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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 White Toyota Yaris Type S Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 439
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That high pitched noise, is it a metal on metal sound? do you hear it constantly? do you hear it every 1 wheel rotation? do you hear it when the cars running only, or in gear as well? Some of those answers may help.
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#2 |
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Mada Mada Dane...
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i believe it is only coming from the passenger side. its a very high pitched squeak that happens when the car is moving slow either in drive or reverse. when i get to higher speeds the sound stops. i dont know how to describe the sound. it is very very high pitched and loud sounding almost like a car with bad power steering.
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
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See if you bent your dust cover while working that side. You may have bent it just enough to be touching the rotor slighty.
Im thinking here... im thinking... hummm... Your belts are all on the passenger side as well.. |
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#4 |
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Mada Mada Dane...
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ill have to wait until 2morrow to diagnose the problem, thanks for the info.
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#5 |
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Mada Mada Dane...
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problem fixed!!! the dust guard was rubbing against the rotor just as Chris had predicted!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! |
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#6 |
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Lonesome Cowboy
Drives: 2007 WHITE HATCHBACK Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Inner City, Dallas
Posts: 2,995
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Chris is the MAN.
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#7 |
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Super Moderator
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Glad to help, and glad it was something simple to fix.
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 White Toyota Yaris Type S Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 439
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glad you got it fixed. I had that same problem on my brothers older accord. It was just so old and the metal got so flimsy that I just took it off. It was a very annoying sound, that I do remember.
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#9 |
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I've made a post!
Drives: Black SandPearl Sedan Join Date: May 2007
Location: RI
Posts: 1
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DIY
Thanks, great instructions.
I used Sprint performance springs (claimed 1.75 inch drop) and the car actually rides better than before. I will post pic soon. |
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#10 |
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DIY was a great help. just a note' i found using a deep offset box end wrench worked very well for the removal of the strut tower bolt.
Thanks, B. |
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#11 |
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I would agree with that if only I could find a shop that sold them I have checked everywhere around here. Freakin newbie I thought that would be an easy tool to find.
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Absolutely Red Liftback Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 570
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Quote:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfno.0 |
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#13 |
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Super Moderator
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#14 |
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Clean and (dis)Functional
Drives: Yaris 2dr--Black Betty Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tropical Minnesota
Posts: 562
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I welded a rod onto the side (towards the top) of a cheap socket and it worked fine. Just gotta have a cheap welder!
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____________ Old School Cobble Jockey
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#15 |
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I mean I could use one but I got my springs installed so I am good.
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: LB-Auto-PWR-ABS-Cruise-Springs Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,065
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Hey Chris07LB, you should put in your required tool the Spring Compressor. If someone (complete noob) tries to do it without one, they will get one hell of a suprise and maybe a trip to the hospital. Just my 2 cents.
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Other car is a 2005 Mustang Convertible 4.0L V6 Manual - Legend Lime Get YarAss in gear! RIP - Casey Tatum |
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#17 |
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Super Moderator
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You should read the DIY again.. its not only shown in the pics, but also mentioned a few times.
This is only a "guide" to help with the install/removel process. |
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#18 |
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Lonesome Cowboy
Drives: 2007 WHITE HATCHBACK Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Inner City, Dallas
Posts: 2,995
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I think he's trying to call you a NOOB KILLER, Chris.
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