Sleey0's Turbo Projec!

[cali yaris]

You'll have to get the Autometer rheostat kit (or similar from somewhere else) to go with those C2's -- they are WAY too bright at night.

[sleey0]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

You'll have to get the Autometer rheostat kit (or similar from somewhere else) to go with those C2's -- they are WAY too bright at night.

What do you mean? The kit turns down the brightness?

[sleey0]

http://www.zageturbo.com/pro/proshow.asp?y42j0cl=138

Doesn't look too bad. If you notice there are 10 bolts for the oil pan hahahaha (inside joke)

Love ya and u know who I am talking about:D

Still don't know why the IC inlet and outlet are not even. Any guesses?

[cali yaris]

What do you mean? The kit turns down the brightness?

Yes.

[sleey0]

So, I got the C2 boost gauge. Garm introduced me to controllers.

Is it ok to use the c2 and mechanical controller like Hallman?

Or would it be best to get the AEM digital gauge controller? If I go with the Tru-Boost it will be the same money wise as C2 and Hallman.

Whaddya think? I think that hallman looks kick ass and it is pretty inexpensive:D

[sleey0]

Oh and just talked with my buddy doing the install. First he laughed at my engine and said him and a few buddies coiuld lift it out.

Anyway, He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back

BUT we will most likely fire it up first to make sure the pistons and rods are ok an there are no leaks anywhere etc.

Then the Zage. He took a look at pics and said maybe a full day, most liekly less. He said the kit looks like good quality. So +1 for Zage!

Wiring the AEM will be the most challenging part, believe it or not. lol Although I have good documentation from you guys here and MI that already did it.

Then we shall do gauges and take it for a spin. If it is driveable than to the dyno it goes (the dyno is like 45min away). If not than the dude has a trailer to bring it there.

A week/week and a half sound about right.

Also he has access to a press so if you guys want AC lines moved professionally maybe he can make some extra off my copy.

Basically getting rid of current AC lines and making new ones that angle and fit without being near heated components.

~Wes

[Nexus1155]

Where do you order from that lets you keep cancelling!

Remember, you are going to lose most fluids when doing an engine pull. You really should not have to pull the engine just to do a turbo kit, but if you do, remember to stock up on oil coolant power steering fluid and brake fluid.

You also might not want to pull engine depending on wall clearance, might make it harder to get back in.

[advocate]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

power steering fluid

don't we have electronic power steering?

[sleey0]

Well, oif course I aint't pulling that small bastard to just pu the kit on.

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

[Nexus1155]

Still think it would be easier just to remove the head alone and not risk things/fluids too. Also make sure you get some head studs. You cannot reuse stock head studs, most of them now a days are all stretch bolts and thats a no no on reuseability. Same with flywheel bolts.

[sleey0]

Where can I get 1NZFE head studs?

[Nexus1155]

Garm got them custom, but Toyota has them for sure i bet at like $5 per stud. Also another way to lower your compression to push more boost is to get a thicker head gasket. I don't know how much your pistons will lower them, but the headgasket is good for another .5 of a drop

[cali yaris]

make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.

Where exactly did the 30% come from?

[Morgan]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

Not true. The meth actually lasts quite awhile. Depends on how you drive of course. Since I am maxing out at about 8-9lbs of boost, i have my meth kick in at 2lbs of boost. I also buy HEET to use as my meth, and it's only a couple bucks a bottle at WAL-MART. Takes about maybe 8-9 bottles to fill the entire meth kit? A full tank of meth can last me about a month with my driving. However, I don't street race and go into boost every chance I get....

ps: I wouldn't have even gotten the meth kit if i wasn't going to tune with it.





Not true. I am running 99.9999% meth and my stock hose lines haven't broke....

I was going through the 1 gallon tank (the one pictured) every couple of days or roughly 100 miles. I started buying methanol in bulk from a local auto shop. If you factor in the $40 methanol storage 5 gal tank and then $5 per gallon, it wasn't "very" expensive, so I guess I take back my intensifier.

Oh yes and HEET is a great substitute if you can not find methanol in bulk quantities, also most washer fluids will list methanol content if you can do some calculation on what temperatures they work in. Roughly a -20* solution is 25-30% methanol, but living in a state where it rarely freezes.... the closest I ever found local to me was +20* washer mix

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.


Where exactly did the 30% come from?

As to the lines breaking, I had to keep extra tubing in the car and a pair of scissors on me at all times... along with a hex head 6mm and a 14mm wrench. I never had a problem with any of the lines in the car, only the one from the pump outlet to the injector. After playing with where the line was routed and eliminating that as a possible cause for leaks, I assumed it was the tubing and after switching to a higher thickness tubing I never had any issues.

My 30% by volume (not weight) came from my own diagnostics. I'm not saying I'm a "genius" by any means but it ran quicker from 25 to 75 mph in 5th gear when the mix was between 2/3 to 3/4 water to 1/3 - 1/4 methanol. Of course if you live anywhere outside of my neighborhood (humidity, elevation... blah blah variables), this may not be helpful to you. However, I was sharing what worked for me... sorry for the intrusion....

[cali yaris]

He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back

That would be the fastest swap I've ever seen. I will keep my healthy skepticism on this detail.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

That would be the fastest swap I've ever seen. I will keep my healthy skepticism on this detail.

I agree!

[cali yaris]

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

What compression? If not stock, I'm guessing you'll be in trouble with the ECU and a piggyback.

[xbgod]

Your engine builder is full of shit, will take a few hours to pull the motor correctly. And if your gonna do some piston changes that change compression and or CC you may have some trouble with that piggy back ECU.

Your engine builder is working in dream land and your in for a wake-up call on this whole thing.

My self and Garm got more time under the hood of these cars than your engine builder probably has in his whole career.

Your whole situation is unrealistic and there is a world of issues headed your way.

A few hours to put new pistons and rods in.

Not if you have file fit rings and you want to check everything. Not to mention you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

Also there is no ARP head stud kit for this car. You have to go custom like me and Garm. And untill you go big like him and I you don't even warrent them.

Good Luck with this disaster

XBG