Is it critical to change coolant at 100K?

[RMcG]

Thanks tmontague and johnwk and others,

I just checked the coolant by dipping my fingers in it and rubbing them together and it definitely feels slippery and oily.

Does anybody else have any suggestions as to the best way to dispose of the old coolant? I want to do this in an environmentally sound way.

Does anybody else have any feelings about using distilled water as a rinse as johnwk suggests?

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by RMcG

Thanks tmontague and johnwk and others,

I just checked the coolant by dipping my fingers in it and rubbing them together and it definitely feels slippery and oily.

Does anybody else have any suggestions as to the best way to dispose of the old coolant? I want to do this in an environmentally sound way.

Does anybody else have any feelings about using distilled water as a rinse as johnwk suggests?

Thanks,

R.

Around here our local municipal recycling centers take coolant for free to avoid people being a$$hats and dumping down the drain. Check online, some auto shops will also take it I have heard.

The only issue with adding water to the system to "flush" it is that you will dilute the coolant down below 50/50 as some water will stay in the system that you cannot fully get out. This may not be a problem depending on how cold your winters get. You can buy a tester for cheap to test your coolant when you are done to see what your freezing point is. I personally do this as I use a 10/90 coolant/water mixture in the summer for track use and a 55/45 coolant/water mixture in the winter. I test it to make sure my coolant can handle a bad cold snap throughout the winter.

IMO since you are just replacing Toyota coolant with comparable stuff I don't see a reason to need to flush it out or run water through it. I typically recommending doing that if the car has been given the wrong coolant, or if the coolant looks contaminated with debris or has been in use for way too long.

FWIW most owners never actually change their coolant unless their car breaks down and they need to. Even with this, Toyota's still seem to do well and run ok long term

[johnwk]

You can take the old coolant (and dirty distilled water) back to the auto parts store. They will dispose of it for free.

[RMcG]

Thanks to everybody, especially tmontague. I think all my questions have been answered.

R.

[komichal]

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

[Mike Dexter]

Originally Posted by komichal

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

I second this. Once per year, radiator drain and refill only. Then you are frequently cycling new coolant through, with little cost & time invested. In my experience, Toyota's are not very sensitive to whether or not you use OEM coolant. I use Zerex brand in my Yaris.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by komichal

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

good points - although I never understood everyone saying to put the heat on high. All this does is move the flap so the air passess over the heater core instead of bypassing it. This has no effect on coolant running through the heater core.

Have there been some past cars that had some sort of coolant heater core by pass when the hvac is set to cold air only?


It seems that a handful of manufacturers have come out with Toyota specific (Asian brand) coolant in the last couple years. Originally when I purchased my Yaris around 5 or so years ago, there really wasn't much options for aftermarket coolant other than green "universal" unicorn tears.

[komichal]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Have there been some past cars that had some sort of coolant heater core by pass when the hvac is set to cold air only?

I used to drive some older Mitsubishi and it really used to have some electric-controlled valves that enabled or disabled the coolant flow through the heatcore. It is probably pointless for Yaris, you are right. It is just an old habit that does nothing wrong on some cars and does something right for other cars. :)

[RMcG]

Is this Valvoline Zerex ZEREX DEX-COOL acceptable for a 2008 Yaris? Here is an Amazon link. ? Based on looking at the owner's manual, it looks like it is compatible.

I have also attached a screenshot that shows a check by compatibility with 2008 Toyota Yaris.

Here below is detailed information on the composition:

Valvoline ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is a patented* carboxylate formulation with a service life of up to five years or 150,000 miles. It incorporates state-of-the-art organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base for protection of all cooling system metals including aluminum. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is approved by General Motors to the GM 6277M specification. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant contains no phosphates, silicates, borates, nitrates, amines and nitrites. It can be mixed with any DEX-COOL and is approved by Opel, Dae Woo and Saab. It is dyed orange to distinguish its unique chemistry from traditional green and yellow silicate coolants. When diluted 50% with water, ZEREX DEX-COOL protects modern engine components from winter freezing and summer boiling. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is storage stable for up to five years as both a concentrate or diluted with water. It contains a high quality defoamer and will not harm gaskets, hoses, plastics or original vehicle paint. Call 1-800- TEAM-VAL with questions. ZEREX DEX-COOL is formulated to meet or exceed the following antifreeze specifications and/or is recommended: ASTM D3306 SAE J1034, J814 SAE J1941 GM 6277M DEX-COOL APPROVED Siemens Wind Turbines Ford WSS-M97B44-D Saab, Opel Approved Scania, Volvo TMC of ATA RP-302B Federal Specification A-A-870A Navistar CEMS B-1 Type IIIA

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by RMcG

Here is an Amazon link. ? Based on looking at the owner's manual, it looks like it is compatible.

