GT17 too small?

[The Spectacle]

CDavis7M don't be afraid to state your opinion in here. After all, it is your opinion and you are entitled to it. You don't need experience with a turbo 1NZ-FE to know that 90% of what's been posted in this thread that didn't have my name on it is complete and utter bullshit. I'd start quoting posts, but I'm not that bored right now. But, here are some of the brilliant, insightful highlights:

- You can run the stock ECU up to 'x' psi and the car will be fine...with no intercooler
- The stock ECU retards timing in boost based off the knock sensor and thats safe up to 'x' psi
- The 1NZ-FE is one of the best hp/lb in the world (That one takes the fucking cake)
- Running bigger injectors is a fix action for running lean in boost
- Running meth is a great fix to reduce your knocking motor in boost. In fact, its pretty much all you need if you're knocking

This is been quite entertaining. Besides cali yaris, none of you guys have a fucking clue what you're talking about. I don't need to post up my 'creds' to prove I know what I'm talking about and I certainly don't have to have experience playing with a turbo Yaris to know that more than half of you are full of really, really stinky shit when it comes to forced induction.

I encourage anyone reading this that is on the fence about doing some of the absurdly retarded shit suggested in this thread is to do some research outside of yarisworld to get a good idea of how to turbo a N/A car. Among all the crazy shit in this thread that you shouldn't do, the NUMBER ONE thing NOT to do is run your car with a stock ecu without AT LEAST a piggyback or another (better) form of engine management. Just don't do it. Please.

[Morgan]

Originally Posted by The Spectacle

- Running meth is a great fix to reduce your knocking motor in boost. In fact, its pretty much all you need if you're knocking

"Knock" is a process where fuel combustion happens prior to ignition and is temperature and pressure based so by reducing ignition temps (water) and/or reducing the chances of preignition (methanol/higher octane fuel) it can indeed solve many minor to moderate knock issues. In addition to the yaris' keen ability to pull/retard timing at the drop of a hat, knock is almost inevitable in any FI application for this car, addressing it with water/meth and higher octane fuel is par for the course..... As noted in several threads in the FI forum, kthnxbyi

just to clarify if I used too many big words

please respect the hard work and dedication of the members who have tried and tested many different methods with the 1nz before posting like you know more than, what was it "98%" of us?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Morgan

"Knock" is a process where fuel combustion happens prior to ignition and is temperature and pressure based so by reducing ignition temps (water) and/or reducing the chances of preignition (methanol/higher octane fuel) it can indeed solve many minor to moderate knock issues. In addition to the yaris' keen ability to pull/retard timing at the drop of a hat, knock is almost inevitable in any FI application for this car, addressing it with water/meth and higher octane fuel is par for the course..... As noted in several threads in the FI forum, kthnxbyi

just to clarify if I used too many big words

please respect the hard work and dedication of the members who have tried and tested many different methods with the 1nz before posting like you know more than, what was it "98%" of us?

[hatchbackkid82]

Wow dude you just made your self seem like a total d*ck. Good job It's not what your saying, but your delivery as a whole is just wrong. People skills; get some please. Don't expect anyone on the forum to take you seriously now.

Originally Posted by The Spectacle

CDavis7M don't be afraid to state your opinion in here. After all, it is your opinion and you are entitled to it. You don't need experience with a turbo 1NZ-FE to know that 90% of what's been posted in this thread that didn't have my name on it is complete and utter bullshit. I'd start quoting posts, but I'm not that bored right now. But, here are some of the brilliant, insightful highlights:

- You can run the stock ECU up to 'x' psi and the car will be fine...with no intercooler
- The stock ECU retards timing in boost based off the knock sensor and thats safe up to 'x' psi
- The 1NZ-FE is one of the best hp/lb in the world (That one takes the fucking cake)
- Running bigger injectors is a fix action for running lean in boost
- Running meth is a great fix to reduce your knocking motor in boost. In fact, its pretty much all you need if you're knocking

This is been quite entertaining. Besides cali yaris, none of you guys have a fucking clue what you're talking about. I don't need to post up my 'creds' to prove I know what I'm talking about and I certainly don't have to have experience playing with a turbo Yaris to know that more than half of you are full of really, really stinky shit when it comes to forced induction.

