DIY: A/C Insulation - Page 7 - Toyota Yaris Forums

n00b · 07-08-2009, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry G.

Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C!
Try and argue that......
BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

If the goal is to get colder air, you want to insulate both if possible. From the pictures posted, it looks like you can insulate the high pressure line where the exaust manifold is (that would be an important place to insulate since it's so close to a heat source).

The high pressure line should not be hot (with the exception being the line from the compressor to the condenser) or that means your condenser is not cooling the refrigerant.

http://movacs.com/How%20it%20works/index.html

mikenacarato · 07-08-2009, 07:51 PM

n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

Henry G. · 07-08-2009, 08:16 PM

Good post and diagram PK.
I just decided with that roll of tape there I would finish the job and wrap everything on the big line (notice I'm staying out of the technical argument by not naming it):

Wrapped the "can" portion of the line by taking two pieces of equal length insulation and doing the zip tie/tape thing.

Did the piece of line that runs against the inner fender, kind of a pain. I found the trick was to cut the piece to the right length, take it back off, install 2 already looped(just barely so as to leave the maximum room) on the pipe, put the insulation back on then wiggle the zip tie loops over either ends and then tighten them.

After that section this one was easy, I used tape again even though I dont think heat is a concern way up front but because I figure the engine bay heat in general is likely to harden the zip ties quickly making them brittle and breaking them, so the tape was more of a securing thing.

And this pic is from under the car, this section of pipe is easier to do most of the work from under the car believe it or not. Same thing zip tie and tape.

EasyDriver · 07-08-2009, 11:01 PM

How you ever managed to get zip ties in the area near the alternator (picture 2) is beyond me! I tried and tried to do that, but couldn't get it done. Or, maybe my patience just ran out!

texkid · 07-09-2009, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EasyDriver

How you ever managed to get zip ties in the area near the alternator (picture 2) is beyond me! I tried and tried to do that, but couldn't get it done. Or, maybe my patience just ran out!

Patience and a needle nose pliers to use as my second fingers. But mainly patience.

n00b · 07-08-2009, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

To answer your's and PK198105's question of driving a Yaris, I do not. I drive an Echo (which has crappier a/c than the Yaris).

I don't feel like posting in the welcome forum. I've never done that on any of the forums I am a member of.

Sodium Duck · 07-08-2009, 08:39 PM

Hence your user name... newbert.

talnlnky · 07-08-2009, 08:54 PM

you all make this way too hard.

1)The cooler the hot side, the cooler the cold side, which means the cooler the air will be.

2)The cooler you can keep the cold side before it reaches the cabin, also the cooler your air will be.

The high temp loam plus high temp/fire retardant foam is what I would use too. That, or I think i've seen hi-temp split rubber tubing before.

b_hickman11 · 07-08-2009, 09:11 PM

Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

n00b · 07-08-2009, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b_hickman11

Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

mikenacarato · 07-09-2009, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n00b

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

evap core freezing up......

mikenacarato · 07-09-2009, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

that would be the case if we insulate the HIGH PRESSURE line.

the compressor might not have to work so hard, neither your fan so i would say that long term effects would be beneficial.

ah, well then ill take your work on it. i have some heat shielding tape im going to use i just wanted to make sure the core wouldnt freeze.

EasyDriver · 07-09-2009, 09:47 AM

If anyone is concerned about the core freezing up....simply don't cover the entire line. It won't be as cold in the cabin, but you don't have to worry about it. If you covered the entire line, like I did, all you have to do is remove some of the insulation and the problem is solved.

n00b · 07-09-2009, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PK198105

wikipedia told you this?

Thanks, I'm done with this forum. I'll let you believe 2+2=5.

b_hickman11 · 07-09-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n00b

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

How many years have you had this mod?

MadMax · 07-10-2009, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b_hickman11

How many years have you had this mod?

That's the rub, no one has had this done on their cars for more than a couple of weeks; so if there are any adverse long-term effects, no one knows!

I might be crazy, but I simply never run the a/c in my Yaris even with the triple-digit temps we've been having for the past month or so. I also drive an open Jeep, so maybe I am used to it, or I've killed all the brain cells that would've told me I am nuts; but since I most drive on freeways without a lot of stops on my commute, the two windows down method keeps me comfortable enough...and it sure feels great when I walk into the air conditioned house!

