I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 17 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-19-2010, 06:57 PM

Worked on the FIC today with nothing but negative results lol. I've decided to wait and tune once I get my meth kit hooked up (which is on its way

), but I need to figure out how I'm doing it still.

But back to the FIC. Obviously, the best case scenario as I mentioned is to get the O2 manipulated. So I hooked up the O21+ wire today (tap AFR sensor signal wire C20-47), and had nothing but problems.

As per AEM guides I tried no resistor, then resistors (in-line, before the tap location). I tried 1k, 5.5k, 11.2k and got nothing but bad results. The car would start, but it would idle very rough. Looking at my scangauge I noticed a NEGATIVE ignition timing, but the car still was able to enter closed loop. Then it started massively richening the mix until the car just stunk of gasoline (maxed at 10 on my UEGO). The resistor value didn't change the results.

The jumper harness still allows the car to run just fine, so the FIC is clearly at fault in some way. Also, I didn't get any codes... Whose got some bright ideas?

pimp my yaris · 10-19-2010, 07:41 PM

Wish I could help. I removed the top O2 sensor and richened the mixture buy 15% whenever out of boost. And obviously progressively more when in the boost. The car is runing sweet right now with no bumps or jerks and no dying at idle. Also I am in the 11-13:1 range whenever im driving in or out of boost. The car runs so much smoother now. Although I have to deal with check engine light.
I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.
I did remove the chime but for now I left the LED connected. The light does not bother me. I am just tired of answering questions from people riding in my car. I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

Bluevitz-rs · 10-19-2010, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

You probably have a huge flame througher out the tail pipe too LOL

cali yaris · 10-20-2010, 12:18 AM

a little square of black electrical tape, well placed on the gauge cluster will "fix" your CEL, and can be reverted anytime.

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 09:38 AM

Quote:

I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.

Couldn't you just cut the trace that powers the bulb?

I'm going to try switching firmwares on the FIC today and see if that does anything...

Bluevitz-rs · 10-20-2010, 12:27 PM

Yeah, either you had blow by from the turbo, or the seals are gone. Clean it up and if it comes back you'll know the seals are done in the turbo. If it stays clean, then it was just that one time.

cali yaris · 10-20-2010, 02:03 PM

How to clean it up? and he has to clean the piping too right?

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 02:09 PM

It was pooling in the intercooler, the pipes from what I could tell had an oily feel to them but eh. I think it was just the one time, otherwise I would have at least noticed I was losing a large amount of oil...

Bluevitz-rs · 10-23-2010, 12:00 PM

If I'm not mistaken, the Emanage Ultimate can only retard timing as well. So you won't be any better off. Just stick with the FIC and save your money.

xbgod · 10-23-2010, 12:53 PM

E-manage is crap...Complete shit. You shouldn't use it even if it came wraped in 50.00 dollar bills. It's cheap electronics in pretty box.

AEM/FIC alot better. Keep your AEM.

#1 I don't see why when you guys have real issues you don't call and talk to someone at AEM? Intead you rely on someone here to have a magic answer. AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need. They will even put you in contact with a real tunner closest to your house. That unit is quite capable of alot of things. Call and talk to the horses mouth.

#2 Meth will allow you to retard timming. That is why most people use it, to get more boost without detonation. It's like running higher grade fuel for cheap. And fellas don't use Heet and window wash fluid just buy some M1 methanol from a VP dealer. Quit being so damn cheap. It cost about 40.00 for 5 Gal. then mix it 50/50. This is your motor not a shift knob or some other gay bolt on part.

XBG

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-23-2010, 08:28 PM

Hmm, I clearly have this all mixed up. I like your idea XBG, I might try to find a tuner to talk to to get some real opinions.

I'm wondering if there's even any point to running meth if all I'm adjusting is AFRs then?

cali yaris · 10-23-2010, 09:46 PM

Quote:

AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need.

