Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[sqcomp]

I'm running 12 gauge street wires to all my speakers. The reason? To support the lines my shop sells. No more than that.

The S2b amps are a true 450 x 2 which is great for headroom and dynamic transients. The S4b is rated At 120 x 2 and 240 x 2. This kicks up the tweeters and mid range speakers and gives good headroom as well. I'm not using the amp's onboard crossover which is really nice.

Eventually I'll be moving to a new "brand" of amplifier in a few years. It's being designed right now and has to go through the entire manufacturing process. Think Genesis dual mono extreme WITHOUT the crossovers or anything that will change the signal aside from amplification. We're going for a true, unfettered amplifier. We may also be thinking about class A as well. There's so much more to say...

And D, I'll be putting up more pictures of the panel. No worries.

[_S7V7N_]

Sq how do you have your gains set on the amp ? Here's a few questions :

Voltage of your rear outputs on your Deck (I think they're 5 V )
RMS of your Legatia's
RMS of any other speakers/subs

I guess what i'm asking is do you have your amp set to the voltage your stereo puts out.

Maybe it's the old school way of doing it but please help me better understand.

If you're deck puts out 5V's is that the max you want your amp (Level on the amp below ) ? Or is it all done by ear ?

[sqcomp]

I'm setup a little differently than the average system. My head unit puts out an unclipped signal of 4.99 Volts at maximum output on the volume pot. I keep my volume pot at maximum output (62 on the deck's readout). That gives me as much fire going down the lines as possible. The signal then goes to my Bit One (soon to be PS8). The processor then takes it and has a field day. The signal voltage then gets sent to the amplifiers. Both the processor and the amplifiers have clipping indicators (on the GUI and side of the amp respectively).

I take a 1 kHz tone at 0dB and blast it though the chain (no speakers on the amps). It take an o-scope and read at each point, all the source outs, processor ins, and the amplifier ins for a smooth sine wave. From the sine wave reading kn the scope I move up on the amp gains since I start with the gains all the way down. I go until I see clipping and then back it down until I see a smooth wave.

Why the test tone? It's a mean tone at the highest output level I can get off the information on a CD. That means I play it safe and never have any clipping no matter how loud. Therefore, I don't need to spend the time and money with constructing tweeter protection or launching speakers into outer space.

It works for me. :)

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Therefore, I don't need to spend the time and money with constructing tweeter protection or launching speakers into outer space.

It works for me. :)

Stop right there, I'm lost!

Honestly my knowledge doesn't goes that far, sounds very cool in white and black, and I bet it will sound much better behind the steering wheel.

I hope some day I get to travel a-x the country and have a chance to learn all that!

I will appreciate if you post more pictures of the grills for your LOWS in the doors. I just can't come up with an easy/nice solution.

D.

[sqcomp]

^I must apologize to Derick. I'm sort of piggybacking my experience in the Yaris with his thread.

I found that If I had my own thread I received too much naysaying. "Too expensive" this and "Your doing things wrong" that...

as for this thread being a "whole nother level", I say take what Derick and I are doing, ask LOTS of questions and go and do likewise (as in your own little projects).

@ Derick - I've actually got the trim ring blending onto the panel right now. It's down in the garage curing with a space heater close to it. Tomorrow night I'll finish up the rough blend. On Saturday I'll remove the piece, trim it down and then prep it for paint. Once it's painted I'll permanently attach it to the panel.

Don't worry, I'll give you full pics and explain the process. Until I'm done, here's a teaser:

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

^I must apologize to Derick. I'm sort of piggybacking my experience in the Yaris with his thread.

No apologize here, you are more than welcome, and look at it this way, we want you to post here, please!

D.

[NHYarisFan]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

.
as for this thread being a "whole nother level", I say take what Derick and I are doing, ask LOTS of questions and go and do likewise (as in your own little projects).
]

Well when i first saw this post i loved it. very detailed with everything gave me lots of good ideas

so that's why Next level from me anyway! keep it up

[derickveliz2]

Well we learn something every day, and I wanted to share with you:

For me it's tuning time and I love it, what a nice experience going through all the variables and learning what does what. Last week my LOWS (HAT L6s in OEM location in doors running from 63Hz to 160Hz or so) got disconnected so I had the chance to drive without LOWS.... for a while

Just before that I wanted to play a little with my Woofer settings because for some reason the lower frequencies stage was kind of leaning towards the right side of the car (what I mean here is that the "BEAT" from drums for example couldn't feel it symmetrically speaking), in my mind I thought it was the Woofer enclosure that fires up front slightly on the right side of the car. But when I was without LOWS my lower frequencies stage was perfect, right from the center of the dashboard and not leaning towards the right side. So now I knew it wasn't the upfront woofer causing this, the LOWS are the issue.

