I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[why?]

lol, welcome to the joys of a turbo car. Just make sure there is enough oil and coolant, and enjoy!

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds awsome. Congrats Jerzy you got the jump on me. My pocket book is holding me back right know and Im currently looking for someone to weld up my stainless steel down pipe.
That banjo fitting shouldnt need any sealent. Their should be one copper washer on each side on the bajo. For a total of two. These washers get squeezed when tightening down the bolt and the washers get slightly deformed to make a perfect seal between the banjo bolt, banjo line and your turbo. This line is under 60 psi of oil pressure. Thats what most toyota's put out. Their is no silicone or jb weld in the world that will seal that.
Make sure their is one copper washer between the line and the top of the bolt and one between the line and the turbo. This line should be snug and not crazy tight! If the washers are to deformed or squeezed out of place they will not seal.
Also make sure the threads in the turbo and the bolt are not cross threaded or stripped. If the washers do not look like washers anymore because they have been overly squeezed, replace them. Make sure you buy copper washers from a decent auto parts store. Steel washers will not work. These copper washers also seal the brakes lines on your car. They hold over 1000 psi. So if its done right they will hold that 60 psi of oil with no problems and no sealent. Not to sound like a ass, but i have been a mechanic for a long time at several different dealer ships. Please throw out that JB weld. Its whats called a temperary fix to a permanent problem. Its time consuming and a pain in the ass to remove the turbo and check all this shit but you will be so happy when you can cruise all over and not worry about oil leaks.
Best of luck Jerzy. I also want to see a video of this thing trowing down some rubber for insperation.

[stevethegimp]

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by stevethegimp

Very great thread and it has really pushed me into pulling the trigger on installing a turbo into my hatch in the next 1.5 months. I'm really hoping microimage comes out with a kit soon but if not i'll probably be shooting for a zage kit as well!

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thank you for continuing to fuel my ego boost, give my rough draft a read and see if there's anything that seems unclear

pimp_my_yaris, you don't sound like an ass at all lol. There's a reason I post here, and it's to tap into the knowledge of actual mechanics and people with this kind of experience. With that said, I want to point out the banjo bolt is, in fact, leaking. With what you said about the copper washers though, I'm inclined to think it's leaking from where the bolt threads into the turbo. Hopefully it'll become more apparent when I take it off. The return leak is still a total mystery as well.

This merits the following though - should I not even bother with silicone on the bolts then? I won't put them on the washers because that would probably mess the pressure seal up. I probably can still use it to seal the return gasket and flange though, right? It is depressurized afterall.

Yes some silicone rtv sealent is a good idea on the return line gasket. And check to see if that bajo bolt cracked as well. It is not as stong as a regular bolt because it has been holowed out to allow oil to flow through it.

[Nexus1155]

I don't know if theres any silicone that will handle the heat back on the turbo.

[pimp my yaris]

That realy sucks, I thought U would have found something obvious. If it were me I would try switching the copper washers and retry it. Watch that thing like a hawk with plenty of light and see exactly where the oil starts to leak. When you thread the bolt into the turbo without the line and washers, does it go easily? Or does it bind up? Mabe the thread pitch is wrong on the bolt. Thread pitch is the number of threads per. mm or inch. Mabe the bolt is stoping before the washers get tight. I allready ran into this problem with a oil line kit for my turbo. Report back

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah the washers are only very slightly chipped on the outer edge from where I was using a chisel, so no big deal. I honestly think they needed to be tighter. The way I had it earlier was such that the banjo fitting was still able to rotate with some force applied. I took the turbocharger apart so I could more readily get a wrench around the banjo bolt and tightened it a turn or two more.

The return flange is.. eh. I couldn't tell if there was a problem, mainly because I don't know what to look for. I'll be replacing the paper gasket, and using silicone on the bolts. I'll also start off by tightening it a little less...

The nice thing is, since everything is now installed, I can just put the turbo assembly on the engine block and attach the feed and return lines, then crank the engine. This will make it MUCH easier to spot any and all leaks.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The return line runs very close to the axle. I was looking at it earlier and it sheared some of the steel braided line. The inner liner is untouched and appears to not be leaking. Since it's the return line, I'll be leaving it for now and designing a bracket to keep it AWAY from the axle.

