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Old 04-18-2009, 12:47 AM   #1
kurokoma-kun
 
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FINALLY getting my gauges installed! Here's how they look in the mounting plate I made from some copper sheet--it took a little fitting but the lid to the compartment does close completely, and I get to keep the little rack on the left for car wash quarters! I'll be finishing the electrical wiring tomorrow (forgot I needed inline fuses ).

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Old 04-18-2009, 12:50 AM   #2
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So you plan on driving with the compartment open?
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Old 04-18-2009, 12:55 AM   #3
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So you plan on driving with the compartment open?
yes.... and closing it when I go to get my emissions test done just one reason for concealing the gauges. The open lid doesn't block the view in any way, and isn't all that visible from the outside either
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:02 AM   #4
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nice nice. what colors do yours light up? red?

I am putting my gauges and wiring them up tomorrow too! We should have some nice pics for people tomorrow.
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:07 AM   #5
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Yup red, though I kinda wish for blue now! Can't to see yours
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:19 AM   #6
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I just got a cool data logger to replace my ScanGauge. I hope to post something by tonight.
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:19 AM   #7
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What about info on your bigger injectors experience that was suppose to happen today?

EDIT: I'm a newb. Sorry didn't see your thread on it already. Doh!


*I'll have pics of my gauges in place (not wired) up soon too!
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
Cali yaris got in contact with blitz and blitz said the fuel controller is just that and does not do anything to timing. Noogie thinks the timing is being retarding because the knock sensor is picking up pre ignition.
Is the black box wired to the boost control knob? If so then the boost selection could retart the timing.

If not, then he could be right. I have a knockbox that we could listen to the engine with and see if it is indeed knocking.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:51 PM   #9
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Is the black box wired to the boost control knob? If so then the boost selection could retart the timing.

If not, then he could be right. I have a knockbox that we could listen to the engine with and see if it is indeed knocking.
Where in the OC are you? If I don't chicken out due to this AFR, I might just run into you at Willow Springs on April 10. You can see what the car is doing on and off boost.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:57 PM   #10
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Where in the OC are you? If I don't chicken out due to this AFR, I might just run into you at Willow Springs on April 10. You can see what the car is doing on and off boost.
Irvine area.

I still need to confirm I can go and get signed up for the 10th.
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:00 PM   #11
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What are the pinouts for the black box and does it connect to the boost switch? my guess is yes.

The next step is who is brave enough to disconnect a couple wires and find out exactly what the black box does :)
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:36 PM   #12
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OK I found the pinouts for the black box. It just connect to fuel related components. We will have to do some data logging to see why the car is pulling timing under boost.

Long,

If you can, warm up your car and do a couple pulls in 2nd or 3rd.

Then pull the negative battery connector, or pull the fuse to the ECU. Pump the brakes a few times and reconnect the fuse or battery.

Go out and do another couple pulls and see if the timing you see increases, or increases and then decreases. Let us know the differences.
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:05 AM   #13
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What would happen if someone were to add an intercooler to this set up. What if the pre-ignition is not being caused by the octane but by heat created from the forced induction? I know a lot of people say that an intercooler is not necessary on the blitz but anyone that owns a blitz that has touched the intake pipe on a summer day after driving knows it will burn the shit out you.

With that being said what would be needed to add an air to air intercooler to this set up? Is it even possible? Would it even be feasible?
Horribly expensive and probably not feasible with the blitz kit (or ANY roots style supercharger kit). At 5-7 PSI an intercooler is not really needed.

You would be better off spending money on a way to tune the car.
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:05 PM   #14
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Oh i know, thanks! I want to buy that one yarisdarkness is parting out but I think he's still organizing prices and so forth... if I dont hear soon I already have one picked out on ebay.

The NST pullies are still in the R+D phase anyway, I talked it over with Garm before this thread came up, so I plan to continue gathering info and insights before committing to anything.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:27 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by camelll View Post
the car should have come from the factory with the power the blitz puts out
WORD

Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
glad I got the oil catch.
Where did mount yours? Is there an ideal spot? Saw the pic of staypuft's on the battery, but I have so much room up in front of the CAI... is that too far for the hose to reach the pcv valve?
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:39 PM   #16
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It was just a nasty hodgepodge of shit and I still cannot get that smell out of my nose.
niiiiiiiice, and that shyt is goin down my intake track?

No idea what I'll see since 5000 mi. I been on full synthetic, changed every 5k. At almost 40k now with some 3500 on the charger, I hope mine won't be so disgusting

The DIY can in the link is very compact, its clever also, but I think I'll just get a cheap metal one, I've been on a chrome kick lately
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:05 PM   #17
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Noogie when you are in open loop are you still seeing the lean condition? I do not go into open loop right away it takes a little bit, even at wot but if I keep on it it goes into open loop and then I see the 11-12's on the wideband. When I am on the interstate about 80 mph and not boosting I see around stoich but as soon as I step on it and enter boost I instantly go into open loop and get good a/f readings even if I am only boosting at like 1 psi.
Yes, I believe that I am in open loop at the time. I may have to make a run tonight just to make sure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
Another question I have for you is do you have a wire on your fmu going to C20-81 I was looking at 1.4 updated wiring diagram and it does not show anything going to that location and my 1.1 shows it being rpm signal.
I can't find my wiring diagram and I can't read this image. Can you point out C20-81? I'm wired this way.

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