Removing paneling back hatchback permanently

[kimona]

Originally Posted by Pinchlite

After removing everything I decided to remove brakelight (Top back window)

There are wires wrapped in thick plastic that was rattling against metal. I ziptied that sucker and issue resolved.

Whodathunkit? Mystery solved. Good for you. Rattles can be annoying.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by kimona

Whodathunkit? Mystery solved. Good for you. Rattles can be annoying.

Yesss..so much more pleasant.Its nice to drive with no stereo know and then and just hear the motor,road and wind.

[dogsridewith]

I replaced one hatch strut. Under 30. USD w/ short wait at a local Advanced Auto Parts. (Toyota parts counter guy said "It's expensive" before looking up--140.) Looks just like original. (I think brand is OEM?) left and right same part #, but different # for rear wiper cars. Existing struts marked L and R. (so the rod is rotated right for quick assembly?)

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by dogsridewith

I replaced one hatch strut. Under 30. USD w/ short wait at a local Advanced Auto Parts. (Toyota parts counter guy said "It's expensive" before looking up--140.) Looks just like original. (I think brand is OEM?) left and right same part #, but different # for rear wiper cars. Existing struts marked L and R. (so the rod is rotated right for quick assembly?)

Not hatch strut rattling afterall.When fully compressed with door closed there is no way for it to rattle.Back door panel is off and inspected.On the bottom middle of door is a latch assembly silver in metal parts.This mechanism is loose but is desighned this way.Again its a plsatic on metal noise or plastic on plastic.I have driven with all plastic removed and still noise.I will have to tear down entire back removing everything except what keeps the car running to see what it is.Its enough to make me want to sell car and never buy a yaris again.I really cant drive it and dont unless absolutely necessary.And when I do I unlatch/decouple the door latch and drive it like that.I may have to take to dealer and see if they can find the issue.

[FunctionSpec]

Check these two points. Mounts can feel sold but if not completely flush against the liftback, the strut will rub against the body when closed (I used rubber pads to stop the rubbing but the struts tore right through them). You'll see wear marks on the body. There's only a small amount of clearance.

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by FunctionSpec

Check these two points. Mounts can feel sold but if not completely flush against the liftback, the strut will rub against the body when closed (I used rubber pads to stop the rubbing but the struts tore right through them). You'll see wear marks on the body. There's only a small amount of clearance.

I looked that over and no aparent chaffing.The mounts are a bit rusted but solid and not pried away.

I am going to take it in and get it checked by a pro.Its something inside the car,not outside.I have totally removed the entire back plastic,everything except ceiling.The onlt time rattle is not there is with hatch open driving.I tried on desertred road.Its not all that loud but a tingling sound.The road doesnt have to be bumpy,just any average road even any little disturbance in pavement.If the dealer cant find then i will remove lock mechanism totally as well as the wiper components and just have a bare door to see what happens.I have had shittier built cars then this without this nonsense.

p.s the backseats are already out along with all seatbelt hardware.

[dogsridewith]

what about the bit of play between the four balls and the four sockets of the two struts? post said hinges were checked. one looks a bit rusty dry. a hinge rattle got me to do front struts and LCA ball joints on my 91 Corolla, but last rattle is still there...75 % sure it is driver's door hinge(s)...only door that can be moved up and down a bit when opened(by lifting up and down at the latch end of the door). in fact, could make rattle go away by holding door open a few inches.
what about play somewhere inside a hatch strut? with as much as has been done tracing this, why not some driving w/ no struts. Warning! Something like a broomstick handle will get used here to hold the hatch open (as with replacing one weak strut). If it slips out at the wrong time, the hatch could crush a hand or head or something.

[dogsridewith]

This thread made me a cartoon picture of a fellow in a totally stripped Yaris hatch--no doors, hood, hatch, windows, interior or seats--driving along sitting on a milk crate w/ a big happy smile, captioned: "Yipee. Squeaks and rattles ALL GONE."

(Interesting that unlatching the hatch stopped the wire harness rattle.)

[Pinchlite]

Originally Posted by dogsridewith

This thread made me a cartoon picture of a fellow in a totally stripped Yaris hatch--no doors, hood, hatch, windows, interior or seats--driving along sitting on a milk crate w/ a big happy smile, captioned: "Yipee. Squeaks and rattles ALL GONE."

(Interesting that unlatching the hatch stopped the wire harness rattle.)

I Have no idea but as soon as wire was secured with ziptie that plasticky tickity sound is gone.

[spookybathtub]

I’ve been struggling to identify the rattles in the rear of my 07 hatchback. I’m glad I found this thread, as it gives me some more places to check. It’s infuriating. It’s very hard to reproduce the rattle while the car is not in motion.

[ACKING_QC]

me it's the 3rd brake light plastic that started rattling so what I did is I went to my local McDonald's and bought a Great Angus Trio...made sure to KEEP the receipt because that is what I put there, no more ralltes and it's not even visible ! lol