How to diy ac belt - Page 3 - Toyota Yaris Forums

othater · 02-23-2012, 11:42 PM

I replaced the belt going on 6 months.
Had to tighten the belt at least 5 times due to screeching.
Seems like the belt stretches a little every time.
(I marked the original location of the bolt)
Belt looks good, maybe this Dayco is just cheap or defective.
Probably will see if I can return it under warranty.

Are the gates any better or just go get the OEM from the dealer (on-line)?

Can someone tell me what the actual torque for the two bolts are?
Thanks

tigerpaw · 07-13-2019, 02:49 AM

othater, torque value for the 12mm top bolt is 14 ft.lbs
For the 14mm bottom bolt it is 40 ft.lbs. New belt deflection is 7.0 mm- 8.5 mm.

othater · 02-27-2012, 07:59 PM

Got a replacement serpentine belt.
Still a Dayco but a better quality one. Store would only give me credit for the same brand.
Originally went with the part number above. Didn't know they came in different grades.
So far so good.
Sure was easier the second time replacing.

Illryion · 04-08-2012, 06:58 PM

Just used this guide - thanks all. Easy Peasy.

the rev · 03-18-2013, 08:58 PM

So, first off, thanks for the great guide!

Second, a word of caution to those who wish to undertake this:
You need to oil the crap out of the bottom bolt, several times, and let it sit BEFORE endeavoring to remove it! They apparently make these bolt heads out of pudding (on the 2010 anyway), and it will round right off with little effort. Oil it (from the backside) and let it sit.

Happy motoring!

Toolaholic · 10-04-2013, 07:22 AM

To loosen and tighten lower alternator bolt from the top w/o removing a/c line brackets use a slim head 3/8 ratchet(I used a armstrong 10-994), 3/8 to 1/4 adapter(this is right length to clear front of alternator that sticks out over bolt) and a quality 1/4 drive 14mm six point socket( I used a craftsman USA 1st time and a proto the second time{fit tighter than craftsman}).A gearwrench 3/8 torque wrench fits w/ the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 drive socket. It's still tight w/ a/c brackets left on. You must tilt ratchet/ext/socket at a 45 degree angle and slip over 14mm bolt. Getting socket on bolt straight on doesn't work cause of a /c bracket being on the way. You can also loosen and tighten lower bolt from the front w/ a flex head ratchet flexed to the right( looking from front of car ). I pryed w/ a gearwrench 16" prybar. If you pry from top be careful prybar wants to slip in alternator vent holes. You can pry from the side w/ the gearwrench ( you must adjust flex head accordingly ). Hope this helps.

E46 · 10-02-2017, 07:07 PM

I've been trying to replace the belt on my wife's Yaris. Soaked the lower alternator bolt with penetrating oil every other day for more than 2 weeks, then used a steel pipe over my socket wrench to get more leverage. Felt the thing give way and my wrench dropped to the bottom of the engine bay. Picked it up and saw that the wrench broke at the socket connector....

tigerpaw · 07-06-2019, 11:49 PM

I believe the factory uses threadlocker on the 14 mm bottom bolt. Heat up the bolt with a BBQ long lighter and use a pipe over the ratchet handle. If it's still stubborn try to tighten the bolt . You just need it to budge a tiny bit then you've got it. Worked for me! Also the factory belt is a Bando brand 4PK1180 for vehicles with air conditioner. Paid about 6 bucks at Rock Auto.

toyotavios_11 · 07-07-2019, 11:09 PM

the space is very compact and it is hard for you to insert bigger ratchet. what you need it a piece of pipe on the handle on small ratchet

mirageman · 08-29-2021, 06:55 PM

I just posted in another thread about losing my belt on the Garden State Parkway, seeing the red overheating coolant light (it is a pretty red, though, LOL) and the subsequent sleeping at an Autozone Parking lot until they opened and using their tools. It is not an easy job. I stripped the bottom bolt because I used the wrong socket. Don't use the wrong socket. I ended up loosening only the top bolt and hitting my aluminum alternator right at a thick part of it with this long metal rod I keep in my car for emergencies...... Yes it is bad to subject your alternator to such forces and I know it was wrong to do so but I really didn't hit it that hard and it moved little by little. I was able move the alternator back despite that lower bolt being super tight. I was also able to use my bar as a crowbar to tighten the alternator, wedging it between the engine and the body of the alternator and pulling the alternator out to tighten the belt. No tool to measure belt deflection, just a push of a finger to make sure it is pretty snug is good enough. If it doesn't squeal on startup, you're ok. After 100 miles, a retightening was required, but none since then. This was Autozone's better belt that cost like 2 bucks more than the valuecraft and comes with a year or 3 year warrantee.