Cheers! M2

b_hickman11 · 07-10-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMax

That's the rub, no one has had this done on their cars for more than a couple of weeks; so if there are any adverse long-term effects, no one knows!

I might be crazy, but I simply never run the a/c in my Yaris even with the triple-digit temps we've been having for the past month or so. I also drive an open Jeep, so maybe I am used to it, or I've killed all the brain cells that would've told me I am nuts; but since I most drive on freeways without a lot of stops on my commute, the two windows down method keeps me comfortable enough...and it sure feels great when I walk into the air conditioned house!

Cheers! M2

I already knew the answer to the question. I was just trying to figure out how he knew that there were NO longterm effects.....

CTScott · 07-08-2009, 09:38 PM

It shouldn't cause any issues. Normally with an AC system you insulate the suction side if the system is cooling only, and both suction and discharge if it is a reverse cycle system (i.e heat pump).

The Yaris's AC amplifier (ecu for the AC system) has temperature and pressure sensors to keep it from killing the compressor if the coils freeze up. Also, I don't think that this could cause the system to suddenly become so efficient that it can't dehumidify the air before reaching the desired inside temp (like a severely over-sized central air system in a house). I haven't seen the inside of the airbox, but the mold and stink issue is probably being caused by the condensate not properly draining (or maybe soaking into an insulation material within the box). This could explain why the TSB involves replacing the airbox.

07-08-2009, 08:39 PM	#7
Sodium Duck ╚══════════RN Drives: 2008 Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Mass. Posts: 999	Hence your user name... newbert. __________________ 42.88

07-08-2009, 08:54 PM	#8
talnlnky Audio Junky Drives: 08 liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Spokane, Wa Posts: 1,412	you all make this way too hard. 1)The cooler the hot side, the cooler the cold side, which means the cooler the air will be. 2)The cooler you can keep the cold side before it reaches the cabin, also the cooler your air will be. The high temp loam plus high temp/fire retardant foam is what I would use too. That, or I think i've seen hi-temp split rubber tubing before. __________________

07-09-2009, 09:47 AM	#13
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	evap core.... If anyone is concerned about the core freezing up....simply don't cover the entire line. It won't be as cold in the cabin, but you don't have to worry about it. If you covered the entire line, like I did, all you have to do is remove some of the insulation and the problem is solved.

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07-08-2009, 07:51 PM	#2
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

07-08-2009, 08:16 PM	#3
Henry G. Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009 Location: So Cal. Posts: 100	Good post and diagram PK. I just decided with that roll of tape there I would finish the job and wrap everything on the big line (notice I'm staying out of the technical argument by not naming it): Wrapped the "can" portion of the line by taking two pieces of equal length insulation and doing the zip tie/tape thing. Did the piece of line that runs against the inner fender, kind of a pain. I found the trick was to cut the piece to the right length, take it back off, install 2 already looped(just barely so as to leave the maximum room) on the pipe, put the insulation back on then wiggle the zip tie loops over either ends and then tighten them. After that section this one was easy, I used tape again even though I dont think heat is a concern way up front but because I figure the engine bay heat in general is likely to harden the zip ties quickly making them brittle and breaking them, so the tape was more of a securing thing. And this pic is from under the car, this section of pipe is easier to do most of the work from under the car believe it or not. Same thing zip tie and tape.

07-08-2009, 11:01 PM	#4
EasyDriver Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Southern Michigan Posts: 61	How you ever managed to get zip ties in the area near the alternator (picture 2) is beyond me! I tried and tried to do that, but couldn't get it done. Or, maybe my patience just ran out!

07-08-2009, 09:11 PM	#9
b_hickman11 Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 899	Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

07-08-2009, 09:38 PM	#18
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	It shouldn't cause any issues. Normally with an AC system you insulate the suction side if the system is cooling only, and both suction and discharge if it is a reverse cycle system (i.e heat pump). The Yaris's AC amplifier (ecu for the AC system) has temperature and pressure sensors to keep it from killing the compressor if the coils freeze up. Also, I don't think that this could cause the system to suddenly become so efficient that it can't dehumidify the air before reaching the desired inside temp (like a severely over-sized central air system in a house). I haven't seen the inside of the airbox, but the mold and stink issue is probably being caused by the condensate not properly draining (or maybe soaking into an insulation material within the box). This could explain why the TSB involves replacing the airbox.