Clutch suddenly not disengaging after high revs

[stidnam]

The breather hole on the front side of the bell housing is fairly big actually. There's a rubber grommet in it with the entry facing downward. You can just pull the grommet out. Should be plenty of room to stick a 8mm camera.

Not sure what you'd cap the brake line with. Maybe a spare piece of crimped line? You'd certainly get a LOT of pressure back on the pedal if you did that. Worth a try.

Normal bleeding through the T piece will displace the air. I was sceptical as well when I bled mine because there's only one line into the slave. However, bleeding it repeatedly through the T piece on the front of the box does work. Given you had a sudden failure while driving, it's either going to be the slave or master that's kaput.

It's also normal for the clutch to lose all pressure during the bleeding process, similar to what happens with brakes.

How many km's on the slave cyl? Was the clutch replaced without replacing the slave at any point?

[Hendrix]

Originally Posted by stidnam

The breather hole on the front side of the bell housing is fairly big actually. There's a rubber grommet in it with the entry facing downward. You can just pull the grommet out. Should be plenty of room to stick a 8mm camera.

Not sure what you'd cap the brake line with. Maybe a spare piece of crimped line? You'd certainly get a LOT of pressure back on the pedal if you did that. Worth a try.

Normal bleeding through the T piece will displace the air. I was sceptical as well when I bled mine because there's only one line into the slave. However, bleeding it repeatedly through the T piece on the front of the box does work. Given you had a sudden failure while driving, it's either going to be the slave or master that's kaput.

It's also normal for the clutch to lose all pressure during the bleeding process, similar to what happens with brakes.

How many km's on the slave cyl? Was the clutch replaced without replacing the slave at any point?

56 000 miles / 90 000km on the clock, original clutch original slave (hydraulic concentric bearing).

It seems to disengage a very little bit. If I start it in reverse with the clutch pressed all the way down and pull the hand brake and press the throttle pedal, it keeps running.

When bleeding, I can hear the spring creaking a little bit when it pushes the fluid out, same as when engine is off and I open the hood and door and press the clutch, I can hear the soft creaking of the spring when I move the clutch pedal.

What I notices is a distinguished difference between the first 0,5 to 0,75 inch of feedback force from the pedal to the rest of the pedal travel. It feels like free play. IS THIS NORMAL????... it could be just the amount of missing pressure preventing the clutch from disengaging.. this would make the master cylinder the main suspect. As said, if the pedal would have about half an inch more travel it would, I think, disengage.