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02-23-2012, 11:42 PM	#1
othater Drives: 07SedanS06Taco Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: SoCal, SanGabriel Posts: 53	I replaced the belt going on 6 months. Had to tighten the belt at least 5 times due to screeching. Seems like the belt stretches a little every time. (I marked the original location of the bolt) Belt looks good, maybe this Dayco is just cheap or defective. Probably will see if I can return it under warranty. Are the gates any better or just go get the OEM from the dealer (on-line)? Can someone tell me what the actual torque for the two bolts are? Thanks

07-13-2019, 02:49 AM	#2
tigerpaw Drives: 2012 yaris sedan Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: montreal canada Posts: 5	othater, torque value for the 12mm top bolt is 14 ft.lbs For the 14mm bottom bolt it is 40 ft.lbs. New belt deflection is 7.0 mm- 8.5 mm.

02-27-2012, 07:59 PM	#3
othater Drives: 07SedanS06Taco Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: SoCal, SanGabriel Posts: 53	Got a replacement serpentine belt. Still a Dayco but a better quality one. Store would only give me credit for the same brand. Originally went with the part number above. Didn't know they came in different grades. So far so good. Sure was easier the second time replacing.

04-08-2012, 06:58 PM	#4
Illryion Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: United States Posts: 2	Just used this guide - thanks all. Easy Peasy.

03-18-2013, 08:58 PM	#5
the rev I've made a post! Drives: 2010 Yaris Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: St. Louis MO Posts: 1	So, first off, thanks for the great guide! Second, a word of caution to those who wish to undertake this: You need to oil the crap out of the bottom bolt, several times, and let it sit BEFORE endeavoring to remove it! They apparently make these bolt heads out of pudding (on the 2010 anyway), and it will round right off with little effort. Oil it (from the backside) and let it sit. Happy motoring!

10-04-2013, 07:22 AM	#6
Toolaholic Drives: Olive yaris,FRS, Dakota R/T Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Pa Posts: 147	To loosen and tighten lower alternator bolt from the top w/o removing a/c line brackets use a slim head 3/8 ratchet(I used a armstrong 10-994), 3/8 to 1/4 adapter(this is right length to clear front of alternator that sticks out over bolt) and a quality 1/4 drive 14mm six point socket( I used a craftsman USA 1st time and a proto the second time{fit tighter than craftsman}).A gearwrench 3/8 torque wrench fits w/ the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 drive socket. It's still tight w/ a/c brackets left on. You must tilt ratchet/ext/socket at a 45 degree angle and slip over 14mm bolt. Getting socket on bolt straight on doesn't work cause of a /c bracket being on the way. You can also loosen and tighten lower bolt from the front w/ a flex head ratchet flexed to the right( looking from front of car ). I pryed w/ a gearwrench 16" prybar. If you pry from top be careful prybar wants to slip in alternator vent holes. You can pry from the side w/ the gearwrench ( you must adjust flex head accordingly ). Hope this helps.

07-06-2019, 11:49 PM	#8
tigerpaw Drives: 2012 yaris sedan Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: montreal canada Posts: 5	I believe the factory uses threadlocker on the 14 mm bottom bolt. Heat up the bolt with a BBQ long lighter and use a pipe over the ratchet handle. If it's still stubborn try to tighten the bolt . You just need it to budge a tiny bit then you've got it. Worked for me! Also the factory belt is a Bando brand 4PK1180 for vehicles with air conditioner. Paid about 6 bucks at Rock Auto.

07-07-2019, 11:09 PM	#9
toyotavios_11 Drives: Toyota Vios Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: MY Posts: 48	the space is very compact and it is hard for you to insert bigger ratchet. what you need it a piece of pipe on the handle on small ratchet

08-29-2021, 06:55 PM	#10
mirageman Drives: 2009 yaris Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: poughkeepsie ny Posts: 48	I just posted in another thread about losing my belt on the Garden State Parkway, seeing the red overheating coolant light (it is a pretty red, though, LOL) and the subsequent sleeping at an Autozone Parking lot until they opened and using their tools. It is not an easy job. I stripped the bottom bolt because I used the wrong socket. Don't use the wrong socket. I ended up loosening only the top bolt and hitting my aluminum alternator right at a thick part of it with this long metal rod I keep in my car for emergencies...... Yes it is bad to subject your alternator to such forces and I know it was wrong to do so but I really didn't hit it that hard and it moved little by little. I was able move the alternator back despite that lower bolt being super tight. I was also able to use my bar as a crowbar to tighten the alternator, wedging it between the engine and the body of the alternator and pulling the alternator out to tighten the belt. No tool to measure belt deflection, just a push of a finger to make sure it is pretty snug is good enough. If it doesn't squeal on startup, you're ok. After 100 miles, a retightening was required, but none since then. This was Autozone's better belt that cost like 2 bucks more than the valuecraft and comes with a year or 3 year warrantee.