I encourage anyone reading this that is on the fence about doing some of the absurdly retarded shit suggested in this thread is to do some research outside of yarisworld to get a good idea of how to turbo a N/A car. Among all the crazy shit in this thread that you shouldn't do, the NUMBER ONE thing NOT to do is run your car with a stock ecu without AT LEAST a piggyback or another (better) form of engine management. Just don't do it. Please.

[mikenacarato]

YW - 1 Testicle - 0

[Jeemee]

Damn guys, this has turned out to an all out flame fest.

[Nexus1155]

MIKE! i said no... LOL, but yeah this has turned out to an all out flame fest, when you can pull a 2.7T engine all by yourself and tune the ECU by yourself via benchflashing then come back to me

because honestly i could do Hondas all day and night, its crazy stuff like a huge Euro engines literally stuffed into the bay without a hand of space to move in that makes you a champ..... Up next 4.2TT RS6 Engine :) can't wait for this beast

I mean you might have credentials and everything and know alot, but please don't act like you are God himself, i mean Tamago does it to be cocky and he is a smart ass dude like he really knows his stuff, but everyone has their limits too which is what you gotta remember, i mean .... I can't weld... I know I can't so I don't even bother and bring it to a shop

[Nexus1155]

I'm hungover//////q

[Tamago]

well this thread is getting cleaned up... looks like it might as well be locked.

[mikenacarato]

IBFTL!!!!!

[The Spectacle]

Who is the douche that deleted my post about deleting my posts? The least you could do is man up and PM me.

[turboecho2005]

Originally Posted by The Spectacle

Who is the douche that deleted my post about deleting my posts? The least you could do is man up and PM me.

Did you learn anything about cars yet?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by PK198105

your screen name suits you 100%

he's making a himself of himself

[mikenacarato]

hahaha

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by The Spectacle

Real world experience with a boosted Yaris? NO.

Garm, I respect you on this site for your contributions so I won't be disrespectful to you like I would, say Poopy Peter or somebody else as stupid. But, on this subject I think you and anyone who thinks like you are just flat wrong. Spreading the message that adding forced induction without proper engine management to ANY car is ridiculous within itself, not to mention the fact that you're doing it on a car with a 10.5CR (or whatever it is) that was designed for fuel economy. I mean, at the VERY LEAST I would recommend at least doing a rising rate FMU and a map/maf clamp but even that is still a recipe for disaster in the long term. Just because you got away with it for "almost a year" doesn't make it safe. There are kids on this site that don't know any better and if they read a post that says "you can boost your Yaris to 7psi without any engine management" they'll go do it, blow their motors and come back and blame you instead of their own retardness. Boosting a N/A motor is hard enough with the proper components...but slapping on a turbo with no supporting mods? What about the effects on ignition timing? A/F ratio? Fuel pressure? EGT's? It goes on and on...

I'm all for doing stupid shit, but I draw the line when I see people (especially someone so key on this site like you) recommending to other people to do stupid shit.

can't do a rising rate


this is a returnless fuel system buddy ;)

buy a wideband, put in some larger injectors, and go to town. the car will take care of timing at 7psi.

[The Spectacle]

Originally Posted by Tamago

the car will take care of timing at 7psi.

Wait...what?


What?


There's so much wrong here I don't even know where to begin.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by The Spectacle

Wait...what?


What?


There's so much wrong here I don't even know where to begin.

YOU REALLY REALLY should just shut the F up at this point.

you don't understand in the LEAST how VVTi and knock sensors work, do you?

[The Spectacle]

Originally Posted by Tamago

YOU REALLY REALLY should just shut the F up at this point.

you don't understand in the LEAST how VVTi and knock sensors work, do you?

lol now this is getting fun...

So I bring up a valid point about timing and you're answer is to leave it to the knock sensor?? Seriously? So since I have no idea what I'm talking about, maybe you can explain what the ECU does when it detects knock. Pull timing right? Right...but how much? Until it stops knocking? Do you know how, pun intended, retarded that sounds? The knock sensor is designed to pull timing based on IAT's, variances in octane, and a few other factors...not to make up for not having the proper values in the timing map to reference in relation to positive pressure.

I'm going to pretend that you didn't mention VVTi seeing how it has no relevance here. But maybe you can explain that one too.