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#1 | |
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Just a Herbicidal maniac.
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Sedan Flint Mica Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Roseville, CA - USA.
Posts: 450
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![]() Well that just BLOWS!!! About the job that is, not more time with family part. I was laid off last after 12 years with that employer as my I.T position was "outsourced". However, I was brought back on two months later as a contractor. Been back in that capacity for just over a year now. Hopefully you can afford a little time off and can take care of some of your projects, then regroup and find new employment. Hopefully closer to home! Like you said, think positive!
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace. |
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#2 | |
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Thanks Herb, We'll see what happens. Derick. . |
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#3 |
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#4 |
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Here are the pictures of my new project...
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I tried the left tweeter today and holly cow the tweeter disappears I can't located. And for some reason sounds much clear and crisp without been harsh compare to the one without the sphere, and did a quick test I put the sphere on the right side and I got the same results, I like it. When I started reading about diffractions I just didn't understand it, but there is some thing there that it's working. It's like the MLV I just didn't get it at the beginning, if this turns to be a very ugly idea I will keep searching for more options, or at least I could say, "my car has big balls!" D. |
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#5 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Derick,
Sorry to hear about the job. I know how you feel. I resigned from my last job rather tentatively. I got a job two weeks after that pit my last job to shame. Look forward and not back. Holler at me if you need. You have my phone number. Now...down to the stereo topics. Out of curiosity, when you say best in class, what class are you talking about? I like the stage 4 install emulation with the spheres! Make it happen! Your question about what you should get is still on my mind. You've got enough sub bass. The old D series subs are good woofers. That leaves the mid bass or the tweeter. I'd look at the L6...used perhaps. I wish you could get a pair for $200 bit that's not going to happen. Maybe some clarus mids. The L1 pros are still on the table. I don't know how the job thing will affect your purchases. Right now you have all the speakers to make a system work though.
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine Last edited by sqcomp; 08-20-2010 at 01:01 AM. |
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#6 | |
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10 years ago bought one of the most expensive Pioneer HUs I could find, I was referring to that one, compare to the P-99 10 years after technology is much better. About the spheres I think I'm going to drop off the 5" sphere for the Mids, they are too big and they bring the Mids closer together so I'm thinking that its not good, my stage narrows if I do that and I would like to have it as wide as possible. But the smaller spheres for tweeters it's a go!I think I'm not going to buy expensive L6 ( I would love to ) for now I'm going to be on the safe side until I find out what's going to happen, I'm struggling about the L1 pros, I guess my mind will be much better next week to talk about them. Don't move them from the table!Tomorrow is my last day officially at work, lots of things to bring home. Looking Forward!
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#7 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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10 years ago...thinking thinking thinking...the best Pioneer you could get was the ODR P9 combo. Alpine's was the F#1, McIntosh had the MX5000, Clarion had the DRZ(x) 9255, Nakamichi had the CD700II, I seem to remember Panasonic had that gorgeous tube deck...
There are a few more. Do some staging experaments with your mids down in the kickpanels. If you find that you like that sound, take the tweeters ABOVE 8kHz on the crossover. Those L1s aren't going anywhere. They're collecting dust. Scott would be happy that they might go to a good home. Oh...the L4s might be coming out to make room for the L4SE soon... he he... want a mid that can play over 7 octaves? he he
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#8 | |
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You are so good! I can imagine my lack of knowledge when I went to the car-audio shop and asked for the best HU they had in store. Probably I looked like a dummy with cash in hand for them... I'm just a music lover that learns from brilliant people like you! Ok I'll try to move the mids down in the kickpanels but some thing tells me I won't like it, I could be wrong but I'm a good listener and you are a great teacher. so tweeters about 8kHz what about the mids? from ? to ? Thanks (L1s) I'll contact you next week (from home I guess?) Ok, now you are killing me L4s too, I'll wait a couple of month and you'll be changing your car! tell me how can you translate to me "play over 7 octaves" compare to the HL-70 Hertz please? Thanks for every thing! Here is a picture of my car this morning!
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#9 | |
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Secret Agent
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 350
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I see you have this game ALL FIGURED OUT. ![]() Now, do yourself a huge favor, throw your stuff in that car, and BE DONE WITH IT! ( otherwise, you are doomed to a lifetime of "fiddling" and "tinkering" and "money-spending" like SqComp )
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www.sonicelectronix.com for all your mobile audio needs! |
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#10 |
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#11 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Ouch! I'm just giving options. The L-4 goes 90Hz to 17kHz.
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“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#12 |
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#13 |
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Ok, a second thought after many storm ideas... the 5" balls are back in at the drawing board... D. .
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#14 |
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Good lord bro, i took a brief vacation...And you still at this project, Everything is looking good
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![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#15 |
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#16 |
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Hey guys I'm ebarrased! yes I'm ...
I'm getting engine noise to my mids and tweets (more in the mids) but it's weird...The amp it's right behind the pilots seat so I can reach it very easy and after a little bump on the road the engine noise will start, or right when I turn the HU on, with my hand I tap on the RCA cables where they meet the amp and the noise is gone, suddenly the noise is back and I tap them again, I would drive for 30 miles with no problem, stop for gas and when I turn on the engine and then the HU the noise comes back! I touch the RCAs and the noise is gone? I know I should get other CRA cables and swap them to see if they are defective, but just wanted to throw this out and see if any body had seen this before. And yes my power cables are on the right side and RCAs on the left side. . ![]() . |
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#17 |
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Secret Agent
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 350
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It sure does sound like a bad connection with your RCA cables.
( the signal is taking whatever ground-loop path it can find ) Easy enough to just try another RCA cable. Don't even bother routing it... just string it up real quick, and go for a drive. If it fixed it, then you can take the time to route the new cable properly.
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www.sonicelectronix.com for all your mobile audio needs! |
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#18 |
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This is the plan for the 5" balls, I did chop the left side and looks like it may work. The idea is to get the speakers as far apart from each other.
It's time to think about fiberglass and a-pillars, this is my first encounter with these materials, we'll see how it goes... ![]()
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