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01-13-2014, 10:22 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris LE Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 43
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2010 Toyota Yaris HB
I'm just about finiziling my purchase for my HB.
Couple questions before I feel ripped off. Should I take the rust proofing for the vehicle. Its an additional $600. I don't know of these cars come rust proofed already when they are originally sold but with 55km I can't imagine it was driven very much anyway (1 owner) Extended warranty (from Toyota). 3 year coverage for everything but engine and transmission for $1000. If I want it included its $1600 for the 3 years. Thank everyone. |
01-13-2014, 11:28 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Up there rust proofing may not be a bad idea. I have been rebuilding an 07 that lived in Ohio and am pretty amazed as to how much rust there is on the underside. There was one really bad spot where one of the floor plugs was out of position and it allowed the road salt to soak into the padding under the carpet, rusting the area from above and below.
Extended warranties are always a gamble. Theoretically with such a reliable vehicle you should not need it, but being pre-owned, you never know how the original owner treated it.
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01-14-2014, 12:45 PM | #3 | |
Drives: No more Yaris Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montana
Posts: 180
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Quote:
It's been years since I've considered Ziebart or Tuff-Kote - which once were the titans of the biz. Mostly, what they did was cause OTHER kinds of rust - their compounds would prevent open surface rust but cause it in crevasses and seams. At the time (1970s) they wouldn't warranty a job on a car on the road more than three months (some exceptions made on examination). Round about that time polymer coats and hot-dips started making inroads; and both those companies shriveled to irrelevance. But the point seemed to be, do it new or not at all. |
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01-14-2014, 01:08 PM | #4 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
My thought on rustproofing a non new car is to ensure that all existing rust has been treated and then to apply something that will prevent the paint from wearing away while also avoiding plugging any areas intended for drainage. I agree on the Ziebart and Tuff-Kote issues, having witnessed them first hand back in the day. Cars were also built differently back then, where they had many areas that ended up trapping water. My 72 Plymouth Scamp was a great example of that. Every single Scamp/Duster from that era had the big rot through spot, right behind the rear wheels, due to a seam that would plug up and hold water.
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01-22-2014, 06:26 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris LE Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 43
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Thank you everyone for your input.
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03-01-2014, 05:31 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 163
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Quote:
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03-02-2014, 09:13 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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In my experience its leaving the windows down and getting water in the interior thats the REAL problem.
The outside of almost all the cars Ive owned is pretty much impervious to rust. Even a 1974 VW Beetle I owned in upstate NY! Rain in the interior did it in after 250,000 miles... Then again Ive lived for 30 years in NJ....
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04-03-2014, 12:56 AM | #8 |
Drives: White Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 85
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How much did you get it for? My 07 Yaris paint has been chipping badly in the front.
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