After fixing the LOWs I looked for some pink noise, the lowest I had available that day was 200Hz and started playing with Time Alignment (T/A) this is how I can control when the signal from each speaker gets to my ears, the idea is to delay left side and speed up the right side, and fool my brain like if I was exactly in the middle of the speakers. By pure experimenting changing these parameters I was able to move the stage from side to side, I did isolate the LOWs, it's like magic. At the end of the day the BEAT (low frequencies) was right in the center, at the beginning I thought that the song had recorded towards the right side the drums, but it was constant in various songs, it wasn't the woofer, it was the LOWs, many thanks to technology for providing us the tools.

D.

[sqcomp]

Make it a spring meet, take lots of pictures!

[_S7V7N_]

Loll SQ you get quite a bit of attention on a few forums. I was looking up the MB Quart amplifiers and ran into a post where they were saying your DD's weren't good enough to compete against some Macs. Some people just can't ever say good job or hell of a set up. You kinda have the trophies to back your stuff up !!

[derickveliz2]

Sqcomp...
Remember the song... Fiesta De Montunos by Patato & the Enriquillo Winds

Just for fun...
I mute the Sub and the LOWs and the track still sounds amazing!!!
I didn't know my Mids+Tweets could sound so good just by them selfs, and yes...
my mids start at 160 Hz all the way up to 10 kHz Tweeters pick up at 8 kHz and up

Try it and let us know...

Just for the record...
" This one plays percussion of several different types along with woodwind saxophones and a flute. It's a very natural and great soundstage stretch. It's obviously recorded "Live". You can hear all the idiosyncrasies of the players." sqcomp

D.

[sqcomp]

I recall that thread regarding the DD amps not being good enough. IIRC, I'm the one that walked into the Western Canadian regionals, first time competing, with a half built system, and took first place in IASCA's Amateur class. What in my mind, what separated amplifiers is the signal path (how unfettered it is or isn't), build quality, and input quality. There are a lot of other little variables that fall into those categories that we all think about.

Derick, imagine what you could do with an all SE lineup? :) Picture to follow...



F#1 7990
with JL Slash V2 series amps and an L8SE, L1ProSE R2 two way in a 1988 T-Bird. This is Drew Snapp's bird. He and I competed against each other in the Western Finals. Great guy. Now he's looking at being on Team Hybrids.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Derick, imagine what you could do with an all SE lineup? :)

Mmm... It would be like a humid dream for an Audio Enthusiast!


D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

F#1 7990
with JL Slash V2 series amps and an L8SE, L1ProSE R2 two way in a 1988 T-Bird. This is Drew Snapp's bird. He and I competed against each other in the Western Finals. Great guy. Now he's looking at being on Team Hybrids.

I would like to see behind the L8SEs, and did you get a chance to sit on the both seats? how comfortable or uncomfortable was it?

D.

[Spidermandud]

DO WANT

[sqcomp]

Ask away on the construction of the enclosures. I know how he did them.

I sat in both seats. You notice the picture? That was me in the driver's seat with legs all the way out. He competes in the IASCA Pro class now. He's extended his seat rails for more stage depth.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Ask away on the construction of the enclosures. I know how he did them.

I sat in both seats. You notice the picture? That was me in the driver's seat with legs all the way out. He competes in the IASCA Pro class now. He's extended his seat rails for more stage depth.

Do the seats all the way back makes this car a "none" commuter?

I mean can you still drive it like that?

D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Ask away on the construction of the enclosures. I know how he did them.

I sat in both seats. You notice the picture? That was me in the driver's seat with legs all the way out. He competes in the IASCA Pro class now. He's extended his seat rails for more stage depth.

And how good is it?

D.