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Old 01-10-2013, 08:06 PM   #1
Focus_Sh1ft
 
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Pretty good progress today. I'm almost there, but am kind of stuck on the camshafts / timing chain.








So yeah... those camshafts. I've looked at the service manual and not only does it not make sense, but I can't get the plug out of the "service hole." Further, the flange nut on the number two camshaft sprocket isn't budging. My wrench is actually stripping it. It looks like I may be able to just remove the retainers and wiggle the camshaft out with the gear still on, but I dunno. Can anyone give me some pointers?
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:43 PM   #2
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You'll have to take the front of the motor apart. Probably need to release the auto tensioner and lock it back then pull the chain off the crank and then off the cams.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:41 AM   #3
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man..... after work ill try to take some pics for you of my torn down engine to try and help explain....

you'll have to remove the timing cover. once its off, remove the tensioner (by removing the preload then unbolting it). Once the tensioner is removed you can slip out all the chain guides and there should be enough play to pull the chain off the crank sprocket.

Once the chain is off the crank sprocet you should be able to pull the chain off the cam sprockets without removing the sprockets from the cams

EDIT: LOL, almost the exact same thing bluevitz-rs said....
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #4
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Thanks guys

...I was really trying to avoid taking the chain cover off
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #5
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Now I really wish I hadn't taken the chain cover off...



I can get another one pretty cheap thankfully, but was wondering if I could get away with just using sealant between the two pieces. Is the oil in the timing chain case pressurized? It looks like it's just thrown on the crank lubricating the chain as the engine turns.

Otherwise, I'm stuck on the head bolts. I thought it was a 12 pt socket I needed but was the exact opposite
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #6
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I have the tool if U need it I can send it to U as long as U return it. Send me a PM with your address. I am surprised you blew the head gasket. The Yaris use a metal haed gasket and they are pretty strong. How much boost are U pushing? Did you retard the timing with the FIC timing map?
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #7
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Thanks for the offer pimp, but I already ordered one.

I was only pushing about 9 lbs with the timing untouched, but I don't think that was the issue. When I had the car at the mechanic, we noticed one of the clamps I had on the throttle body coolant hose had actually broken and was dripping coolant. It was a very slow leak, but overtime probably caused overheating... I never noticed excessive coolant temps though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #8
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Could've had an air pocket trapped in that spot an never know it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Could've had an air pocket trapped in that spot an never know it.
wouldnt that have gotten pushed out after a small amount of engine use?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:10 PM   #10
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I was pushing 12psi with stock compression, but I did retard the timing at any boost level over 7psi with the Fic map. It will help avoid detonation. If your car would stumble or miss on hard excel. it could be the knock sensor cutting spark because of detonation. When my car does it I know I need to retard timing a little further. Usually after turning up the boost when the engine is still a little cool. A negative sign - must be put in front of the value on the fic map. It can only retard timing. It can not advance. Just a sugestion.
A lot of detonation can cause a bad head gasket as well. My Conquest TSI (with cranked up boost) blew several head gaskets because I had no timing control.
Also that front cover and timing chain really suck with the engine in the car. Very tight fit. The exhaust cam sprocket has three marks on it. Make sure U align on the right one. It caused me three days of headaches with my car almost starting, but it would not keep running. Best of luck
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:04 PM   #11
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I definitely wish I knew what the exact cause of this was, but I think I'll take your advice pimp and retard the timing a bit. Maybe the manner in which the gasket failed will tell us something (or if the head is warped).
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:50 AM   #12
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where did u guys get the proper head bolt tool? i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris2010RS View Post
where did u guys get the proper head bolt tool? i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out.
You had to hammer it? I thought the tool is a triple square?

Here's the one I got
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400243378711
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
i hammered a tripple square into it to get mine out
*shudders*

You can easily find those. 8mm 12pt bit. Just type it in google and you will get so many choices.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:57 PM   #15
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^negative, i purchased a tripple square and the angles were slightly off, i had to grind down the tool i purchased just to squeeze it in where the silly head bolts go and still had to hammer it into the bolt head, the bolts are garbage but the hardened bit was able to get all the bolts out.

Toyota used a double hex bit. which is almost impossible to find from local stores. Toyota does admit this tool was used on purpose and is only used on a few models. They do make a tool themselves and supply all toyota techs with one. This is the scoop i got from toyota atleast. They will not sell me a tool nor let me borrow one, they did offer me for the cost of 1 hour of labour, when im ready to put my engine together they will do it for me......
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:18 PM   #16
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12-Point XZN (Triple-Square)
This is another variant of a 12-point head. But (as the name indicates) it is made of three squares (instead of two hexagons). The corners are therefor 90 degrees (instead of 120 degrees). This is clearly visible in the pictures where the corners are much sharper on "triple-square" than on "double-hex" heads.


12-Point (Double-Hex)
This is one common variant of a 12-point head. It is made of two hexagons. The corners are therefor 120 degrees. Common sizes are 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:22 PM   #17
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What a load of crap about that tool. That's a pretty pathetic tactic to get more business.

Be it overheating or predetonation, I'll definitely be accounting for both of them.

Tool should be here tomorrow, so we'll know more then.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:42 PM   #18
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Just courious, did u end up getting compression readings?

reading more into your troubles and comparing them with mine we definatly had the same issue..... i keep meaning to check my HG for signs of leaks
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