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07-01-2012, 02:25 PM | #1 |
DIY: MI Lightweight Pulley
For anyone that's on the fence on how to do this, or just wants some easy printable directions to bring out to the garage/driveway...
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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07-01-2012, 02:31 PM | #2 |
And the non-printer friendly edition:
Quick Overview What Is a Lightweight Crank Pulley? A light weight crank pulley is simply a lightened version of the crank pulley that comes from the factory on a vehicle. On the 1NZ-FE engine, it’s highlighted in red in the illustration below. This pulley is attached to the other three pulleys (to the right on the aforementioned illustration) via a belt.Why Do I Want One? Simply put, it frees up power that the engine was using to keep the heavier OEM pulley spinning. It all comes down to reducing parasitic loss on the engine. Introduction Disclaimer These instructions are merely a guide. I’m not a mechanic, so please use this as I guide at your own risk.Suggested Tools I used the following tools during my install. You may find that other tools my work better for your situation, so feel free to use what is best for you.Installation Time Required 30 – 45 minutes.Installation Lifting and Panel Removal First thing’s first: park your car on a nice even area, and make sure to engage the parking brake. You are going to need to jack up the car on the front passenger side, so chock the rear driver’s side wheel and jack up the car. Make sure to use jack stands for your safety! Alternator Loosening and Belt Removal In order to remove the crank pulley, the accessory belt must be loosened and moved out of the way. To do this, the alternator must be loosened and moved to release tension on the belt. Recall the illustration on page 1. There are two bolts which must be loosened in order to move the alternator which are both highlighted in yellow. Before loosening these two bolts, it is handy to mark the location of the top bolt on the bracket. If you are using a smaller wrench, it may be helpful to use a small piece of pipe to extend the ratchet. Loosen both bolts and then gently press the alternator back towards the engine. The end result of this step is shown in the photo to the right. This will release tension on the belt, and allow it to be moved out of the way.Pulley Removal and Replacement There are a number of different ways to remove the pulley. For this guide, the simple hand tools method will be used. To remove the pulley, have someone hold the pulley in place while you loosen the bolt on the pulley. This can be achieved with several methods: a.) wedge a screwdriver between the pulley and the engine block (don’t use this method on the lightweight pulley!), b) have someone hold the pulley in place by wrapping a shop rag through the pulley, or c) tie a rope between the pulley and the frame to hold it in place.Reassembly Now that you have removed the OEM pulley, you can begin the reassembly process. Reapply your new pulley, ensuring that the pin is lined up and everything is snug. Finger tighten the bolt until tight, then using a torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 95 ft•lbf. Then, run the pulley back around the crank pulley.Functions Check To ensure that everything was done correctly, check the following:
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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07-02-2012, 02:26 AM | #3 |
Excellent DIY writeup!
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04-03-2013, 11:38 AM | #4 |
I am doing this, this evening.
your write-ups are really good. I really like the color coding that you do. How do you do that? is it in paint? photoshop? GIMP? |
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04-03-2013, 07:08 PM | #5 | |
Quote:
Let us know how it works out. (There's a thread here that you just got it, amiright?) I used Paint.NET, which is similar to GIMP and/or Photoshop, but Windows only.
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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04-03-2013, 09:28 PM | #6 |
I've actually been meaning to ask. I saw the one you did also on the under hood short shifter. Part of it was so that I could tag the thread and just go to user CP and find this thread quickly when I went to do the install (shameful, I know).
The install went without a hitch. I didn't have a torque wrench so I had to wait until my buddy could help. He has a huge one (torque wrench, that is). All in all, not too bad. |
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04-03-2013, 11:14 PM | #7 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Wow,, that is one big torque wrench!
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04-04-2013, 05:06 PM | #8 |
Dobbiedoo
Drives: 2009 5 door Hb Yaris Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Stoughton,Ma
Posts: 36
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How much HP does it free up, and where do you et one?
Thanks |
04-04-2013, 07:29 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2012 Grey Toyota Yaris SE Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 261
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It doesn't really add HP but it seems like acceleration is a lot better. I just got it installed yesterday with my tanabe exhaust and when i just step on the gas a little bit it pulls and its awsome! here's the link for the pulley! http://shop.microimageonline.com/MI-...LWCP-Yaris.htm
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04-04-2013, 07:36 PM | #10 | ||
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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Quote:
Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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04-07-2013, 04:46 AM | #11 |
Drives: no car Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: LA
Posts: 42
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Hey beef,
After installing the pulley, do you notice any squeaky sounds? |
04-07-2013, 07:26 AM | #12 |
I did have to pull the alternator back farther than the mark that I made for realignment but I did not notice any squeaking. I figure my belt had streched some over time (30,000 miles but 4-5 years old on original belt) but it does not squeak. I was concerned about that as others had said that it makes a squeaking noise.
So far, so good. No weird noises or hiccups. |
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04-07-2013, 11:57 AM | #13 |
Only Happy When it Rains
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most belts will need to be adjusted after install. Mine was horrid. After adjusting it was perfect.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
04-29-2013, 12:20 AM | #14 |
Drives: toyota yaris Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 15
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does the new lighter weight pulley do damage because it absorbs less vibration?
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04-29-2013, 03:56 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 5spd sedan Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 137
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Awesome write up! I planned on doing this mod and installing it myself. Thanks a ton!
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04-29-2013, 01:24 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2009 yaris 2 door Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: richmond TX.
Posts: 232
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mpg
does this give ya anymore MPG ? anybody who has already done it confirm or seen any difference in MPG?
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04-29-2013, 03:25 PM | #17 | |
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Depends on how you drive though, and a lot of other factors, I'm sure.
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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04-29-2013, 03:50 PM | #18 |
Takes corners too fast!
Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 830
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no, 4 cylinder engines are balanced vertically and don't have the need for a harmonic balancer like many "V" type engines. it wont hurt your engine unless you install it incorrectly.
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mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood |
Tags |
diy, light weight, microimage, pdf, pulley |
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