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#1 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,784
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Quote:
In my experience it’s best to heat rusted fasteners with a torch before trying to remove them. Heated up cherry red. Not often necessary to resort to EZ Out with that approach.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Yes, I agree. In this case it was nearly impossible to get anything on it as it was pretty corroded. My mechanic heats them up red hot, then uses an ice cube on the fastener and immediately removes it. Due to the difficult position and the fact that I had to become a contortionist just to get something on to turn the bolt shank, I couldn't coordinate heat, a removal tool attached while holding an inspection mirror in the other hand. Much of this job was done 'blind'. I feel thankful that I managed to drill and tap straight and the nut ended up flush to the manifold. If the engine had been out of the car, it would have been a quick job, I suspect. Live and learn. The next time, I'll know exactly what to do and hopefully it won't be in such an awkward and cramped position.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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