I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Bluevitz-rs]

I don't know your process for mounting the oil pan but here's how they should normaly go on...

1. clean everything with a clean rag and make sure there is no oil were the silicone will seat.

2. lay a bead around the pan about 1/8" thick making sure you go all the way around the bolt holes.

3. when assembling, only snug the bolts enough to start pressing the silicone out the side.

4. let dry.

5. tighten the bolts to spec. (probably around 15-20 ft/lbs. not very tight)

Even if the pan is warped it should still seal with the method.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Parmas

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

[coheed]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

No a timer is not necessary if its water cooled. I would still let it idle about minute/ minute and a half before cutting it off. But thats just me, I'd rather be safe then sorry.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

Not sure what you mean here. What happened? How many times did you crank it and for how long at each interval? Its an important step considering how fast the turbo is gonna spin at startup with no oil. Did the oil not get tru the lines?

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.


I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

I am not sure what you need to say with this sentence. There is no way the engine is flooding with fuel with the injector plugs pulled out unless:

1. The engine is already flooded with fuel with the previous cranking of course with the plugs connected.

2. If the plugs are replaced to colder side ones because of turbo, it is normal that engine do not start immediately or else the same like when you had the stock plugs. If the plugs are replaced, use the stock plugs to ensure good startup and then change them later. The important thing is not to drive with boost on stock plugs.

3. Plugs could be wet with fuel effecting spark. Remove and clean all 4 with a wire brush in the meantime check the plug gap is within tolerance.

There could be more reasons but one of these should solve the problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things.

Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged.

The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds.

Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see.

So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though.

Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly.

[Yoda]

keep on keeping on... you almost there

[Nexus1155]

Start the freakin car! I did not & have never primed a turbo

We have and have known people who have started a car without priming the car and they ruined the turbo or blew seals, if you drain the oil, it doesnt instanly just get oil. It takes a little bit to get up to the turbo. It makes sense doesn't it? Oil doesn't just shoot up there at lightning speed. Some places even prefill there turbos with fluid just so it is lubricated when you install it, most just come dry as a bone.

Another way to do it is to remove the connectors to the ECU and it won't start just crank.

Usually smoke burning off is also from working on the hot area with oil or another substance on your hand needs to burn off, but like someone said it could be header wrap or paint too. ( Well I wrote that for nothing since I just read the last part of your post lol)

Glad to see its working well for you :D

[cali yaris]

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I definitely agree with priming ANY turbo. It's easy to do and there's a million ways to do it, so why not?

Nexus, reading your post reminded me of something interesting I noticed when I first inspected the turbo. I think Zage sent me a "pre-primed" turbocharger. There was oil on it, and at the time I immediately dismissed it because I thought it had simply come off my hands. Eh, doesn't matter now.

Current progress: all coolant leaks are sealed. Have a very slight leak coming from the banjo bolt that I resealed again, so that should be covered. The return flange on the turbo is leaking quite a bit of oil though... Will address that tomorrow... er, later.

Oh and also... My CEL disappeared, once again. So it was probably that supposed TB code I seem to get every time the ECU is reset. Should be interesting to see if I get another one when I start driving around.

Originally Posted by cali yaris

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

Man did I earn it.

[Nexus1155]

Yeah man, why not take precautions? Honestly. It's a car, what can go wrong will go wrong. In the S4 I need to take the engine out to swap turbos, and the lines need to be in specific places or they will melt from excessive heat. It's little things like priming the turbos gives peace of mind not having to go through BS removing and installing them again. I just ran without a cluster to see if it will work and run, apparently my oil pressure was low, no cluster, no lights. KNOCK KNOCK KABOOM goes one of my rods.

Yeah, the turbos usually have little caps on them, one time one was full of oil and just spilled all over my lap.

-_- the coolant line you JB Welded? Is the oil return gasketed?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Still (patiently) battling an oil leak from the turbo. I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from... There's definitely a small leak at the least from the banjo bolt, but I still don't know about the return flange. I've used like half a tube of JB Weld at this point lol... I think the problem is the leak is in a spot that I can't reach.

And yes, the oil return has some sort of gasket.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Where is it that you are using the JB Weld? If it for the fittings you problem lies there. JB Weld is not intended for that use...

I'm trying to seal the edges of the fittings. I know it isn't exactly how it's supposed to be used, but it has worked.

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket. It's the only thing that makes sense at the moment... I made sure all my seals were VERY tight.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I'm trying to seal the edges of the fittings. I know it isn't exactly how it's supposed to be used, but it has worked.

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket. It's the only thing that makes sense at the moment... I made sure all my seals were VERY tight.

VERY is NOT always good for seals. An example of an oil filter VERY tightened will probably if not sure that you blow your seal and leaks almost immidiately with no pressure at all.

Just a hint!

[cali yaris]

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket.

I doubt it. I had a return line on my tC that was too small and would back up. The oil would back up into the turbo and cause smoke. Definitely didn't blow any seals, there isn't any pressure in the return line. I'm pretty sure it just gravity feeds down to the pan, right?