Waxing the Yaris?

[grampi]

Originally Posted by DARK505

I highly suggest Zanio! It works wonders! Ill see if i can get pics of my buddies Mazdaspeed that he used it on... after he had layered it several times it looked like a mirror NO JOKE!
I will be telling the dealer NOT to wax, wash or touch the exterior of my yaris (whenever it happens) and i will be applying Zanio the first day i get it.
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

Its a bit pricey but SO worth it.
When i get pics you will understand.

I've tried many of the waxes and polishes on the market, and none of them can even come close to comparing with Zaino. The shine it produces is the best I've ever seen, and no other wax/polish lasts even close to as long. I've had Zaino still beading water on my vehicles after a year, and they're always parked outside. I won't use anything except Zaino. For best results, wash vehicle with Dawn dish soap, use clay bar, then apply Zaino. The results are nothing short of astounding!

[Nimble]

Originally Posted by grampi

I've tried many of the waxes and polishes on the market, and none of them can even come close to comparing with Zaino. The shine it produces is the best I've ever seen, and no other wax/polish lasts even close to as long. I've had Zaino still beading water on my vehicles after a year, and they're always parked outside. I won't use anything except Zaino. For best results, wash vehicle with Dawn dish soap, use clay bar, then apply Zaino. The results are nothing short of astounding!

That's a mighty fine opinion, and while Zaino makes good products, as a pro detailer, I can assure you there's better. For less money.

[grampi]

Originally Posted by Nimble

That's a mighty fine opinion, and while Zaino makes good products, as a pro detailer, I can assure you there's better. For less money.

It definitely looks good, but I've seen Zaino shines that good. What is it and how long does it last?

[why?]

From what I understand you should definately not polish it the first day. I guess that the paint could possibly take some time to fully cure, ad I guess polishing uncured paint is bad.

[DARK505]

Originally Posted by why?

From what I understand you should definately not polish it the first day. I guess that the paint could possibly take some time to fully cure, ad I guess polishing uncured paint is bad.

The paint should have had time to cure in the time it takes to get from japan to the US to me. I may have misstated how quick i would Zanio my car, but i will be doing it very soon after i get it. I will let the pics talk for me.

Then I'll wax it using a 10" orbital Yes I'm lazy! But there will still be some hand waxing for those hard to reach places.

That can damage the clear coat due to the high speed/pressure of the orbital (swirls/rubbing away the clear coat). I hope you dont plan on Dawn washing it...

[bigsky2]

Originally Posted by DARK505

That can damage the clear coat due to the high speed/pressure of the orbital (swirls/rubbing away the clear coat). I hope you dont plan on Dawn washing it...

RE: Orbital damaging Clear Coat - That is a popular misconception!

I don't understand your statement above, because an orbital polisher (or rotary polisher), when used properly and with a quality wax compound, is designed to protect the clear coat and paint, thereby preventing the swirl effect to some degree.

If the polisher is a random-orbit polisher, the pad does not actually spin in a direct circular motion against the surface. Rather, it uses a mechanism that causes the pad to both rotate in a circle and at the same time the pad oscillates in an eccentric pattern inside this larger, main rotating pattern or action of the machine. Because it jiggles and oscillates it creates a buffering effect that does not create excessive amounts of heat and does not eat away at the clear coat. Some even have clutches that slow the operation speed if you apply too much pressure.

On the other hand, if you were to use a rotary polisher and you are inexperienced, then you might damage the clearcoat if you are not vigilant with the amount of pressure applied to the surface and also the speed at which it is operating.

Most random-orbital polishers you see for under $75 dollars at the hardware store are made solely for consumer and novice detailing usage. There is little risk to the car's finish because the polisher is designed for light to moderate usage.

No, I will not be using Dawn to wash the vehicle. It will be Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo

[Master2192]

I wouldn't start claybaring fresh paint either, claybar is an abrasive and using it too much can go through the clear coat and start removing paint. Regular waxing will really protect the paint very well, I wax my g/fs WRX ever 3 months as it rains alot here in washington and I'd like to keep it looking good.

