I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 13 - Toyota Yaris Forums

cali yaris · 09-02-2010, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

I did -- that was really fun.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I did -- that was really fun.

LOL

Btw guys, I looked up the code I had and it was P2238, "O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit Low." Anyone have any ideas?

As expected, it seems to be related to the A/F sensor. Like I said, the fact that I still get readings on the narrowgauge means it can't be ruined. I still had the CEL when I turned the car on an hour ago too... Does the code just have to be cleared?

And videos.. Soon... Need to find our camera...

EDIT: I'm pretty sure there's a short circuit in the +B wire. Will do a continuity test tomorrow.

pimp my yaris · 09-02-2010, 09:26 PM

Sounds like you got a bad O2 sensor. This is the top sensor before cat. converter. Or possibly your car is runing very rich with the 1zz injectors and may need tuning with the AEM FIC. What does your wideband sensor read?

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 10:55 PM

http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...4h/cip2238.pdf

BAMP

why? · 09-03-2010, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I did -- that was really fun.

you should have videoed that, I am sure it was great entertainment.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-03-2010, 04:37 PM

CEL solved. Surprisingly, it was the wire I run off the narrowband gauge, It was either short circuiting / open circuit, but once I cut it the CEL disappeared. All other wires were showing continuity and the correct voltage, so I was getting a little worried.

I also extended the A/F sensor wires and ran it through some heat retardant plastic conduit. I have it running away from the downpipe to the ECM, then across the top. If there was any wire burning issues, this should hopefully be resolved now.

Also had a small coolant leak STILL. I finally just replaced the brass fitting I was using and it seems to be ok now.

As soon as all these damn problems stop coming up I'll get more pictures and video up lol. It's been over a week of battling problems and I'd like to just drive the car care-free.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-03-2010, 11:00 PM

God I need a code reader...

Got another CEL tonight. No idea what it is, but I'm assuming it's O2 related again. I wouldn't be surprised considering I put electric tape too close to the sensor and its become molted and is boiling on the O2 sensor lmao. Gonna uh... Clean that off before drawing any other conclusions.

Nexus1155 · 09-05-2010, 11:13 AM

Pulling in more air and running a different AFR than expected more than a certain # of seconds will throw codes im thinking. ECU is constantly adjusting for the airflow and fuel. This only happens when you enter boost? You install your management system with a MAF clamp and a narrowband adjuster to make it seem like the ECU only sees 14.7 all the time?

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-05-2010, 11:17 AM

P0101 is new as of yesterday. I've done a decent amount of driving without getting this code so it's weird it would suddenly pop up. I'm still pretty sure P2238 has something to do with wire damage from the heat off the turbo. And management is not yet in use, so until now the ECU has been doing just fine.

Eh, I'm beginning to think you're right about P0101. It makes sense that while boosting it's easily possibly to return a voltage signal that exceeds what the ECU is expecting. Why it's suddenly decided to start happening... Who knows?

Edit: I just found that P2238 could also mean "Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent," when in relation to Toyotas. If this was the case, wouldn't it make more sense to get these two codes together?

pimp my yaris · 09-06-2010, 10:04 PM

I extended my O2 sensor wires so it would reach my downpipe and I could route them away from exhaust. My downstream O2 sensor [after coverter] I just left connected and pulled through grommet hole inside on car. It is now under my carpet on the driver side. It took a long ride but my engine light came back on as well. Most likely for the downstream O2 sensor. I am hoping it is a converter efficiency code or evap. code due to boost pressure in the system.
I will go to autozone tomarrow and have them scan it. My scanner is not working on the newer cars.

Nexus1155 · 09-07-2010, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Edit: I just found that P2238 could also mean "Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent," when in relation to Toyotas. If this was the case, wouldn't it make more sense to get these two codes together?

Means you're car is seeing boost when its only suppose to see vacuum and the ECU is freaking the hell out.?

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-07-2010, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Means you're car is seeing boost when its only suppose to see vacuum and the ECU is freaking the hell out.?

This must be the case, because my bank 1 sensor 1 functions totally fine as per my narrowband.

pimp my yaris, lemme know what code(s) you have asap. Best case is we have similar codes...
It's interesting that it took a good deal of driving for your code to come on, because it was the same with me. You'd think that if this theory is correct that the light would come on almost immediately. I need to check how the ECU tests for this and determines there's a problem...

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-07-2010, 05:33 PM

Ok, I looked into all this further and realized two things. Firstly, the codes wouldn't come on immediately because it takes two drive cycles for the ECU to determine there is actually a recurring issue. Secondly, I was reading these codes as per the Yaris manual hosted online. P0101 definitely seems to be the maf signal voltage out of range (too high), as a result of boost conditions. As for P2238, the manual lists it as the O2 sensor acting up, not the barometric pressure circuit intermittent. I THINK this is a result of the car running excessively lean. Low positive current on the AF+ wire directly equates to lean conditions. I have a scangauge on the way so I'll run some diagnostics before getting tuned.

Definitely would rather see CELs after boosting than not seeing them. Otherwise the car would clearly just be baffled as to what's happening to it lol.

The cool thing is that if I'm right, a tune will sort out those two CELs. MAF clamping to represent boost conditions, and the proper air/fuel ratio done by fuels map would eliminate P2238.

pimp my yaris · 09-07-2010, 06:13 PM

P0101 is cyl. #1 missfire detected

pimp my yaris · 09-07-2010, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

P0101 is cyl. #1 missfire detected

Never mind I was thinking of po301

fnkngrv · 09-08-2010, 04:12 PM

how do you have your gauges set up? Can you take a picture?

