Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[Alien Mantis]

Hehehe.... you guys are addicts.

Healthier than a drug habit, but just as expensive.



( Fun to watch what you guys come up with. )

[Bluevitz-rs]

That connection to the alternator should have a 100A fusible link in it. Otherwise if something shorts out in the alternator, you could have a fire on you hands.

[sqcomp]

Derick...you will NOT set fire to those Hertz speakers! I'll have to come out to your side of the country and re-wire the dang car! I don't want to do that. :D

[derickveliz2]

.
I'm back! a week in NY working 16 hours a day, not good!

- So I do need a 100A fuse in the alternator / + battery line? Didn't see that in many Big 3 DIYs, but I'm all ears to any advice and/or suggestions. Remember I have no idea about all this electric stuff!

- Sqcomp, if you ever come on this side of the pond, you can re-wire my car and enjoy a quiet ride! jeje.

so... what's next?
-install HU
-wires from amps to speakers,
-install amps

and many more!

[derickveliz2]

.
Last night the DEX-P99RS came alive very impressive!

Lots of left over wires in there from the OEM head unit and new RCA (4) cables, and what do I do with the DOOR MUTE connection?

And just to be clear, the blue wire (system remote control) goes from the head unit to the amps! is that right?

Alien Mantis... "you guys are addicts.
Healthier than a drug habit, but just as expensive."

I can't describe better than that an expensive, healthier addiction -


Derick.

[derickveliz2]

.

Ok, for lunch I installed completely the P99 it's working good (at least turns on, no amps connected so I can't hear anything)

Looks very nice, simple and basic. I know it's a monster in the inside! I did put some CLD Tiles in the Metra tray (under the radio) and some CCFoam. I also covered the air ducts above to isolate them and hear less air going through.

I connected all the RCAs, Antenna, 6disc CDcharger, and USB cable.

I will finish putting back together all the panels around the head unit, then I'm going after the Amps!

D.

[derickveliz2]

.
On my way home I was turning on and off the P99, everything looks to be working fine.

What a nice surprise on the screen shows a volt meter, when the car is cruising shows 13.8v and when the car is turned off 12.6v That's cool.

around midnight I worked on the dashboard about 1 hour or so, finished putting back all the panels and the DashMatt.

I did put lots of CCfoam and radiant barrier insulation along the top of the dashboard and above the air ducts

Tomorrow (I mean today) I will get some boards to start making the base of the amps.

can't wait.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

.
What a nice surprise on the screen shows a volt meter, when the car is cruising shows 13.8v and when the car is turned off 12.6v.

This morning when I started my car the volt meter was reading 14.2v

after 15 miles of commute 13.9v and when I got at work 41 miles after and about 45 minutes on the road 13.6v

is this normal? should I be concern? I had my lights on and the AC cranking.

D.

[derickveliz2]

.
BTW... it was a very quiet ride.

I didn't realize how much noise can scoop through the head unit's opening in the middle of the dashboard.

D.

[sqcomp]

I noticed the same thing. At this point I'm ready to say it's normal. I start up mine and my Voltimeter reads anywhere from 14.3 to 14 Volts. At the end of extended listening and cruising I'm at mid 13 Volts like you are.

Isn't it funny though? You sit there an glance at that reading SO MANY TIMES! It's almost like you're thinking, "Okay, is my car going to suddenly suck all the juice from my alternator and I'll end up stuck?"

I find though that I stay around 13.7 Volts if I'm not in stop and go traffic. I'm of the opinion that the only thing that will keep the reading at 14 Volts is an aftermarket alternator. Oh, and the reading when your car is off is very normal.

[derickveliz2]

Thanks sqcomp!

I still need to get that 100 amp fuse in the Big 3

I have a question... can I run speaker wire near by (+) 4 gauge cable? I'm trying to figure out the location of the amps and how the cables run, I know I have to keep away the RCA from (+) in worst case cross them at 90 degrees, right?

Thanks
D.

[sqcomp]

Near? How close is near? If you need to cross the signal and power, I'd do it at a right angle, yes.

I've managed to only have one cable so far that crosses the power...that's on the amp rack and it's unavoidable with the setup I have so far. I will be taking extra steps to shield the two cables from each other regardless.


Get that big 3 done! It's a great value investment. I actually have to downgrade the 250 Ampere fuse that came from Stinger down to a 150 or 175 Ampere fuse. I think I'll go with the lesser fuse simply because it'd take a 300 Ampere draw to blow it anyway. It keeps everything very safe that way.

[talnlnky]

voltage only tells you half of the story. Knowing voltage alone doesn't really tell you if there is a problem or not.... unless it drops below 12v, or peaks above 15v.

When you start your car your alt will start to recharge the battery, the quickest way to do that is to increase the voltage along with the amperage output.

Once your battery is fully charged tho, you should see your voltage drop to as low as 13.2volts because the alt no longer needs to charge.

It is normal.... HOWEVER, if your alternator can't charge the battery as fast as you can drain it (because you got some crazy amp hungry electronics or a bad shorting problem) then your bat will slowly lose its charge. At this same time, the alt might be trying to hold a voltage near 14.5v, but due to the extreme amperage demand, it just can't hold the voltage up... thus you see a sag/dip, and may read something in the 13's. THIS IS BAD, and if you have this issue you will most likely kill both your alt and bat in the near future... and then you might as well get a custom alt or re-think the electronics because you will constantly have alt/bat problems.

[derickveliz2]

Thanks Talnlnky

I don't have amps running, we'll see how it changes as I plug them in.



sqcomp... my P99 turns white screen on and off about every 30 or 40 seconds, did I plug something wrong?
or there is a setting for that? I'm going to dig in the manual.

Should I reset the unit? maybe?


This little head unit looks so simple but when you navigate trough the menus it's scary

[derickveliz2]

Yesterday I went to the local Car-Audio store and asked them for a 100amp fuse/fuse holder for the big 3 that goes from the alternator to the (+) of the Battery... And they told me that it was not necessary an refused to sell me one )o: they made me feel stupid some how, I guess I just have to order one online and not support them on this one.

[derickveliz2]

.
Last night I powered one of the amps, and put a CD in the HU, connected one 6.5 midbass driver, so now the HU, 1 amp and one speaker are working.

[sqcomp]

Derick, sorry brother...I've been working long nights. Okay, the P99 (the US version) is switching from the white contrast to the black contrast sceens. My P-01 did the same thing. This happens after you've reset the piece.

What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.

I don't see the need for a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I do see a need for a fuse from the positive back to the amplifiers though.

As for the Voltage, we're seeing normal operation. There's no dips or peaks in my operation.

Remember...gain match!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Derick, sorry brother...I've been working long nights. Okay, the P99 (the US version) is switching from the white contrast to the black contrast sceens. My P-01 did the same thing. This happens after you've reset the piece.
What you need to do is to turn the tuner off. Then press the function button. You'll go through a setup menu. Your option to change the contrast will be offered on one of those menus. You also have an option to turn off the remote, to change the lighting color, etcetera.
I don't see the need for a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I do see a need for a fuse from the positive back to the amplifiers though.
As for the Voltage, we're seeing normal operation. There's no dips or peaks in my operation.
Remember...gain match!

No problem SQcomp I'll try to change the the settings and set the contrast, I'll let you know.


I was looking for a fuse because of this post above...

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

That connection to the alternator should have a 100A fusible link in it. Otherwise if something shorts out in the alternator, you could have a fire on you hands.

so I don't really need it, OK I'm fine. I do have a fuse for the amps and I have a distribution block with smaller fuses one for each amp.


Ok, this one I'm clue less... how do I do gain match?

Thanks
Derick