DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 15 - Toyota Yaris Forums

*tk-421* · 05-22-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

Yup... Happened to me too... Still haven't fixed it, but don't really have to either

marcus · 05-22-2009, 12:06 PM

get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 02:10 PM

If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 03:19 PM

ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm.....
Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out.

O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 04:07 PM

drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 04:14 PM

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape.

The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in god shape.

yea i did use the o ring. Gonna try and dyno it on Monday cause i don't really notice a diff really
I an attempt to figure this out i sarted reading
http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairm...%20Control.pdf
search 2103

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 04:36 PM

Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 04:39 PM

yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it

Yoda · 05-22-2009, 06:49 PM

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

t0m4s · 05-22-2009, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

cel gone, oscillated gone and stock idle... and u havent touch the idle screw, right?

jkuchta · 05-22-2009, 11:31 PM

The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road.

If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back.

If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims).

PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!).

Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap.

jkuchta · 05-23-2009, 02:15 PM

Re-read post #78 in this thread.

If you adjust the idle screw while the car is running, then the ECU will compensate to run a preset idle speed, and you won't know if your adjustment worked or not.

MGargano · 05-23-2009, 02:54 PM

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

*tk-421* · 05-23-2009, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

It will, but it will always end up higher than stock. I settled on a 2.5K cold idle, which isn't too much I think.

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 01:11 AM

Just thought I'd repost this:

Hey everyone:

I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance!

First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though.

1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak.

2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation.

3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling.

4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration.

These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving.

On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal.

BIG DIFFERENCE!

1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down.

2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness.

Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm.

Note: The idle speed in the last 1500+ miles has settled down to 600-700 rpm, which I would attribute to ECU trimming.

Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much.

A note on setting the idle:

Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out).

Driving impressions:

1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB) above 2200 rpms.

2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts).

Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive!

As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right.

A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)!

Side note:

I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

jkuchta · 05-24-2009, 01:25 AM

http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/v...&cm_ite=V28297

I have a set of these, and they work pretty well. I got them at ACE Hardware.

MGargano · 05-24-2009, 01:32 AM

Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

05-22-2009, 04:14 PM	#6
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold. Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)? Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape. The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-22-2009 at 04:30 PM.

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05-22-2009, 12:06 PM	#2
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

05-22-2009, 02:10 PM	#3
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

05-22-2009, 03:19 PM	#4
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm..... Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out. O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?

05-22-2009, 04:07 PM	#5
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

05-22-2009, 04:36 PM	#8
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.

05-22-2009, 04:39 PM	#9
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it

05-22-2009, 06:49 PM	#10
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

05-22-2009, 11:31 PM	#12
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road. If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back. If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims). PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!). Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap.

05-23-2009, 02:15 PM	#13
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Re-read post #78 in this thread. If you adjust the idle screw while the car is running, then the ECU will compensate to run a preset idle speed, and you won't know if your adjustment worked or not.

05-23-2009, 02:54 PM	#14
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

05-24-2009, 01:11 AM	#16
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Just thought I'd repost this: Hey everyone: I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance! First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though. 1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak. 2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation. 3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling. 4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration. These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving. On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal. BIG DIFFERENCE! 1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down. 2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness. Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm. Note: The idle speed in the last 1500+ miles has settled down to 600-700 rpm, which I would attribute to ECU trimming. Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much. A note on setting the idle: Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out). Driving impressions: 1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB) above 2200 rpms. 2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts). Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive! As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right. A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)! Side note: I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

05-24-2009, 01:25 AM	#17
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/v...&cm_ite=V28297 I have a set of these, and they work pretty well. I got them at ACE Hardware.

05-24-2009, 01:32 AM	#18
MGargano Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 792	Thanks... will try that on my next day off.