Currently using Meguirs Gold Class Liquid wax and loving it.

[bigsky2]

Excellent advice RE: Polishing + Clay Bar

I guess for a car that's very new, eg. less than 3 months, polishing and using a clay bar to remove contaminants is not necessary and can hinder the paint as some of you have said.

I guess I'll start with a thorough car wash and appropriately hand dry it afterwards.

Then I'll wax it using a 10" orbital Yes I'm lazy! But there will still be some hand waxing for those hard to reach places.

[ricko]

I have to admit despite my earlier whine about waxing with Turtle Wax (dealer's recommendation), it has worked out well. The car buffs up nicely after a wash, and the surface seems to repel dust and dirt well. Now if I could only do something about the seagulls ..........................

[DARK505]

On the other hand, if you were to use a rotary polisher and you are inexperienced, then you might damage the clearcoat if you are not vigilant with the amount of pressure applied to the surface and also the speed at which it is operating.

Well i guess i can see where i am mistaken. bigsky2, thank you for the well explained post and not insulting me for being mistaken (ive seen it happen many times on other forums).

It will be Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo

Im not familiar with that one, but i will look into it. I still will most likely use Zanio tho, because of the great jobs ive seen after using it.
Here are a couple pics of my buddys MSP after being Zanio'd:

Now if I could only do something about the seagulls ..........................

Covered parking...?

[ricko]

Covered parking (a garage) means a huge jump in housing costs here in resort-land. I was thinking more along the lines of a pet owl.

[DARK505]

HAHA, owls would be a perfect addition to ward off the seagull prob... but what to do about the owl droppings... hmm maybe an ocelot would help with the owl prob

[wwwh355]

Originally Posted by DARK505

HAHA, owls would be a perfect addition to ward off the seagull prob... but what to do about the owl droppings... hmm maybe an ocelot would help with the owl prob

I guess, SAM will help.

[bigsky2]

DARK505:

No problem! I once was also skeptical of polishers and the potential damage it could inflict on paint. I saw first hand what a rotary polisher and orbital polisher could do if used properly and the results were amazing.

I also saw the possible damage you can cause to the paint by using a rotary polisher without any experience.

It's best to stick within one "family" of detailing products because each brand has its own chemical formulas that tested across several applications. That's why you see a lot of detailers and detailing products suggesting that you use Product X, then Product Y, then Product Z from Manufacturer ABC.

Obviously it's not set in stone, because I mix different brands depending on the application.

For something mild like shampoo for the car, I think we can use any brand that's available to us at a good price.

[bigsky2]

Update

I applied the the wax (Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax, consumer line) to my Yaris with a 10" random orbital polisher last weekend.

Results?
VERY BEAUTIFUL.

Meguiar's Gold Class wax applied very easily using the polisher and also by hand, and it dried in about 10 minutes. I changed bonnets and the removal/buffing of the wax was extremely easy (and pleasing). The wax came off very easily and left no streaks at all. It revealed a highly glossy and polished shine and it felt so smooth to the touch. I threw a clean towel on the car and it slipped off!

I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the process because I had my hands tied.

My recommendations for waxing, some based on common suggestions:

- Do it in an enclosed environment so as to prevent any dust and debris settling on the coat of wax as you are applying it (ie. Underground parking area, garage, somewhere covered)
- Do not apply wax in a hot or wet environment, avoid direct sunlight
- Make sure your car is washed, cleaned, and dried
---> Washed: All dirt and debris is removed via car wash/shampoo and water
---> Cleaned: All contaminants, oxidation, and other surface irritants removed (ie. use a clay bar or other detailer products to get rid of these things)
---> Dried: Dry it with a lint free towel or cloth (terry or microfibre)

- Give yourself plenty of time to do all of the above!
- Use an orbital or PC if you can, it will make your job a lot easier
- Hand apply/remove wax in areas the machine polisher cannot reach
- Allow the wax to dry to a haze, and perform a swipe test to determine if it's ready to remove
---> Swipe Test: Take a clean finger, and swipe it across the surface of the car. If your finger leaves residue or streaks, then the wax is not ready to be removed. If the surface is clean after you swiped it, then it's ready to be removed.

