Mirror turn signals 3rd gen wiring ?

[NYC-SE]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

how much did both covers run u shipped ?

does it come pre-painted ?

thanks

I paid $74.44 total, including shipping. Yes they come pre painted. Find your 2 digit paint code and put that where the XX in the part numbers are.

[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by NYC-SE

I paid $74.44 total, including shipping. Yes they come pre painted. Find your 2 digit paint code and put that where the XX in the part numbers are.

when will you plan to install ?

thanks :)

[NYC-SE]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

when will you plan to install ?

I was hoping to tackle it next week but something came up and it looks like I won't have the time. It's not beyond my abilities but electricity is my weak spot so I want to give myself a nice block of time to do this in case I screw something up. This is my only car and I need it to get to work. I don't want to have it in pieces with the clock ticking. Haste makes waste and all that.

Unfortunately I have a lot going on in August, a couple of road trips and several "have to" attend events, so it looks like it will be the end of August or maybe even the beginning of September before I can get the time to do this.

I will update this thread when it's done.

[ucsmfu]

I am looking to buy the parts and attempting to install, loll

[NYC-SE]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

I am looking to buy the parts and attempting to install, loll

You will probably beat me to it. For sure I'm not going to have any time until Sept. Good luck.

[Potato2012]

I'm looking to do this on my 2014 Yaris LE. Please post anything else you find helpful with installation, and definitely some finished photos. I hope to get everything and installed within 2months.

[ucsmfu]

was so busy in the summer, haven't even had time to purchase the parts yet, NYc-SE, just wondering if you had a chance to tackle it yet.

[NYC-SE]

Not yet. Crazy busy, spent most of Aug traveling (and working of course). Now it seems everyone is coming to see me. Next week sister, following week cousins, just no time. I HOPE to get it done by end of the month. Fingers crossed.

[ucsmfu]

Originally Posted by NYC-SE

Not yet. Crazy busy, spent most of Aug traveling (and working of course). Now it seems everyone is coming to see me. Next week sister, following week cousins, just no time. I HOPE to get it done by end of the month. Fingers crossed.

awesome, keep us updated, can't wait to see the outcome :)

[ucsmfu]

any updates NYC-SE ?

thanks

[NYC-SE]

Originally Posted by ucsmfu

any updates NYC-SE ?

thanks

Still not done. Don't worry, I promise to update this thread when it is, just don't know when that's going to be. No time. Too much "real life" going on at the moment.

[NYC-SE]

I finally had a couple of free days with no commitments this week so I was able to complete the mirror turn signal installation. Everything looks and works perfectly. Looks like it came from the factory like this. I am very pleased with the result but I must say this project was a beast. My hands and fingers are covered in cuts and my back and sides are bruised from lying on the door sill as my head was under the dash. I feel like I went 12 rounds with the champ.

It took me 2 full days. Granted I was not working every second of that time. A lot of time was spent figuring out how to proceed after hitting a roadblock. Trying and trying again to get that wire past an obstacle until finally giving up and figuring out how to remove said obstacle. Learning as I went and being somewhat timid about taking the next step, afraid that I might damage something along the way. "Should I really be yanking on this this hard?"..."Something else must be holding it"...Stop...Inspect...No..."Yank harder and hope nothing breaks"...Repeat. There was a lot of that. Eventually I wound up removing the glove box, the under panel on the drivers side and the drivers knee airbag, various electrical connections, etc. Even then there was very limited area in which to work but I got it done. Someone who is more skilled with interior removal would probably have knocked it out much quicker.