[pimp my yaris]

Sounds like your getting it under control. I would put some silicone on that return line gasket too. As long as their is coolant going through the turbo it should staw cool enough to work. Make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and smooth. Free of jb weld and chisel marks. Good luck and lets see a video!

[Nexus1155]

Hmmmm, if the seals are blown they're blown. its only about a $30 fix but still shitty to do. Otherwise try to run it some more to see if it still smokes alot. If it isn't grinding or making wooo wooo noises, the turbo should still be good just the seals may be bad if the problem persists.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah no noises or anything... I guess I have no choice but to take it out... AGAIN.

I've read white is usually coolant though. I don't know what to think

Ah something else I just remembered - the radiator fan kicked on to full speed within 5 minutes of idle. I think this may be coolant and oil related. GREAT.

[pimp my yaris]

Engine burning coolant will be white smoke and smell like rotten eggs at the tail pipe. Realy foul. Hope your head gasket is ok. A bad head gasket or cracked head could be another cause for oil or coolant in the exhaust. Did you hear any engine pinging "detonation"? This thread is starting to make me nervious about my own project. Say it aint so Jerzy.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Haha you're nervous? Imagine how I feel.

I highly doubt there are any issues with the head gasket. I know when I pulled the coolant lines to get the turbo out, I leaked ALOT of coolant because I didn't even realize it was slowly leaking for a few hours. Maybe some found its way into the charge piping? There's also a crap ton of oil residue left from when I was driving around with an oil leak.

I don't really know how to go about this. I think I'll check all my coolant lines, make sure the oil return isn't plugged at all, then off comes the turbo again. This kinda sucks

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Ok figured it out most likely. The paper gasket I used had flaps around the hole that actually blocked the oil's return for the most part. Currently trying to figure out how to cut those out, but I'm still worried the pressure build up may have blown the seal in the turbo? Guess I won't know until I lessen the restriction on the return.

Uh, on the positive side, the previous leaks I had are definitely dealt with at this point. I'll be more happy about that when I know for a fact that I don't have to rip the turbo out, pull it apart, and replace the seal.

[pimp my yaris]

Just wondering, have U installed the 1zz injectors yet. Also have U made any adjustments with the FIC

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Just wondering, have U installed the 1zz injectors yet. Also have U made any adjustments with the FIC

1ZZ injectors (and tb) are in. No adjustments to the FIC yet.

Here's where I stand now:

I unplugged the return, primed the turbo, fired up the car. Within a minute it stopped the white smoke, so that appears to be solved.

However, I was about to take the car out and now have a new problem. I tore out of my neighborhood and blew a ton of white smoke out the exhaust. It appeared to stop about a minute later, but then the oil idiot light came on? Came home, popped the hood, and nearly passed out by how much white smoke came out from under the hood. I'm 100% sure the smell is coolant burning... so... interesting... lol. I definitely hear some sort of bubbling noise happening around the engine block as well. Bubbling + burning = boiling? But why coolant, WHY?

I'll be checking all the coolant lines and blah blah blah. Anyone feel free to throw me some ideas. I also have a CEL again, and was about to go to advance auto to check it out but... not now.

[pimp my yaris]

Well I would say you need to start thinking about the head gasket or cracked cyl. head or possibly a massive coolant leak under the hood. The bubling sound was the engine overheating. I use a funel that attaches and seals directly to the radiator neck. After I have filled the coolant and blead all air out of the cooling system, I check for air bubles coming up from the radiator. If the bubles never stop. Their is a good chance of a blown head gasket or cracked head.
Clean the engine compartment with a hose and fill the engine back up with a 50/50 coolant, water mix. And first check for under hood leaks. It sounds like it overheated bad and possibly blew the coolant out of the resivoir bottle.

[pimp my yaris]

Its also possible that when U installed the turbo coolant lines, U may have created a large air pocket in the cyl. head. This would cause some bad over heating as well. When filling coolant U must keep engine runing long enogh for thermostat to open so coolant will flow through the cyl. head and push air pockets to the radiator filler neck. This will take about a half hour. During this time U must monitor engine temp. and make sure U dont over heat. If your fan has turned on and off a couple off times this will be long enough. Dont rev. your engine during this time. And make sure You keep the radiator full.
Sorry for long explanation. Hope this is helpfull.
Good luck in this mission as U have allready accepted it.