Tamago's guide to ultimate yaris handling

[advocate]

Need some pics kngrsll! Also, thx for the confirmation

[kngrsll]

Originally Posted by advocate

Need some pics kngrsll! Also, thx for the confirmation

ive posted some before...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19355

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

TAMAGO,
on a 205-55-15 setup what tire pressure should be ran for commuting at speeds between 70-90 on a daily basis? current pressure is 36 lbs......

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by ROCKLAND TOYOTA

TAMAGO,
on a 205-55-15 setup what tire pressure should be ran for commuting at speeds between 70-90 on a daily basis? current pressure is 36 lbs......

sounds good.

if you want better fuel economy at the risk of wearing the center of your tires out prematurely, go up a few psi.

if you want better grip, drop a few psi off.

i run 36 front, 28 rear on my xA, but i also don't have a standard alignment or weight bias.

[ddongbap]

I remember running my Re92s at 52~ psi. They started splitting down the middle. Cool stuff.

[allyart]

i have a yaris 5doors hatchback, may i ask some question:

1. when tamago says yaris is he refer to the yaris sedan or the yaris hatchback?

2. when tamago explain the rear swaybar, does he means something like ultra racing Rear Anti-roll Bar / Rear Sway Bar / Rear Stabilizer Bar (Code : UR-AR23-197) OR the ultra racing Rear Anti-roll Bar / Rear Sway Bar / Rear Stabilizer Bar (Code : UR-AR16-126)?

3. lastly, how do you feel about ultra racing Front Strut Bar / Front Tower Bar (Code : UR-TW2-402). is it a good investment to buy?

many thanks for the reply, sorry for my bad english

[eTiMaGo]

wow hadn't read this thread in a while :)

1) I think this would apply to both, but I'm quite sure he meant the hatchback

2) At the time of writing there was really only the TRD rear swaybar. UR offers swaybars now in two thicknesses, The thicker one will have a stronger effect and induce more oversteer.

3) front strut bars are a bit of a controversial topic. Some say that because the shock tower are more or less directly connected to the firewall, there's no point in adding a bar. But some say that at higher cornering speeds (i.e. on track or autocross), you can feel a difference.

So in the end, I think it depends if you plan to seriously race the car or not? If it's to enjoy a spirited drive, you should be fine with the smaller swaybar and no strut bar, as you'd probably never push the car to the limits of handling on a public road (at least I hope not)

[allyart]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

wow hadn't read this thread in a while :)

1) I think this would apply to both, but I'm quite sure he meant the hatchback

2) At the time of writing there was really only the TRD rear swaybar. UR offers swaybars now in two thicknesses, The thicker one will have a stronger effect and induce more oversteer.

3) front strut bars are a bit of a controversial topic. Some say that because the shock tower are more or less directly connected to the firewall, there's no point in adding a bar. But some say that at higher cornering speeds (i.e. on track or autocross), you can feel a difference.

So in the end, I think it depends if you plan to seriously race the car or not? If it's to enjoy a spirited drive, you should be fine with the smaller swaybar and no strut bar, as you'd probably never push the car to the limits of handling on a public road (at least I hope not)

ahh i got it, thanks for the explanation

for now i just want to enjoy a spirited drive, so i will just buy the smaller swaybar. but i have to say, having a strutbar is kinda cool though

[eTiMaGo]

Yeah it does look nice under the hood :p But due to the rather small engine bay, it makes access to the battery and other stuff at the back a bit difficult, just so you know.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by kngrsll

i use a spec miata wheel right now (Team Dynamics) and it is a perfect fit as if it were made for the car.

Even this two year old thread still has useful information. I also ordered wheels (Rota RB's) to Mazda Miata specifications, and they'll be arriving any day now.

My thanks to the good folk who left these messages of good advice.

[Viperoni]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

3) front strut bars are a bit of a controversial topic. Some say that because the shock tower are more or less directly connected to the firewall, there's no point in adding a bar. But some say that at higher cornering speeds (i.e. on track or autocross), you can feel a difference.

