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05-21-2010, 03:10 PM | #55 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Well obviously for a Yaris for example you not going to use a I/C with 4" inlets & outlets with a core size of 30" wide by 16" high by 4" thick. A proper size I/C is key to making it a necessary addition to a turbo kit. Again there are no significant drawbacks to a properly installed I/C with the correct size I/C & piping.
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05-21-2010, 03:23 PM | #56 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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my i/c is pretty small and we are getting beautifully cold intake temps under high boost.
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05-23-2010, 11:33 PM | #57 |
Drives: car Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: location
Posts: 1,033
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I'm not getting why the xA kit with a modified downpipe is such a horrifying idea
If you think you can source a kit cheaper from independent sources that's understandable... If you're trying to avoid management like the devil, then I understand as well. But if you accept the fact that you need a tune, HKS is a proven company... |
05-24-2010, 12:06 AM | #58 |
JDM Fred
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HKS is good, but bot worth the extra $$$$... that HKS kit is mostly turbo, I'll take a Garrett turbo for half the cost. My next mods are diff, clutch, and flywheel on the car... then turbo. By that time Micro Image's kit will be ready, that or I've emailed Zage about buying a turbo kit w/o the turbo. If they say they will, I may buy the kit. Seeing as all I would need to do is buy, besides a Garett turbo, is a stock oil pan, tap it, then get an EMS, and a tune. I'd rather go with Micro Image's kit, figure less than 1k for manifold and down pipe, less than 1k for turbo and that gives me about 1-2k for the rest.
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1990 Mazda Miata... I miss my Yaris |
05-24-2010, 10:06 PM | #59 |
JDM Fred
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I'm really considering buying the zage turbo kit w/o the turbo:
"Normally we don't recommend doing so because every part of our turbo kit is designed to fit each other, so if you do not buy the turbo in the kit then you will have to do modification yourself, if you are installing them on 1NZ-FE engine. However, if you dont' mind doing the modification yourself our Yaris turbo kit would be USD$1000. " should I do it?
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1990 Mazda Miata... I miss my Yaris |
05-24-2010, 10:18 PM | #60 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Id suggest buy the kit as is. The worst that can happen is that the turbo has issues, nothing a rebuild cannot handle. You could always replace the insides of the Zage kit with Garrett internals. If you buy it without the turbo you have no choice but to use a GT25. Also dont even bother using their pan. If you want to save some $$ tell them to keep the oil pan. It does not work.
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05-24-2010, 10:35 PM | #61 |
JDM Fred
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yea I was thinking about not getting the pan too, it'll knock off $100. I only want to use a GT25. It's a daily driver and having 120whp would be amazing at this point, I can't imagine 140-150whp. I trust Garrett more though, so that will be my route if I get the Zage.
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1990 Mazda Miata... I miss my Yaris |
05-24-2010, 11:04 PM | #62 |
Drives: 2009 Toyota Yaris LE Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 84
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How much is the zage kit with everything?
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~ Currently Done: Apex'i N1 Evolution Axle-Back, Tanabe DF210, Drag DR-31 (Rally Bronze) Wrapped in BF Goodrich g-force Sports, held together with Red Works RS Lug Nuts. |
05-25-2010, 03:55 AM | #63 | |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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Quote:
Just curious about it ... |
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05-25-2010, 09:03 AM | #64 |
JDM Fred
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The kit costs about $1,800 shipped... but i'd rather spend $900 on a turbo $900 on a kit w/o turbo and pan and buy the res and still be under $3k. The only oil pan that looks decent is the Greddy and it's probably not worth the money.
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1990 Mazda Miata... I miss my Yaris |
05-25-2010, 10:24 AM | #65 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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The Zage kit pan is cast aluminum with cooling fins. It does not hold any more oil than the factory stamped steel pan. The pan fits but the oil drain position is completely wrong. It located towards the front of the car & does not drain correctly.
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05-27-2010, 08:38 PM | #66 |
Drives: car Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: location
Posts: 1,033
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thank god for product research
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05-27-2010, 09:11 PM | #67 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Actually its not research, I have the pan on my car. Took a chance & it did not result in anything good.
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05-28-2010, 07:41 PM | #68 | ||
Start another Oil Thread!
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Quote:
logic > product research
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Quote:
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05-30-2010, 03:45 PM | #69 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
Has anyone on YW purchased the entire kit yet and got it working? And if so, was there any fitment issues with piping/etc? (besides the crummy oil pan that is) BTW, if you go zage with a GT2554 and it works well, I'm totally going to copy you |
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05-30-2010, 07:36 PM | #70 |
JDM Fred
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I've read through a lot of material and actually found that that does work... however I would just weld a bung onto the stock oil pan and then for EMS, you are basically on your own. Greddy seems to be the best, from what I can see for EMS. Your other options are a stand alone EMS. With that you would have to completely remap and fine tune everything. I don't know If I'm even considering turbo with the FT-86 around the corner. It seems to have too much press to be put back any longer and by the time it comes out I will be turbo. Turbo or putting the money towards a 2nd car, the second car option seems to really make more sense. As much as I would like more power, it's a big decision, even If I am only looking at 3k with a tune.
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1990 Mazda Miata... I miss my Yaris |
05-30-2010, 07:43 PM | #71 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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05-31-2010, 12:38 AM | #72 | ||
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
Quote:
What piggyback are you using? |
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