Not in my experience. Getting good help from them is about as easy as pulling teeth.

xbgod · 10-23-2010, 10:20 PM

Yes, sometimes they can be a bare to deal with. But I find in most cases it's all about approach. But like any company theres good days and bad days. For me I've had no issues dealing with them. If you feel your getting the run-around ask for Greg Nakano and tell him your issues. should resolve most issues.

XBG

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-24-2010, 10:48 PM

Two things...

First. Could anyone who has a meth kit installed show me how they have their tank mounted? I'm struggling to find a spot, but I'm pretty sure I need to get creative with brackets somewhere in the trunk.

Secondly, I'm almost positive I can't make past 4.5 psi of boost. I've been wondering about this for awhile, and it seems to max around there. I was flooring it earlier today and I still got the same results. I'm thinking I extended the actuator on accident when I had to disassemble the turbo. Think it's worth adjusting/shortening the actuator a bit to see what happens?

pimp my yaris · 10-25-2010, 05:25 PM

Yes it sounds like the wastegate isn't closing completely. Thats way to low. I had trouble trying to get mine to boost under 10psi. I kept shooting to 12psi due to a restricted wastgate. Now I max at 8psi.

pimp my yaris · 10-25-2010, 05:53 PM

I did call AEM tech line and they were very helpfull and they know their shit as well. I retarded my timing 2 degrees under high engine load using the timing map with the FIC. I dont think their is anything the E-manage can do that the AEM/FIC cant do. I have had very good luck with this thing considering this is the first piggy back I have ever tuned. If I upgraded to a stand alone, their is no doubt it would be AEM.

Bluevitz-rs · 10-29-2010, 01:04 PM

100% agreed.

If you aiming for 8psi, the waste gate will start to open at say 4-5psi and slowly open until 8psi is approached wasting exhaust energy. With an ELECTRONIC boost controller in the system, the waste gate will remain closed utilizing all the exhaust energy until 8psi is achieved.

For Ex.

Without the electronic boost controller, 8psi is only achieved at 3500RPM.
With the electronic boost conroller, 8psi is achieved at 2500rpm.

cali yaris · 10-29-2010, 03:41 PM

^ Yes. Did Peterpoop happen to mention that I'm the one who told him that recently? LOL

An example using World Electronics (Chris Rado) boost controller:

10-20-2010, 12:18 AM	#4
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	a little square of black electrical tape, well placed on the gauge cluster will "fix" your CEL, and can be reverted anytime. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-20-2010, 02:03 PM	#7
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	How to clean it up? and he has to clean the piping too right? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-29-2010, 03:41 PM	#18
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	^ Yes. Did Peterpoop happen to mention that I'm the one who told him that recently? LOL An example using World Electronics (Chris Rado) boost controller: __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under microimage seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. Last edited by cali yaris; 10-30-2010 at 01:01 AM.*

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10-19-2010, 06:57 PM	#1
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Worked on the FIC today with nothing but negative results lol. I've decided to wait and tune once I get my meth kit hooked up (which is on its way ), but I need to figure out how I'm doing it still. But back to the FIC. Obviously, the best case scenario as I mentioned is to get the O2 manipulated. So I hooked up the O21+ wire today (tap AFR sensor signal wire C20-47), and had nothing but problems. As per AEM guides I tried no resistor, then resistors (in-line, before the tap location). I tried 1k, 5.5k, 11.2k and got nothing but bad results. The car would start, but it would idle very rough. Looking at my scangauge I noticed a NEGATIVE ignition timing, but the car still was able to enter closed loop. Then it started massively richening the mix until the car just stunk of gasoline (maxed at 10 on my UEGO). The resistor value didn't change the results. The jumper harness still allows the car to run just fine, so the FIC is clearly at fault in some way. Also, I didn't get any codes... Whose got some bright ideas?

