearbox, so might be worth a try. Will check whether I can find original.
Edit: also it is likely that the oil I've already replaced was from factory...
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