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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback Automatic Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 7
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Well, the mechanic I took it to misdiagnosed it as a bad replacement alternator and replaced it. He then called me back and said it was acting the same and that he is checking the drive pulley on the crank to see if it is slipping, which is laughable because it obviously wasn't when I put in the first replacement alternator and the car would be making noise if this were true.
The guy told me this and said he'd call back in an hour...3 hours later ... no call. So, I called him and got no answer. Don't know how this will play out but I'm getting angry. This car is my livelihood, I drive UberEats for a living. It's already cost me 2 grand in parts and lost wages not including what this mechanic might take me for. My best educated guess is that it is a short at the blower motor resistor pack. The blower motor was the first thing to stop working, and the resistor pack looked like brown corrosion was on the bottom. It was hard to see because I was using a mirror. I was on my way to get an angled screwdriver and multimeter to remove and check the resistor when it died. Should have had them tow the thing back to my place, I might have it fixed by now. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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