10-19-2010, 07:41 PM	#2
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Wish I could help. I removed the top O2 sensor and richened the mixture buy 15% whenever out of boost. And obviously progressively more when in the boost. The car is runing sweet right now with no bumps or jerks and no dying at idle. Also I am in the 11-13:1 range whenever im driving in or out of boost. The car runs so much smoother now. Although I have to deal with check engine light. I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board. I did remove the chime but for now I left the LED connected. The light does not bother me. I am just tired of answering questions from people riding in my car. I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

10-20-2010, 12:27 PM	#6
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Yeah, either you had blow by from the turbo, or the seals are gone. Clean it up and if it comes back you'll know the seals are done in the turbo. If it stays clean, then it was just that one time.

10-20-2010, 02:09 PM	#8
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	It was pooling in the intercooler, the pipes from what I could tell had an oily feel to them but eh. I think it was just the one time, otherwise I would have at least noticed I was losing a large amount of oil...

10-23-2010, 12:00 PM	#9
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	If I'm not mistaken, the Emanage Ultimate can only retard timing as well. So you won't be any better off. Just stick with the FIC and save your money.

10-23-2010, 12:53 PM	#10
xbgod Banned Drives: "Burning It Down GTX2860RS XB" Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 349	E-manage is crap...Complete shit. You shouldn't use it even if it came wraped in 50.00 dollar bills. It's cheap electronics in pretty box. AEM/FIC alot better. Keep your AEM. #1 I don't see why when you guys have real issues you don't call and talk to someone at AEM? Intead you rely on someone here to have a magic answer. AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need. They will even put you in contact with a real tunner closest to your house. That unit is quite capable of alot of things. Call and talk to the horses mouth. #2 Meth will allow you to retard timming. That is why most people use it, to get more boost without detonation. It's like running higher grade fuel for cheap. And fellas don't use Heet and window wash fluid just buy some M1 methanol from a VP dealer. Quit being so damn cheap. It cost about 40.00 for 5 Gal. then mix it 50/50. This is your motor not a shift knob or some other gay bolt on part. XBG

10-23-2010, 08:28 PM	#11
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Hmm, I clearly have this all mixed up. I like your idea XBG, I might try to find a tuner to talk to to get some real opinions. I'm wondering if there's even any point to running meth if all I'm adjusting is AFRs then?

10-23-2010, 10:20 PM	#13
xbgod Banned Drives: "Burning It Down GTX2860RS XB" Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 349	Yes, sometimes they can be a bare to deal with. But I find in most cases it's all about approach. But like any company theres good days and bad days. For me I've had no issues dealing with them. If you feel your getting the run-around ask for Greg Nakano and tell him your issues. should resolve most issues. XBG

10-24-2010, 10:48 PM	#14
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Two things... First. Could anyone who has a meth kit installed show me how they have their tank mounted? I'm struggling to find a spot, but I'm pretty sure I need to get creative with brackets somewhere in the trunk. Secondly, I'm almost positive I can't make past 4.5 psi of boost. I've been wondering about this for awhile, and it seems to max around there. I was flooring it earlier today and I still got the same results. I'm thinking I extended the actuator on accident when I had to disassemble the turbo. Think it's worth adjusting/shortening the actuator a bit to see what happens?

10-25-2010, 05:25 PM	#15
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Yes it sounds like the wastegate isn't closing completely. Thats way to low. I had trouble trying to get mine to boost under 10psi. I kept shooting to 12psi due to a restricted wastgate. Now I max at 8psi.

10-25-2010, 05:53 PM	#16
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	I did call AEM tech line and they were very helpfull and they know their shit as well. I retarded my timing 2 degrees under high engine load using the timing map with the FIC. I dont think their is anything the E-manage can do that the AEM/FIC cant do. I have had very good luck with this thing considering this is the first piggy back I have ever tuned. If I upgraded to a stand alone, their is no doubt it would be AEM.

10-29-2010, 01:04 PM	#17
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	100% agreed. If you aiming for 8psi, the waste gate will start to open at say 4-5psi and slowly open until 8psi is approached wasting exhaust energy. With an ELECTRONIC boost controller in the system, the waste gate will remain closed utilizing all the exhaust energy until 8psi is achieved. For Ex. Without the electronic boost controller, 8psi is only achieved at 3500RPM. With the electronic boost conroller, 8psi is achieved at 2500rpm.