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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,784
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Well what did you decide to do?
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
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I am actually thinking of using a form of "hand tightening" (without anti-seize compound); you have inspired me Bronsin. More details are below.
An example torque wrench that I could probably use is this one from Harbor Freight Tools that has a 3/8" drive. The reviews on this wrench and other click wrenches are pretty good, but about 10% are 1 star. And if you look at those reviews (and similar reviews for other click type torque wrenches, for example on Amazon) a common theme is that they are not reliable at the low end of the range and that you can't hear or feel the "click." This often leads the user to exert too much torque and strip threads or break the bolt, etc, with often disastrous consequences. I really do not need to pay a mechanic drill out a busted spark plug and clean out the resultant dust out of a cylinder. So I think I may just get a "feel" for the proper force by practicing with my digital bathroom weight scale and knowing the lever length (e.g, 1 foot or 6 inches) I would exert the proper force with my hand. I have tried this already and it seems to work. In fact I have taken my battery operated digital scale outside by the car and I think I can practice on site and pretty accurately reproduce the proper force by feel. The proper force would be about 13 lbs for a 1 foot handle length and about 26 lbs for a 6 inch handle length. I don't think I will use anti-seize compound, it appears to be an unnecessary complication. I want to try to stay under maximum torque to avoid any damage. QUESTION: What do you think Bronsin? Any comments from others will be welcomed as well. Thanks, R. Last edited by RMcG; 08-17-2021 at 01:30 AM. |
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| anti-seize, sparkplugs |
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