Here below is detailed information on the composition:

Valvoline ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is a patented* carboxylate formulation with a service life of up to five years or 150,000 miles. It incorporates state-of-the-art organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base for protection of all cooling system metals including aluminum. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is approved by General Motors to the GM 6277M specification. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant contains no phosphates, silicates, borates, nitrates, amines and nitrites.

The owner's manual says to use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or a similar high-quality ethylene glycol-based, nonsilicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology.

It looks like this Zerex formulation meets the requirements, but I am interested in what others think. One of my doubts is that this Zerex formulation is orange and what I have in the car is pink.

Thanks,

R.

[zoidberg444]

I use the long life Toyota coolant mate. I'm to suspicious of other coolant brands to risk it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by zoidberg444

I use the long life Toyota coolant mate. I'm to suspicious of other coolant brands to risk it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Thanks for your advice Zoidberg. I appreciate your advice. I read about your trek across Scandanavia. It is impressive.

R.

[tmontague]

As i stated above, this will be fine but you will dilute your new coolant below 50/50 due to the water left in it. Make sure you test your coolant's freezing point once you swap it out

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

As i stated above, this will be fine but you will dilute your new coolant below 50/50 due to the water left in it. Make sure you test your coolant's freezing point once you swap it out

Thanks tmontague. I did indeed read your previous post about how you run different dilutions and I am aware that the freezing and boiling points change with dilution. I was more worried, however, about the effect of dilution on the corrosion inhibitors and the lubricants.

I just bought two gallons at the local Toyota dealer, total cost with tax $50 USD. But my worries about corrosion inhibitors and lubricants may be moot, because according to the information on the coolant bottles, the 50/50 freezing point is only -34 degrees Fahrenheit. That is OK where I live now in the Pacific NW of the US, but if I go back to Montana, it is not OK. Because it can get to 40 below in Montana. I will have to call a Toyota dealership back in Montana and ask them what they sell for coolant.

Thanks,

R.

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by RMcG

... my worries about corrosion inhibitors and lubricants may be moot, because according to the information on the coolant bottles, the 50/50 freezing point is only -34 degrees Fahrenheit. That is OK where I live now in the Pacific NW of the US, but if I go back to Montana, it is not OK. Because it can get to 40 below in Montana. I will have to call a Toyota dealership back in Montana and ask them what they sell for coolant..

A busy airport in Montana recorded a temperature of 39 below zero in March of 2019, so this is not an academic consideration. I called a Toyota Dealer in Fairbanks, Alaska, and they use Toyota brand coolant 00272-LLAC01, which is undiluted. (I think this part number is off by one digit, see below.) It costs $30USD. They dilute this 60/40 with distilled water to get a freezing point of 62 below zero.

I think the actual number is Toyota 00272-1LLAC-01, see this amazon link.

I am not sure if this other part number coolant can be delivered to a local Toyota dealer here or not. But I will call tomorrow and find out.

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

I've used Recochem in diluted in every toyota I have ever owned with zero issues. The ingredients are virtually identical.

I mix my own coolant depending in what car it is going in (60/40 for my sis in laws yaris when she was up North for school, 50/50 for my Vibe and my yaris in the winter and 10/90 with amsoil coolant booster for my yaris during track season

Use it with confidence

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I've used Recochem in diluted in every toyota I have ever owned with zero issues. The ingredients are virtually identical.

I mix my own coolant depending in what car it is going in (60/40 for my sis in laws yaris when she was up North for school, 50/50 for my Vibe and my yaris in the winter and 10/90 with amsoil coolant booster for my yaris during track season

Use it with confidence

I just want to double-check, the dilution recipes call for diluting with "de-ionized water." Most of the de-ionized water sold on Amazon is pretty expensive, e.g., > $20USD per gallon. One of the Toyota dealers I talked to said they used distilled water (much cheaper ~ 1 USD per gallon).

QUESTION: Is using distilled water for dilution OK?

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

I used deionized because it is sold at my local Canadian tire but clearly states it is not potable. Distilled will be fine, iirc distilled has a slightly higher amount of dissolver salts still in it but it is a moot amount. Plus your coolant ratio is so high that you could use hard tap water and be fine as the coolant is meant to help with that issue