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06-28-2020, 06:47 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 23
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AMR500 build at 233k miles.
Hey ya'll, been doing my research and pricing parts to build a supercharger set up on 1nzfe. Need some advice please, new to the forced induction scene..
1) Is it possible to manufacture a mount for the Aisin AMR without deleting any A/C components? Could I find a slightly longer belt and mount the AMR500 with belt tensioners? 2) If I remember correctly I found a thread saying the 1nz-fe internals are good up to about 12psi? Would I be safe running about 6-9psi without fear of blowing up the engine?(What size pulley would be needed to run 6-9psi?) 3) Lastly, I saw a youtube video where this guy had a recirculating BOV, would that be a good investment? 4) Not interested in the AEM FIC after seeing multiple problematic threads. Trying to decide between Apexi Super AFC NEO and Emanage Ultimate. Need help deciding, not sure which would be better. Thanks, ya'll! |
06-28-2020, 06:49 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 23
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Picture is a Fiat Punto posted by JoniK on youtube. The polished tube on the right is where the BOV is located, assuming right before his TB.
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06-29-2020, 04:54 PM | #3 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Being the owner of a Yaris that's seen both the Blitz supercharger and a 2ZR swap, I always advocate the swap instead of trying to add boost. It's simpler overall and gives you all of that sweet, sweet Toyota OEM reliability.
That said, I love seeing other people try new things and push the limits! Quick answers to your questions: 1. Possible? Maybe. Difficult? Absolutely. Engineering/fabricating will be required. 2. It's more about controlling detonation than just straight PSI. I think the record is still held by Garm and his forged/sleeved 1NZ around 35 psi. Pulley size can be calculated but will probably require empirical testing. 3. Not sure, the Blitz used a magnetic clutch so it didn't need a BOV. 4. No experience with either. Some additional info that might be useful: * The Blitz uses an Ogura TX-07 compressor, which is 700 cc/rev. The AMR500 is (presumably) 500 cc/rev. You'd need some pulley diameter math to get the same performance out of that little thing, possibly pushing the bearings beyond their rated RPM. The Blitz kit was only good for about 6 psi (7 if you didn't mind shearing off bolts from belt tension) so you'd be a fair bit lower than that assuming pulley diameters are comparable. You won't be able to get anywhere near 12 psi on that compressor without some serious wizardry/engineering, so it's a moot point if the 1NZ can handle it. * You'd have to come up with some creative plumbing to get the compressor on the accessory belt and not interfere with the alternator, AC compressor or intake manifold. The Blitz uses a custom cast intake manifold that acts as a structural mounting point for the compressor, cast tubes to get to the OEM throttle body location, and a bracket that relocates the alternator. * The pulley on the Blitz uses a non-standard spline interface instead of the more common tapered & keyed interface. I was unable to find anything that had the same interface so I was stuck with what I had. Depending on what type the Aisin uses, you may have a hard time finding a different pulley that fits. * The ECU will fight you all the way. The Blitz kit used a janky piggyback that would force open-loop (i.e. dump all the fuel) mode when the compressor was on and still needed bigger injectors to keep from running lean. That forced the ECU to pull fuel trims for closed-loop (i.e. computer is in control) mode and would eventually end up going lean as well. I didn't attempt to use a more serious controller but would likely go with something like a MegaSquirt if I were to attempt it again. |
06-30-2020, 02:55 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 23
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I've been interested in swapping, my only concern is lack of tools/experience. I could do the research but my mindset was to modify the 1NZ until it could satisfy my lust, and if I ruined it then it would be time to start saving for a 2ZR from MWR. Also for a relatively similar price point as a low-mileage 2ZR, I could squeeze an extra 20-30hp out of an Aisin, so my goal is about 150 on the 1NZ. And when it goes boom, I can swap in a 2ZR and try to remount the AMR500. :)
Back to the plan, Aisin is rated up to about 16500rpm, forums say they can endure up to 17000+ rpm. But you are correct at 500cc/rev. The Aisin is sold with 5 different pulleys to choose from, 1 as a V-pulley and 4 sizes of keyed pulleys. I've done some calculations on Performance Trends Inc. and found that if I'm able to run it at 2.4x engine speed. then I could achieve 12.45psi approx.(assuming barometric pressure is 14.7, & SC and Engine are both 80% efficient) Thinking I would adjust the ratio to 2.3:1 to avoid wearing the supercharger or exceeding 12psi. Is it really a stretch to think the AMR500 is able to reach 12 psi? I think I'm going to go ahead and go with the Super AFC NEO just because I'm new to tuning and I would like to get my hands on something I can control rather than having to have someone else set up. And if the ECU overwrites every change I make I'll just try to sell it to a golf guy and invest in a standalone. Thank you for the help! I learned a lot from this and many of your other posts! For now, I'm going to take a look at how I could mount the AMR500, without making changes to A/C. |
06-30-2020, 04:01 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 23
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I think the prime place to mount the unit on a Yaris would be right in front of the alternator, using the adjustable mount to secure a strip of 10mm steel to the unit and secure the bottom side of the AMR to the frame with a longer bolt and bolt spacers. I'd need the unit in my hands to be sure and to start fabricating.
But I have to span the build out for budget reasons. Should I start with S/C, intercooler, FM, etc. or should I focus on Bilstein b14 kit, Weapon-R header, and Tanabe Medallion muffler to start with? |
07-04-2020, 12:35 PM | #6 |
Drives: scion xb Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SW KS
Posts: 26
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The 1nzfe out of a scion xb using a belt driven power steering pump on the back of the engine. I really considered mounting a small supercharger back there and running it off the scion xb crank pulley in place of the ps pump. This would be the perfect install to do WITH an intercooler as there would be a fair amount of plumbing involved to get the supercharger hooked to the intake on the front of the engine. I thought a small side mount intercooler tucked into the bumper would be great to get this all plumbed. Though a true front mount intercooler would be fine too. I ended up doing an NA build because i already have a turbo projectin the garage and i did not want to add delay to my 1nz build.
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07-07-2020, 02:23 AM | #7 | |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 23
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Thank you!
Quote:
Also this is hardly relevant, but I found that the Xb was marketed at 108 hp, and my only conculsion is the ECU or some slight changes in the exhaust for 2hp.. |
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