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11-06-2016, 09:12 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Photo: Sparkpluug After 136000 Miles
I got the plugs out of my wifes 05 Camry by following the advice of this excellent forum: warm the engine up first. Piece of cake. Its hard to believe how stuck they were with the engine cold. The plugs have 136k on them.
Therefore I am withdrawing my advice to anti seize the plugs of your car if you plan to leave them in for 100+k miles. Heres a pic of one of the plugs. Gap was 040 I think new is 032. Engine didnt start or run any better that I could tell. If it was my car Id regap and reinstall them.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
11-06-2016, 10:57 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2015Yaris, Son's car, 10 Prius Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 182
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no antiseize with NGK
If you use anti-seize you could over torque your plugs. Not even necessary with NGK plugs.
"NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage." https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ut-spark-plugs |
11-06-2016, 11:26 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 yaris L Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Indiana
Posts: 77
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When steel is in contact with aluminum it causes a chemical reaction, causing the aluminum to corrode and the steel to rust.
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11-06-2016, 11:34 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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When the engine was cold you could NOT get them out, plating or no plating.
Very easy if the engine is warmed up.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
11-06-2016, 10:41 PM | #5 |
Drives: Sedan 07 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Asia
Posts: 478
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Dont use antiseize. Just torque them 1/4 turn after its on there tight.
With this you can remove them cold now. Try to avoid removing them warm, as aluminum heads of newer engines are more prone to loosethread than iron heads. Sent from my G9208SS using Tapatalk |
11-06-2016, 11:06 PM | #6 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I don't know how tight you guys torque your plugs, but with the temp changes an engine experiences I've always anti seized my plug and just hand tighten down lightly. Never even close to issue of stripping from over tightening.
I've yet to come across anyone having an issue of fouling plugs from using anti seize. I've heard the story before form manufacturers about not needing to lubricate their parts because of some unicorn coating only to have them seize solid. I'm going with my gut and past experience on this one. I also tend to remove plugs cold to reduce risk of thread damage on the soft head.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
11-07-2016, 08:36 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Hand tighten aniseized plugs with an easy does it force makes sense.
Using a torque wrench with same is asking for it. If hot removal can damage the threads then I'm for antiseize/cold removal. But I had no trouble with hot removal/no antiseize this weekend. Course I have a lot of experience and am cautious. Best thing I think is remove the 125k plugs before 125k! Then you can go cold/no antiseize
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