In terms of the types of bonnets to use, I used the following:

- Applying wax: Vinyl-lined wax applicator (the backside of the bonnet is vinyl lined so that the wax does not soak through the bonnet, thus allowing the bonnet to apply wax appropriately to the surface of the car)
- Removing wax/Buffing: Foam wax remove bonnet**

** You can also use a terry cloth or microfibre polishing bonnet to remove wax/buff, but a foam remover works just as well

For those spots you had to do by hand, remove the wax using a terry or microfibre cloth.

And finally.. How to test if your car needs to be waxed?

The Squeak Test!
---> On a clean and dry surface, take a clean towel and ball it up so that you can put your fist around the towel and rub it firmly along the surface of the car in a circular motion. If you hear the towel squeaking against the surface AND OR if there is any friction as you move the towel, then that means there is no wax on the surface. Since wax increases slip and decreases friction, the presence of friction indicates that there is little or no wax on the surface.

Hope this helps anyone who hasn't waxed a car before, as this was my first time and I received lots of help from experienced friends and the detailing gurus at Meguiar's online.

[ricko]

I'd be careful about choosing any underground parking as a place to wax. Most of the ones I've experienced have had a higher dust content in the air, than outdoors. Unless of course, you live near a construction site.

[bigsky2]

Originally Posted by ricko

I'd be careful about choosing any underground parking as a place to wax. Most of the ones I've experienced have had a higher dust content in the air, than outdoors. Unless of course, you live near a construction site.

The underground parking lot I used to do all the work was very clean and I didnt notice a whole lot of dust; the building is 3 months old as it just finished completion.

It also depends on the human/auto traffic through the particular parking lot, as the one I used was a two floors down and there were not that many cars or people walking/passing by to kick up the dust that was there.

[505zoom]

Good info here fellas... figured I'd say howdy to you toyota folks and give a couple of my reccomendations on this one.

First, only polish a new car if there is good reason. If there are any swirls from the original dealership cleanup (mine had minor swirling on the roof and hood), I reccomend a VERY mild polish/compound like PoorBoy's SSR1. To prep the paint, Dawn dish soap is aggresive enough to strip most contaminates (and any crap that the dealer might have put on there), without harming the clear. A clay bar will take care of anything else that the dawn leaves behind, but with new paint you shouldn't even need to do much besides hit isolated areas.

Only use the dawn wash if you want to strip old waxes, polishes, or contaminates. DO NOT use dawn after you have your desired wax on the paint. Meguiars gold class was mentioned before and it is a good soap. Their NXT stuff is good too. Nothing makes the car SMELL better than Zaino wash though.

Always remember, polishing and waxing your car even with the best products is worthless if you don't prep the paint well. You want it to be as clean and spot free as possible before you seal it up.

Circular *rotary* (i.e. cheap pepboys or autozone machine) buffing is bad on fresh paint... most cars have ample curing time when they come from Japan, but it is a good rule of thumb to wait a month from the time the car was sprayed before using anything but hand power. Check the manufacture date on the sticker (drivers door frame) if you want to be sure.

Porter Cable is by far the best bang for the buck when it comes to GOOD machines at a reasonable cost. Lowes has the PC7424 for between 100-109 dollars, and you can find them online for about the same price after shipping. The key is to use high quality pads, and I highly suggest checking out http://www.exceldetail.com for the best pads and backing plates.

Zaino Bros is a synthetic, non traditional style formula, and it absolutely destroys every other product I have ever tried. Klasse All-In-One, FourStar Ultimate Paint Protection and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant is highly reccomended by my detailing guru and is the only other combo I would try at this point.

Anyways, hope this helps some of you, and good luck keeping your new toys fresh and shiney. The folks over at www.autopia.org have more good info about the different products and techniques than anyone else on the web, so check them out if you are serious about taking care of your car.