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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 Yaris 3 Dr Super White Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: SoFloYo
Posts: 259
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That would be my first choice. I had a Ford Focus with a 2.0 liter Ztec. It had 130 hp and weighed 2600 lbs. If I ciuld put a 1.8 in and get 136 hp to start off with in a 2300-2400 lbs. car, that would be perfect. A few mods might net 160 hp which is mot far off from 1980's Porsche 911 territory. Those early 80's SC's had 180 hp and weighed in at around 2300 lbs from what I remember. Granted they had a lot more torque but it could be very satisfying.
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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one thing I'm finding out is anything greater than 125 hp on the Yaris gives you mad right wheel spin on anything above 70 percent (approx) throttle in first gear.
I'll let you know how it goes once I run UHP rubber next summer, but from a stop I can no longer go WOT...well I can but my right tire starts smoking. An LSD and proper UHP rubber would do the trick. I do agree that a s/c is an easier route to go than turbo, but the issue still arises with trying to make the Yaris happily see boost and not go nuts. Sure, a piggy back is an option but based on how damn encrypted ther Toyota ecu's are, it becomes virtually impossible to do without pulling the O2 sensor (which gives you a CEL) so that you're running in open loop constantly. Hate to say it but Toyota's are not tuner friendly...they are however damn reliable...hence why ther 2zr swap is probably easily the best option to get to 140 whp (bolt ons) Best solution is to run a standalone ECU buit that isn't an option for most of us who use our Yaris as a DD and have e tests. The standalone would however allow you to get the most out of the engine
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 5dr LE (deceased), 13 Soul Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,809
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Back in the YW early years we had a spell where every couple months someone was installing a Blitz kit. For the most part, once properly installed, these units seemed to coexist quite happily with the 1NZ, and were making ~ 140 whp. Biggest issue was the sting of needing premium fuel, and eventual bearing failures for which no service support is available. Nothing beats pure n/a power, but s/c on these engines is viable if one wants to spend the outrageous $$ for new units.
Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 Yaris 3 Dr Super White Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: SoFloYo
Posts: 259
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Well, I'm definitely interested in the 2ZR swap, however I might wait to see if anyone else does it first. That and I only have 28k on my current engine so it's not really justifiable in my wife's eyes... haha
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, Canada
Posts: 259
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If you can find a used supercharger kit in good shape, it's a great option. I bought my kit (used) 4 or 5 years ago now...I think I paid 1500+ shipping. If you get it properly tuned, it will give you many years of reliable fun. It has survived a bunch of track time too ... although I probably would have lost my mind if I didn't install an LSD
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05' Echo Hatch - Greddy Supercharger - rear disc |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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GET YERSELF A 12 VOLT LEAFBLOWER HOOKED INLINE ?
KIDDING. SAW SOMEONE DO THAT TO A CAPRICE AND THOUGHT IT FUNNY.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Red Toyota Yaris Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MN
Posts: 76
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Quote:
A "bolt-on" forced induction system isn't going to be reliable without the correct management in place. If you can't do an engine swap, I'd doubt that you want to take on the hassle of a forced induction setup. You could always do something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBB3xFqBUCU though I'd highly recommend not... Kits come and go every once in a while, just keep checking the FS threads or else you can always refer to the link above and have a go at it. |
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#8 |
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Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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Going turbo on the 1nz especially in the Yaris chassis is a loaded discussion. There are those that will tell you all day long that you can get away with only for example the FIC from AEM for basic management. I disagree. The best upgrade I made other than going turbo was moving to the EMSv2.
Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 135
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Every once in a while I wonder how 140-150hp would feel in my Yaris, but then I think about the added headaches and the possibility of losing reliability and I remember that I live in NYC and there's either stop sign or red light every other block and then I remember, that this is a momentum car anyway, so it doesn't need more hp.
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