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-08-2010, 06:02 PM

Top -> Bottom = Boost -> Narrowband -> Trans Temp
Transmission temperature is currently not installed.
The gauge pod is a generic one from Summit Racing, and it fits pretty eh, but it works nicely. It comes with foam to fill gaps, but I don't care enough.

Here's the turbo timer I'm not using. The gauge next to it is oil pressure. To the right of it is a voltmeter. I just wanna point out that they're not really 100% setup because I'm waiting on blue LED bulbs for the backlights before I seal the gauges in place and hold the pods with screws in the dash. I have a scangauge on the way that will sit on the steering column.

cali yaris · 09-08-2010, 06:39 PM

I'm curious why you are using a narrowband?

09-05-2010, 11:17 AM	#9
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	P0101 is new as of yesterday. I've done a decent amount of driving without getting this code so it's weird it would suddenly pop up. I'm still pretty sure P2238 has something to do with wire damage from the heat off the turbo. And management is not yet in use, so until now the ECU has been doing just fine. Eh, I'm beginning to think you're right about P0101. It makes sense that while boosting it's easily possibly to return a voltage signal that exceeds what the ECU is expecting. Why it's suddenly decided to start happening... Who knows? Edit: I just found that P2238 could also mean "Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent," when in relation to Toyotas. If this was the case, wouldn't it make more sense to get these two codes together? Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 09-05-2010 at 11:55 AM.

09-08-2010, 04:12 PM	#16
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	how do you have your gauges set up? Can you take a picture? __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

09-08-2010, 06:39 PM	#18
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	I'm curious why you are using a narrowband? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

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09-02-2010, 09:26 PM	#3
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Sounds like you got a bad O2 sensor. This is the top sensor before cat. converter. Or possibly your car is runing very rich with the 1zz injectors and may need tuning with the AEM FIC. What does your wideband sensor read?

09-02-2010, 10:55 PM	#4
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...4h/cip2238.pdf BAMP

09-03-2010, 04:37 PM	#6
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	CEL solved. Surprisingly, it was the wire I run off the narrowband gauge, It was either short circuiting / open circuit, but once I cut it the CEL disappeared. All other wires were showing continuity and the correct voltage, so I was getting a little worried. I also extended the A/F sensor wires and ran it through some heat retardant plastic conduit. I have it running away from the downpipe to the ECM, then across the top. If there was any wire burning issues, this should hopefully be resolved now. Also had a small coolant leak STILL. I finally just replaced the brass fitting I was using and it seems to be ok now. As soon as all these damn problems stop coming up I'll get more pictures and video up lol. It's been over a week of battling problems and I'd like to just drive the car care-free.

09-03-2010, 11:00 PM	#7
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	God I need a code reader... Got another CEL tonight. No idea what it is, but I'm assuming it's O2 related again. I wouldn't be surprised considering I put electric tape too close to the sensor and its become molted and is boiling on the O2 sensor lmao. Gonna uh... Clean that off before drawing any other conclusions.

09-05-2010, 11:13 AM	#8
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Pulling in more air and running a different AFR than expected more than a certain # of seconds will throw codes im thinking. ECU is constantly adjusting for the airflow and fuel. This only happens when you enter boost? You install your management system with a MAF clamp and a narrowband adjuster to make it seem like the ECU only sees 14.7 all the time?

09-06-2010, 10:04 PM	#10
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	I extended my O2 sensor wires so it would reach my downpipe and I could route them away from exhaust. My downstream O2 sensor [after coverter] I just left connected and pulled through grommet hole inside on car. It is now under my carpet on the driver side. It took a long ride but my engine light came back on as well. Most likely for the downstream O2 sensor. I am hoping it is a converter efficiency code or evap. code due to boost pressure in the system. I will go to autozone tomarrow and have them scan it. My scanner is not working on the newer cars.

09-07-2010, 05:33 PM	#13
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Ok, I looked into all this further and realized two things. Firstly, the codes wouldn't come on immediately because it takes two drive cycles for the ECU to determine there is actually a recurring issue. Secondly, I was reading these codes as per the Yaris manual hosted online. P0101 definitely seems to be the maf signal voltage out of range (too high), as a result of boost conditions. As for P2238, the manual lists it as the O2 sensor acting up, not the barometric pressure circuit intermittent. I THINK this is a result of the car running excessively lean. Low positive current on the AF+ wire directly equates to lean conditions. I have a scangauge on the way so I'll run some diagnostics before getting tuned. Definitely would rather see CELs after boosting than not seeing them. Otherwise the car would clearly just be baffled as to what's happening to it lol. The cool thing is that if I'm right, a tune will sort out those two CELs. MAF clamping to represent boost conditions, and the proper air/fuel ratio done by fuels map would eliminate P2238.

09-07-2010, 06:13 PM	#14
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	P0101 is cyl. #1 missfire detected

09-08-2010, 06:02 PM	#17
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Top -> Bottom = Boost -> Narrowband -> Trans Temp Transmission temperature is currently not installed. The gauge pod is a generic one from Summit Racing, and it fits pretty eh, but it works nicely. It comes with foam to fill gaps, but I don't care enough. Here's the turbo timer I'm not using. The gauge next to it is oil pressure. To the right of it is a voltmeter. I just wanna point out that they're not really 100% setup because I'm waiting on blue LED bulbs for the backlights before I seal the gauges in place and hold the pods with screws in the dash. I have a scangauge on the way that will sit on the steering column.