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#1 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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A good tuning shop will know exactly what the reality would be with a swapped engine which now involves an additional wiring diagram and complexities. A good shop is full of work and isn't grasping at work to keep the lights on which makes the cost reflective of what it would cost to be worth it for them. Again, I guarantee this is their all in cost for a well sorted car, not one that has idle issues and ambient temp issues that need to be sorted by the owner. A standalone is a whole different ball game than a piggyback, they are not even close. Dealing with DBW vs a piggyback which keeps the original ECU in place to manage all of that is apples to oranges. Your build is an example of the above. How much time have you put into making your car driveable and idle properly? Keep in mind this is all on a piggyback and not a standalone. Now think of how much time it would have been for a tuner to do all of that when you factor all of the time in that you spent reading things online and various wiring diagrams. When you take a step back you are hours upon hours into your build, and all of this is just to get it street driveable, not necessarily ready for the demands of a track and heat soak or various maps. I am no different, but if I expected a shop to do what I did I would expect to pay big $. In the world of tuning and car builds you pay to play...or you do it yourself (and still pay somewhat). Yes the above quote is a lot of cash but not out of the realm of what I would somewhat expect for a top tuning shop for a ready to go car.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
You are correct in that I did chase a few issues. I suffered idle bucking and found the cure for that (2.2Kohm resistor) on the crank signal wire. I also did have to make alterations to my fuel and timing maps to compensate for the difference between a dyno tune and the street driving realities. So far, I have been extremely fortunate. My car starts virtually as soon as I turn the key, Idle is perfect. What I would like in a standalone - vs the piggyback - though is the ability to control partial boost/partial AFR.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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