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#1 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
I'll back you up and say that in my state, spacers are illegal. It decreases the "bite" that a lugnut has on a wheel stud. It can lead to stud or lugnut failure. What some people do to remedy this is to press in longer studs. If fer some reason people want to do this...Toyota uses 12x1.25 or 12x1.5mm threaded studs. |
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#2 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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#3 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
It is not too difficult to calculate whether this would work. You take your original wheel width and offset. You take your new width and offset. (Width(new) minus width(old) ) / 2 = the offset difference. (in inches) Convert this to mm. 1 inch = roughly 24.7mm This offset difference is how much further on each side of the rim, you will be protruding compared to the old rim. So if you are concerned with rubbing on the inside...you take the offset of the original wheel and you subtract the offset difference to it. This will give you the offset needed to ensure no rubbing on the inside edge. If you are concerned with rubbing the fender, you would take the offset of the original wheel and add the offset difference. This gives you the offset for the new rim that ensures no rubbing on the outside edge. Example: Old rim is 15x6 with a 40 offset. New rim is 17x7 The offset difference is .5 inch or 12.8 mm. In order for the inside edge of the new rim to sit at the same place as the old one...the new offset would have to be +27mm. If you were concerned about the outside edge of the rim rubbing, then the correct offset of the new rim would be 53mm. Be careful calculating these offsets. In my example, if you had a 17x7 wheel and used a 27 offset, the wheel would literally be pushed outwards towards the fender about 1 inch. In order to really get a good idea of what fits or not, is to know what is borderling rubbing....and then you can base your calculations on that. Use the borderline rubbing specs as your "old wheel" and calculate your new wheel specs from it...giving a buffer area. |
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#4 | ||
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Only Happy When it Rains
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Quote:
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From the other comments you made, and the pic that is identical to the one I was using, you are agreeing with me, but I guess you just can't admit that.
__________________
Colin Chapman disciple |
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#5 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
There is a fundamental difference in the way you are understanding it. Positive offset is when the hub mounting surface is near the road side of the rim. This has the effect of bringing the wheel further inside the fender. The higher the offset (positive), the more the wheel will sit in towards the car. I didn't contradict myself. If your offset is +50, and you put a 5mm spacer, your new offset will be +45...effectively changing the offset because your mounting surface is 5mm closer to centerline. However, if you had purchased the wheel direct from the manufacturer at a 45 offset, the rim would not have the same measurements. The hub thickness would be the same as a +50 offset...only the mounting surface would be 5mm closer to the centerline of the wheel. The lip on the wheel would be 5mm bigger. I'm not spouting a "guess" as to how this stuff works. I advise people on wheel purchases and give guidelines on width, tire size and offset all the time. |
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#6 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
I am certainly not agreeing with you. If you want to talk about brake clearance: Say you have a 17x7 on a 45 offset...and it happens to have 2mm clearance from the brake caliper. If you take a 17x7 with a 50 offset, it will have the same 2mm clearance from the brake caliper. Offset does not change the hub size. It does not change the hub/face design at all. Offset moves the entire hub/face assembly to a different place inside the rim blank. So if you are rubbing your caliper, getting a different offset wheel doesn't necessarily fix anything. If you throw on a wheel spacer, you are effectively changing the measurement of offset by pushing the hub/face outwards. You are effectively decreasing offset. But then you run into situations where people think that since they artificially changed the offset of the rim setup, that someone else can just run the resulting offset and be fine. An example: a 17x7 with 50 offset wheel doesn't fit because of brake clearance...and you spacered it 5mm. Someone may think now that a 17x7 with a 45 offset should be fine. But it definately is NOT because you are artificially changing the offset and increasing the hub size. |
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#7 |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Either way man, no hard feelings. Not trying to be a dick.
But I think you're giving false info and if people read it and take it as fact, they may be running around with all sorts of fuxored wheel combinations. And that's the worst...to buy a wheel, mount a tire and drive on it only to find out that the suckers don't fit. Wheels are expensive to ship. |
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#8 | |
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) However, this is why you have to use common sense when chosing a spacer for your wheels. (if needed) If you have chosen a 0offset 15x8.5 wheel for example, you have chosen the wrong wheel for a yaris because the spacer would have to be pretty large in mm's to push the wheel far enough out to clear. As long as you don't go extreme with the spacers, your fine. Ignoring spacers and just going with wheels that clear the first time is obviously the better choice, but wheels spacers doesn't automatically mean wheel/lug failure.
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#9 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
If you have a 15x8.5 wheel with a 0 offset you are definately not going to need a spacer. The lower the offset, the further it sticks out. |
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#10 | |
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I'm not trying to argue with you, my main point is to say spacers are a 100% waste of time and dangerous is only valid if you choose an extreme route. You have to choose your wheels and offsets with practical thinking in mind. |
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#11 | ||
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
I'm just saying that a 0 offset makes the the wheel stick out of the fender...not in. I think you had that backwards. This is what you wrote Quote:
Spacers can only "fix" situations when the wheel sits too far in. If it sits too far out, you're fuxored. In my opinion, the extreme spacers are better because their own pressed in studs making them much more reliable and prone to breaking. Last edited by SophieSleeps; 06-01-2006 at 06:48 PM. |
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#12 |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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Dude, I never said I knew anything.
I only pass on info others have related to me, as I have 0 practical knowledge with automobiles, and I have made that abundantly clear. I think I understand what you are saying. You seem to be saying getting the proper wheel fitment is a heck of a lot harder than it seems. And you are an ass.
__________________
Colin Chapman disciple |
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#13 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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Quote:
In 3D, i'm a much nicer person occasionally. Sometimes You can look at the pussy
Last edited by SophieSleeps; 06-02-2006 at 11:36 AM. |
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#14 |
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Guys, you do realize you are getting upset over talking about wheels, right?
You two need to do this; or and just relax. It's not worth it in person, much less on a forum. |
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#15 | |
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Podiatrist
Drives: Turbo IS300 Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 83
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So I look at the picture of the pussy. |
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#16 | |
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toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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by the way!!
you should be running 205/40/17's Not 205/45/17 .. itll make your diameter slightly bigger therefore lost of acceleration as well...small nicky stuff!!
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#17 |
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I am runing 215/40/17 and they fit perfect its close to rubbing but I don't have any rubbing except maybe large pot holes when the car is full.
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#18 |
![]() Drives: 2006 Yaris RS HB Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 4
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