Jimze Supercharged 1nz-fe Build

[06YarisRS]

This is great! So happy to see more discussion about forced induction Yari! Yay!

[iwanttobeamole]

Small update.
Got a boost gauge and mounted it up.
Was able to test drive the car and check the boost levels which seem to be much the same as before, around 0.9bar or just over 13PSI.
Love the response out of a positive displacement supercharger.
Little Video here


Final pillar mount setup. Not all that pretty, but I'm all about function over form.


Catching up with a mate this week and we'll discuss the plan to modify the intake manifold to output and input so I can run it through an intercooler.

Also making plans to finally fix the exhaust which is stock (I believe 1.75") between the (Megan Racing) headers and rear muffler.
I'm thinking we'll go 2.5" all the way through with a nice center resolator, and decent rear muffler.
Will also be fitting up a wideband at the same time for future tuning etc. Not too sure where I'll be mounting all the gauges yet. Maybe in the little center top sunglasses? holder if they fit.

More as it happens.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by iwanttobeamole

Also making plans to finally fix the exhaust which is stock (I believe 1.75") between the (Megan Racing) headers and rear muffler.
I'm thinking we'll go 2.5" all the way through with a nice center resolator, and decent rear muffler.

This is basically the same setup I have. Front to back:
3" downpipe with two 02 sensor ports -> 3" x 2.5" reducing coupler -> high flow CAT (with downstream 02 port) -> 18" "cherry bomb" style muffler -> rear turbo (Walker) 2.5" in, 2.5" out muffler -> 2.5" x 4" SS stubby exhaust tip. Mine was all crush bent so probably not as free-flowing as a 2.25" mandrel bent setup. But, it works great and EGTs are good.

Cranky is right. 2.5 was hard to get tucked up in there. If I had more money, I would go for a mandrel bent SS system.

[CrankyOldMan]

I ran stock exhaust up until I did the 1.8 swap, then went to 2.25. I think 2.5 may be hard to route as well as overkill. I started with a straight pipe from the first cat to a Dynomax VT muffler (has a flap like our stock one) and added an inline "race bullet" where the stock resonator goes to take out some of the drone. Pretty happy with the result, considering how much engineering goes into an OEM exhaust.

[myfirstyota]

I have the magnaflow ss 2.25" system from exhaust manifold to muffler in the 2zr swapped car (still need a nice free flowing muffler). Its a nice setup but set me back over 600cad.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by myfirstyota

I have the magnaflow ss 2.25" system from exhaust manifold to muffler in the 2zr swapped car (still need a nice free flowing muffler). Its a nice setup but set me back over 600cad.

Yes, I think I mentioned earlier that I almost had one. TDot Performance listed them but they were out of stock. They kept the listing up for a long time after. It is a beautiful looking system. You must be really happy with it. I bet is sounds great too.

[myfirstyota]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Yes, I think I mentioned earlier that I almost had one. TDot Performance listed them but they were out of stock. They kept the listing up for a long time after. It is a beautiful looking system. You must be really happy with it. I bet is sounds great too.

Hard to tell how the sound is. The car is currently running the stock scion xd muffler.

I also cut the fender side out of the oem air box, removed the charcoal filter and obviously the silencer horn as it's useless with the side of the air box missing.

The muffler is the biggest bottleneck in the system. I'll get a nice one installed this spring when the beast comes home from storage. But even with it's current setup, I'm content with the sound.

[iwanttobeamole]

Well.. I guess that was Covid.
Further updates. Short version.
The pulley came loose for some reason (possibly the nut came loose and flogged out the keyway, possible the keyway came loose, flogged itself out ,and loosened the nut.
Either way what it needed was a new input shaft and pulley.
Located said items at superchargersonline.com (Thanks David) for the intake shaft and rebuild kit (might as well do the bearings while I'm at it) and pulleyboys.com for the pulley.....s.
I figured since I plan to intercool it I might end up loosing some pressure so got a 3.0" and a 2.8" just in case I need to spin it a little faster.
Those arrived today


Also dropped the manifold off to a local outfit to have it vapourblasted to clean it up for welding as it's cast aluminium. (yes I spelt that correctly)

Once the shaft and snout rebuild kit arrive I can re-assemble that.
Meanwhile here's the list
- Get the intake manifold modified to output the charge through the front/bottom,
- Procure and mount intercooler
- Plumb said intercooler to manifold
- Mount new open element air intake temp sensor into the manifold somewhere.
- Rebuild S/C snout and re-assemble.
- re-assemble
- Exhaust
- Tune
- Skids

More soon!

[thebarber]

fwiw, i had the blitz with a DC header and a 2.25" exhaust (back end of resonator to a megan axleback muffler) and was happy. 2.5 wouldve been at bit big, i wager.

[iwanttobeamole]

The work continues.

More soon

[Gorilla]

Welcome back mate! I remember seeing the car up for sale as I always trawl NZ FB Market Place and Trademe! You have to look into getting a C56 from the Vitz RS, there are a few wreckers in NZ that will have them. I put one in mine (LSD From Turbo Model) and its probably my favourite mod. Shorter ratios and LSD.

