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Old 10-06-2010, 08:34 PM   #1
sleey0
 
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Well, oif course I aint't pulling that small bastard to just pu the kit on.

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:37 PM   #2
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Still think it would be easier just to remove the head alone and not risk things/fluids too. Also make sure you get some head studs. You cannot reuse stock head studs, most of them now a days are all stretch bolts and thats a no no on reuseability. Same with flywheel bolts.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:43 PM   #3
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Where can I get 1NZFE head studs?
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:01 PM   #4
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Garm got them custom, but Toyota has them for sure i bet at like $5 per stud. Also another way to lower your compression to push more boost is to get a thicker head gasket. I don't know how much your pistons will lower them, but the headgasket is good for another .5 of a drop
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:07 AM   #5
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make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture
I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.

Where exactly did the 30% come from?
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:54 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by PETERPOOP View Post
Not true. The meth actually lasts quite awhile. Depends on how you drive of course. Since I am maxing out at about 8-9lbs of boost, i have my meth kick in at 2lbs of boost. I also buy HEET to use as my meth, and it's only a couple bucks a bottle at WAL-MART. Takes about maybe 8-9 bottles to fill the entire meth kit? A full tank of meth can last me about a month with my driving. However, I don't street race and go into boost every chance I get....

ps: I wouldn't have even gotten the meth kit if i wasn't going to tune with it.





Not true. I am running 99.9999% meth and my stock hose lines haven't broke....
I was going through the 1 gallon tank (the one pictured) every couple of days or roughly 100 miles. I started buying methanol in bulk from a local auto shop. If you factor in the $40 methanol storage 5 gal tank and then $5 per gallon, it wasn't "very" expensive, so I guess I take back my intensifier.

Oh yes and HEET is a great substitute if you can not find methanol in bulk quantities, also most washer fluids will list methanol content if you can do some calculation on what temperatures they work in. Roughly a -20* solution is 25-30% methanol, but living in a state where it rarely freezes.... the closest I ever found local to me was +20* washer mix
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.


Where exactly did the 30% come from?
As to the lines breaking, I had to keep extra tubing in the car and a pair of scissors on me at all times... along with a hex head 6mm and a 14mm wrench. I never had a problem with any of the lines in the car, only the one from the pump outlet to the injector. After playing with where the line was routed and eliminating that as a possible cause for leaks, I assumed it was the tubing and after switching to a higher thickness tubing I never had any issues.

My 30% by volume (not weight) came from my own diagnostics. I'm not saying I'm a "genius" by any means but it ran quicker from 25 to 75 mph in 5th gear when the mix was between 2/3 to 3/4 water to 1/3 - 1/4 methanol. Of course if you live anywhere outside of my neighborhood (humidity, elevation... blah blah variables), this may not be helpful to you. However, I was sharing what worked for me... sorry for the intrusion....
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:10 AM   #7
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He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back
That would be the fastest swap I've ever seen. I will keep my healthy skepticism on this detail.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:11 AM   #8
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I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.
What compression? If not stock, I'm guessing you'll be in trouble with the ECU and a piggyback.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:00 AM   #9
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Your engine builder is full of shit, will take a few hours to pull the motor correctly. And if your gonna do some piston changes that change compression and or CC you may have some trouble with that piggy back ECU.

Your engine builder is working in dream land and your in for a wake-up call on this whole thing.

My self and Garm got more time under the hood of these cars than your engine builder probably has in his whole career.

Your whole situation is unrealistic and there is a world of issues headed your way.

A few hours to put new pistons and rods in.

Not if you have file fit rings and you want to check everything. Not to mention you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

Also there is no ARP head stud kit for this car. You have to go custom like me and Garm. And untill you go big like him and I you don't even warrent them.

Good Luck with this disaster

XBG

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Old 10-07-2010, 10:37 AM   #10
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you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.
The Pauter rods were the same for me.
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:54 AM   #11
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don't we have electronic power steering?
I dunno, never looked into it. Just saying what you'd need for general motor pulls
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:09 PM   #12
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Yaris = Electronic power assisted steering
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:34 PM   #13
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Kinda surprised no one has said this yet but uh...

How about you just put the turbo in and deal with pistons/rods/meth/everything else later. It's like you're trying to do brain surgery, file your taxes, build a time machine, and create a dog/cat fusion all at once. What's the rush?
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:52 PM   #14
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Gonna be pretty hard to trouble shoot...

But that's probably exactly what the installers want to have happen.
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:47 PM   #15
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I'm guessing he doesn't want to disassemble the turbo once it's on in order to get the new pistons in and sleeve the block if he wants?
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:42 PM   #16
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And some new info gained by a trusted member.

Pistons and rods may be a project down the road now depending on my funds standpoint here in the next month or two,

So no more bashing/talking/whatever about the rods/pistons and engine pull plz.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:50 PM   #17
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Back to my project.

Should I get the 1ZZ injectors? Or go bigger, like tC?

Performace/sftermarket ones?

Any suggestions......Thanks
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:44 AM   #18
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I would have went the windshield wiper fluid route for the meth, but because I am in hawaii, they don't sell the windshield washer fluid that could work.
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