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Old 03-23-2010, 06:00 AM   #1
stvee
 
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Parts are pretty close and I'm still trying to get up the nerve to do this myself.

Could you be a little more specific about being careful with the clockspring? From this thread it looks like the biggest concerns would be not spinning the clockspring and not damaging the wires coming out of it. What else do I need to look out for?

All this cause I don't want to pay a guy a hundred and fifty bucks.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:59 AM   #2
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Parts are pretty close and I'm still trying to get up the nerve to do this myself.

Could you be a little more specific about being careful with the clockspring? From this thread it looks like the biggest concerns would be not spinning the clockspring and not damaging the wires coming out of it. What else do I need to look out for?

All this cause I don't want to pay a guy a hundred and fifty bucks.
Those are the main concerns. Also, the clockspring's plastic is somewhat fragile, so just be careful not to smack it while working around the steering column with the wheel removed.
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:57 AM   #3
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Well, in as much as I didn't ruin the steering wheel, clockspring, horn, or airbag, it went ok. Getting nothing out of the cruise, though. Was I supposed to have the power package or something? Boy I feel terrible.

Automatic 09 sedan and this guy.

CTScott, you've been incredibly kind.
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:18 AM   #4
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Well, in as much as I didn't ruin the steering wheel, clockspring, horn, or airbag, it went ok. Getting nothing out of the cruise, though. Was I supposed to have the power package or something? Boy I feel terrible.

Automatic 09 sedan and this guy.

CTScott, you've been incredibly kind.

On the connector at the other end of the clock spring (the one on the bottom of the steering column) does your sedan have the blue and brown wires, or just the black wire?

Some of the 09 sedans have the wiring from the ECM to that connector, others do not (and hence you have to run the wire from the connector to the ECM poin 40). All 09 LBs had that wire run, but not all Sedans.
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:39 PM   #5
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Took off steering column cover and I've got one black wire. Still calling this a win if I don't have to take the steering wheel off anymore.

So two wires where the blue and brown ones would be. Which one goes where? All the crosstalk between autos and manuals and stalks and switches has jellied my brain. Should I switch to PM or something? I'm feeling less potentially instructive by the minute.

Last edited by stvee; 03-28-2010 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:22 AM   #6
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Took off steering column cover and I've got one black wire. Still calling this a win if I don't have to take the steering wheel off anymore.

So two wires where the blue and brown ones would be. Which one goes where? All the crosstalk between autos and manuals and stalks and switches has jellied my brain. Should I switch to PM or something? I'm feeling less potentially instructive by the minute.
The Blue is the wire that needs to be run to the ECM. The brown is a ground.



In this thread, I have the part numbers for the pins for that connector:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+cruise
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:03 PM   #7
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We are talking about the connector furthest left of that picture, right? I ordered two spiral connector repair terminals and one ecm repair terminal. The connector in the ecm repair terminal looked like a perfect fit for the ones in the steering column. Should I go for two more of those or do I have the wrong connector?
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:18 PM   #8
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We are talking about the connector furthest left of that picture, right? I ordered two spiral connector repair terminals and one ecm repair terminal. The connector in the ecm repair terminal looked like a perfect fit for the ones in the steering column. Should I go for two more of those or do I have the wrong connector?
Yes - Left most connector. The pins are slightly different for the ECM and the spiral cable connector. The part numbers are listed in this thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ght=diy+cruise
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Old 11-26-2010, 07:30 PM   #9
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Reusing the chutch switch to turn off the cruise

Guys,

I had I idea, and i need your opinion before trying it.

The yellow wire on the clutch switch that blocks the start (i am talking about the one on the bottom, not the additional we should add to stop the cruise), has normally (when released) 12V, high impedance (my guess is a pull up resistor inside the ECU). when pressed (the clutch needs to go to the bottom), that line goes near 0V (pulled down by the starter relay coil).

What if we sense that in order to stop the cruise? For example, a mosfet transistor will do the job perfectly.

The problem: the cruise will disable ONLY if the clutch is COMPLETELY pressed. What will happen during the clutch travel?
Cheers!
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Old 11-26-2010, 08:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by yarismadness View Post
Guys,

I had I idea, and i need your opinion before trying it.

The yellow wire on the clutch switch that blocks the start (i am talking about the one on the bottom, not the additional we should add to stop the cruise), has normally (when released) 12V, high impedance (my guess is a pull up resistor inside the ECU). when pressed (the clutch needs to go to the bottom), that line goes near 0V (pulled down by the starter relay coil).

What if we sense that in order to stop the cruise? For example, a mosfet transistor will do the job perfectly.

The problem: the cruise will disable ONLY if the clutch is COMPLETELY pressed. What will happen during the clutch travel?
Cheers!
I'm not an expert but I'm pretty sure the engine will rev up. disengaging the clutch will slow the car, which the ecu will see and will give it more gas to try to maintain speed. most of the time you do not floor the clutch (which would be required for this to disengage the cruise). I personally would not like this solution...
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:39 PM   #11
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^Exactly. The starting clutch switch and the cruise clutch switch have exactly opposite purposes. The starting one is a "safety" which wants to see the clutch fully depressed and the cruise one cancels cruise mode to prevent revving as soon as the clutch is touched. The OEM clutch switch is under $20, so it's really not worth looking for an alternative solution.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:46 PM   #12
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How is everyone running the wire from D3 to the ECM connector A21?
Last night I tried to follow the conduit of wires running from the ECM in the engine bay without much luck. I didn't want to have to rip apart the engine bay to find out where it goes. I really feel like I'm missing something silly!
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:29 PM   #13
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How is everyone running the wire from D3 to the ECM connector A21?
Last night I tried to follow the conduit of wires running from the ECM in the engine bay without much luck. I didn't want to have to rip apart the engine bay to find out where it goes. I really feel like I'm missing something silly!
The easiest way is to enter the rubber grommet above the ECM or the one below it (which is actually the grommet around the AC drain hose). Then, once you are through the firewall on the passenger side, you can bring the wire across to the driver's side.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:14 PM   #14
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Would I be able to fit cruise control to my Yaris using the same method? I have a 2001 5door hatchback...
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:28 PM   #15
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Would I be able to fit cruise control to my Yaris using the same method? I have a 2001 5door hatchback...
No. 1999-2005 Yaris used a cable throttle, rather than an electronic one like 2006 and newer ones have. So, 1st gen Yaris require an electro-mechanical cruise control system.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:17 AM   #16
Paulee
 
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U got a hatch or sedan? Next chance i get i check for the plug
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:17 AM   #17
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U got a hatch or sedan? Next chance i get i check for the plug
Sedan.
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:04 PM   #18
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got my CC installed today and loving it. Best $20 I spent. Still haven't got the clutch switch kit yet so had to jump the connector for it to work and yes, the revs jump when u step on the clutch with the cruise set. overall pretty simple install tho.
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