[malibuguy]

heads up about the Megan axle backs. I had one come in on a Yaris hatchie years ago and inside the muffler core was 1.5-1.75" tops. Keeps it quiet but sure as shit not much of an improvement in flow.

[iwanttobeamole]

So..
Supercharger parts arrived (ages ago) and I've gotten the blower reassembled with the new shaft, bearings, and pulley.


Blocked up the "silencer" holes with some aluminium wedges and welded those in, then some 2 part epoxy (loctite stuff, but same same as J weld) Should make good noises now.



Finished and fitted up the modified intake manifold




Bought and fitted up a "same side" intercooler.


And plumbed it.





Slapped it all back together and cut a dirty great hole in the front bumper (don't judge me)



As there are no gaskets for this setup I've used RTV which is drying now. Should be good for a test run tomorrow.
*excite*

[iwanttobeamole]

Aaaaand now it sounds like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7g1UYw7D9U
Note: Lots of belt slip due to the accessory belt being a bit loose.

Evidently those silencer holes I blocked up REALLY make it a lot quieter.

Now.. the main motivation for this build is definitely the lols but.. this was a bit much.
Turns out a noisy supercharger at low revs with no bypass or silencer slots/holes sounds like every gearbox bearing is about to have a critical failure. This meant that literally everyone I drove passed looked at me with that "that car is about to explode" look. While I don't care about.. well.. people. I tended to agree with them in this instance.
Another issue I experienced was that, because of the increase in the volume between the supercharger and engine, and the lack of bypass valve, coming off throttle was less responsive than desired and resulting in... throttle hang? EG: if you come off throttle and onto the clutch to change gears, you'd get an unwanted rev blip while the existing volume of already compressed air in the intercooler, plumbing and manifold was used up by the engine.

So.... I busted out the old parts from the previous iterations of this car (which I have kept .. because. . you know, they might be useful) and have now reinstalled the bypass valve which bypasses the supercharger (actually it just equalises the pressure) while in vacuum, and closes off once the blower makes positive pressure. Pretty normal supercharger stuff.

So this of course required some highly accurate measurements then a trip to a friends place for some tig goodness.













Then.. a quick bit of fabrication and..





I hoped that the installation of the bypass valve would resolve this issue, and.. I WAS RIGHT! With the bypass in place the car now drives like it did before, but now the intercooler is in place I expect a lower intake temp and therefore the hope to be able to advance timing and make a bit more power.

Interestingly the boost level at the manifold has dropped from about 13psi to about 9. I haven't found a chart to back it up, but I think at least some of this is from the drop in temperature. HOWEVER, I've noticed a couple of things. Firstly, the car feels about as fast as it was before, and secondly the belt doesn't seem to slip nearly as much as before. It's hard compare, but I'm 97% sure that before I NEVER had a run to rev limit (7200RPM) without belt slip. Now, even with the tensioner for the supercharger belt maxxed out and the belt not that tight, it holds. The car makes good power all the way to red line, albeit limited noticably at higher revs by the extremely restrictive exhaust. More on that soon though.

The other issues that appeared, somewhat predictably, is that the larger silicon joiners, (the 90 degree and 45 degree ones specifically) tried to turn themselves inside out every time the car was in vacuum. This was not ideal, so I ended up sleeving the joiners with some 2" alloy bends I had laying about. This experience, while painful (many many cuts to my delicate indoor typing fingers) was successful, and the joiners now hold their shape under vacuum.


So.. next on the list.. going to see my chap tomorrow to make a plan for the exhaust. Once that's freed up and the wideband installed, wire in the AIT sensor and head to the tuner for road and dyno tuning.

I have no idea what it'll make. It made 90wkw before with lots of things wrong. I don't want to put any unrealistic figures in my head, but I feel like the intercooler and exhaust should free up a good about of, specially top end power.

More to come so stay tuned (assuming anyone is still tuned?)

[CrankyOldMan]

Definitely staying tuned!

[iwanttobeamole]

A little update. We've started on the exhaust and found that the megan Racing headers I had put on the car some 5+ years ago have not aged well. Lots of cracks in the runners and welds, so now I'm either in the market for a new set of headers, or failing that maybe we can use the main flange and rebuild the manifold.
If anyone has a line on a decent exhaust manifold that's going to last more than a few years I'm all ears. All the old shops I used for parts in the past seem to have closed (mirco image etc)

Really hoping to get something underway before christmas.

[iwanttobeamole]

Here's what the old headers look like



In the interest of getting something sorted before the end of the year I've ordered a new set of "OBX" headers from ebay which look like they rolled off the same assembly line as these.

One other thing I noticed is that the port alignment with these headers was TERRIBLE. approx 5-6mm out at one end of the flange, so that won't have been helping.
Will be checking the alignment on the new set before we install them.

ETA Dec 6-30th. Gotta love living at the bottom of the world (hey well.. least we don't have any Covid down here)

[mannycheckers]

Those headers look toast! Let me know what you think of the OBX headers. I have been looking for some aftermarket headers lately. Many people swear by DC Sports Headers.