In my echo, and on my old slicks, in bumpy corners, I absolutely felt a difference with the strut bar. The front end gripped while the rear didn't, I had oversteer in a couple corners while I was getting used to it, almost got in trouble.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Viperoni

In my echo, and on my old slicks, in bumpy corners, I absolutely felt a difference with the strut bar. The front end gripped while the rear didn't, I had oversteer in a couple corners while I was getting used to it, almost got in trouble.

what were your tire pressures? (this has a lot more to do with your issue than any suspension component, especially on R comps)

[Autocross72]

Not only does a front strut bar make a difference, there is a difference between strut bars. My first strut bar was a Tanabe. I installed it and adjusted the preload. As I did so, I discovered that I could easily deform the bar by pushing on it. If my scrawny self can bend it, just think what a 2,200 pound car can do. When I drove the car with the Tanabe, I wanted to believe that there was a difference in turn in because of the money I spent on it, but ultimately I could not really tell a difference between the Tanabe installed and no bar installed. Eventually, I bit the bullet and ordered an Ultra Racing front bar. That, I can tell you, made a very noticeable difference! Turn in was much more crisp. Of course, this is all relative to my set up, so here are my details; Megan racing coil-overs and adjustable shocks, 23mm Ultra Racing rear sway bar, front and rear under braces, and 16.3 lb, 17x7.5" Motegi MR125 wheels with Toyo Proxes 4 205/40 tires. The main reason I chose that tire and wheel combo is that it keeps my speedo correct. This is my daily driver. I have a 1972 240Z for autocrossing and track days, but if I ever decide to Autocross my Yaris (I did once), I will definitely buy some 15x7" wheels with 205/50 or 225/50 Kumho V710s. The underpowered Yaris needs all the help it can get from the lower gearing of the smaller wheels.

By the way, has anyone ever tried an off set tire set up? I'm thinking of 225/50/15 in front and 205/50/15 in the rear. With that set up you might not need as much front camber which would give you better acceleration and braking (camber reduces the contact patch when the car is going straight).

[arnoldod]

Thanks for this great guide! :)

I had problem with handling in my first 4000 miles but now the handling has changed drastically. I do not do autocross. My driving characteristic is spirited driving, but only in the weekend. I am stuck in the traffic for the rest of the week with 19 Mph average speed.

I am using Toyo Proxes R1R 195/55/R15 with Advanti Storm-1 wheels (10.9 lbs). I understand that the tires won't last to 20,000 miles but my mileage is short (40 miles weekdays, 28 miles weekend).

The air pressure for both front and rear is 35. What is the recommended air pressure for my tires?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by arnoldod

Thanks for this great guide! :)

I had problem with handling in my first 4000 miles but now the handling has changed drastically. I do not do autocross. My driving characteristic is spirited driving, but only in the weekend. I am stuck in the traffic for the rest of the week with 19 Mph average speed.

I am using Toyo Proxes R1R 195/55/R15 with Advanti Storm-1 wheels (10.9 lbs). I understand that the tires won't last to 20,000 miles but my mileage is short (40 miles weekdays, 28 miles weekend).

The air pressure for both front and rear is 35. What is the recommended air pressure for my tires?

if you are commuting, and experience little rain, you could up that pressure for better fuel economy (provided the roads are dry). if it rains, keep the pressures at or slightly below the recommended pressure. remember too, your vehicle weight distribution. there's no reason to run the same pressures front and rear (if you don't carry many passengers, or heavy loads in the rear of your car) as your weight distribution f/r is at least 15/20 percent in the rear "less". less tire pressure in the rear will prevent oversteer, but also may induce understeer on sweeping turns.

as you aren't actually racing the car, all of the above is just theory. enjoy the yaris, and i'm sure tire pressures won't really be a factor. there's really no reason to ever push your car past 70% capability on the street, legally.

[cali yaris]

^ Whoa. Welcome back.

[tk-421]

Yeah, no kidding.

[arminius]

Hello,

A noob question for Tamago or suspension experts, I purchased a 2004 Echo that was kept by the original owner in his garage and only had 49,000 miles. The car was certified by Toyota and the engine bay is mint and looked new.

I already purchased a Tanabe NF210, and is looking to upgrade the shocks and struts to Koni Yellow or KYB GR2s.

The question is: Will a 15x7 offset of +25 XXR 527 or 522 work for the car without any issues, using 175/50/15 Yokohama S Drives?

Tamago has mentioned using 15x6.5 offset of +38 for street use is fine.

Thanks in advance.