I wound up using the eBay wiring harness I mentioned in an earlier post. I was going back and forth as to if I should but my cheap bastard nature got the better of me. "Hey I spent good money for this. Why should I pay for something else?" That was my first mistake. I was already concerned with the fuse placement, (they are behind the door card), but I figured I could live with it. What I wasn't prepared for was that the passenger side harness wound up being too short. It looked pretty long (I didn't measure it) but by the time I snaked it through, over and around everything I was under the upper part of the driver side dash with no more wire. I had to splice an excess piece from the drivers side harness in. Of course there was no space to maneuver and I could barely see what I was doing but somehow I managed to make the splice. There was no way I was going to pull it back after fighting for hours to get it to that point.

I can also confirm that the Toyota Japan mirror covers fit perfectly.

And last but not least a big thank you to CTScott for providing the wiring information so I could hook these up. Everything was on the money. (Would there be any doubt when CTScott is involved?) Thank you.

Please ignore the dirty car and focus your attention on the light emanating from the mirror. (Crappy pic I know.)

[NYC-SE]

If anybody is going to do this mod I thought I'd offer some info:

There is a thread over on the Toyota Nation forum where some guys were doing this on their Camrys. That should serve as your primary tutorial. The majority of the info there works for the Yaris as well. I will point out where things differ and what pitfalls to beware of. Post #89 by graf3x has lots of photos and good info. Start there.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/31...ml#post4014010

The first difference is the part numbers for the mirror covers. For the Yaris the part numbers are:

87915-52140-XX Right side

87945-52140-XX Left side

The XX is for the color code

Toyota USA does not sell these covers. You have to source them from a Japanese or European supplier. I bought mine from here:

http://www.jp-carparts.com/

Beware of eBay knock offs. ucsmfu, a fellow Yarisworld member, tried that route and they did not fit.

The second issue you are going to have is finding electrical connectors that fit the turn signals. Toyota does not sell them, in fact no part number exists for them. You can try a junk yard (look for Prius C connectors) but I found salvage yards only wanted to sell the entire mirror assembly.

You can try the silicone rtv trick detailed in the Toyota Nation post but if you MUST have real connectors the only place I found to buy them was eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIT-TOYOTA-C...item1c505a167c

Unfortunately you cannot just buy the connectors (I tried) but have to purchase the signals and harness as well. The signals are fine. In fact they are indistinguishable from the actual Toyota ones. The wiring harness however is useless. Read my discussion of it on the previous post. Main problem is that it is too short. Don't use it, instead I recommend 20 AWG stranded wire.

The tools needed are the same except the wire fishing tool is NOT optional. You will need something fairly rigid but still bendable. I used picture frame wire. Just be sure to take any sharp edges off the end or cover it with tape. You will be poking it in tight spaces where you can't see, you don't want to tear a hole in any wires (or anything else).

As to the procedure:

1. Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the battery. You will be plugging, unplugging and splicing into all sorts of connectors. You will screw things up if you try to do this live.

2. He recommends doing this with the window down. Good advice because it prevents you from inadvertently running wires in the path of the window. HOWEVER there is so little room to work in the door frame of the Yaris that with the window down you will be unable to get your hand in there. It's tight enough with the window up. I did it with the window up. Just be very aware of the path you run the wires.

3. He also recommends removing the door speakers. Also good advice. Unfortunately as has been previously mentioned on this forum the speakers on the Yaris are riveted in. You would have to drill out the rivets. I did it with the speakers in. If anybody is planning to do this mod AND a speaker upgrade do both at the same time. It will be easier that way.

4. Remove door panel. Similar to as described. After the armrest is disconnected and 3 screws removed, pry and PULL HARD.

5. Remove mirror. Same.

6. Install signals and wiring in mirror housing. Same. I did have to remove the mirror glass though. It is hinged at top. Pull up and out from bottom of glass. The reason I had to remove the glass is because I could not get the signals to snap into place. By removing the glass I was able to manipulate the locking tabs with a flat screwdriver.

7. Reinstall mirror and wire thru door. This is where things get interesting. MAKE SURE you are out of the way of the window's path.

8. Now you want to run the wires thru the rubber boot between the door and the car body. Easier said than done. IMHO the best way to do this is to remove the kick panels, unplug all the connectors going thru that boot so you have some slack to work with, then remove the boot from the door and the car body. Just pull hard on the boot. After everything is free try to align the boot as close to vertical as possible and fish the wires thru using your fishing tool. Again be careful, you don't want to damage any of the other wires in there. You will get frustrated. DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR at anytime the boot is disconnected or you will cut the exposed wires. Seems obvious I know but I almost did it. Got everything thru? Good, now reinstall the boot RIGHT NOW before you forget the boot is disconnected and try to close the door. (Which is what I almost did.)

9. Once thru the boot you can connect your ground wire to the grounding bolt in the kick panel. Use a 1/4" ring terminal.

10. Now you want to run the hot wire over to the body ECU under the driver side dash. It is as far left and as low as you can go. It is behind the dash panel with the little "shelf" in it. The driver side is easy. You are practically there once you're in the kick panel. The passenger side is a royal PITA. After much trial and error this is what I did.
a) Remove the glove box. Disconnect damper on side, push sides toward each other at top and pull out.
b) Remove panel under driver's dash where TMPS reset is located. 2 screws and a couple of tabs, and electrical connector.
c) Remove driver's knee airbag. 4 bolts and you have to partially remove the cover to access one of them, and electrical connector.
d) Remove body ECU cover panel. Pull up towards you.

Do all this before you start fishing the wire over. It will give you some space to work with but things are still very tight and you will be working blind in some spots. Follow the general path outlined in the Toyota Nation post. Basically you want to stay away from anything sharp or hot or moving. Zip tie every few inches. Use your fishing tool to get thru the places you can't reach. You will get frustrated.

11. If you are going to install fuses I would do it closer to the body ECU wherever you can find space. (I did not do this because I used the crappy eBay harness I told you not to use and the fuses are located closer to the mirrors)

12. Make the connections. CTScott has a detailed description and pictures of where to tap earlier in this thread. Read it. Read it again. Basically you want the 3C block which is the lowest block on the body ECU. The left signal is the green wire coming from pin 28. The right signal is the pink wire coming from pin 38. I estimate the wires you are tapping to be 22 AWG. I used Posi-Tap connectors to make the connection.

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

You can use Scotch Locks or T-taps if you prefer.

I have a picture showing my connections and ground point at end of this post.

13. Reinstall everything you removed. When reinstalling the kick panels take care that you do not crush your ground wire. There is a hole just below the ground bolt that the kick panel clips into. You want to make sure that your ground wire is clear of that hole. (Ask me how I know.) Double check that all the electrical connectors you removed are properly reinstalled before you reconnect the battery.

14. Test it out. It works? Hallelujah!

It's just that simple, lol. Give yourself a lot of time to do this. The guy at Toyota Nation said he did it in 2 hours. It took me 2 days. YMMV

[NYC-SE]

P.S. If anybody wants to try the silicone connector plug trick that is described in the Toyota Nation thread I have a set of genuine Toyota OEM signals and 4 terminal wires that I am selling in the "Items for Sale" section.

[DarkShadowFox]

is this 2015 compatable.

[NYC-SE]

I would guess so as they are essentially the same. However there is the possibility that the wiring might be different. You would have to get a wiring diagram and trace out the wires at the body ecu. Either that or splice into wires leading to the turn signals on exterior of car.

Otherwise physically everything else is the same.

BTW I still have those signals and wiring for sale.

[DarkShadowFox]

Originally Posted by NYC-SE

I would guess so as they are essentially the same. However there is the possibility that the wiring might be different. You would have to get a wiring diagram and trace out the wires at the body ecu. Either that or splice into wires leading to the turn signals on exterior of car.

Otherwise physically everything else is the same.

BTW I still have those signals and wiring for sale.

i will do this when i swap in my tacho automatic cluster.

and someone helps me of course -w -

[barongan]

Loving this thread! indeed