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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic 3 door HB Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Atlanta Georgia
Posts: 419
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Hey guys, I just bought the stuff to do this with.
I got the insulation and the zip-ties, and now I need to get the tape to reflect the heat. I've got a few concerns though... What if moisture gets under the insulation? The pipe won't rust will it? I'm rather worried about the long-term affects. I'll give it a whirl anyway seeing as how nobody has said anything bad about it.
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#2 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 yaris hb Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: ne ct
Posts: 68
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ss Zip ties
I put the insulation on with ss "zip ties" you can get them at harbor freight
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#3 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 2DR Liftback Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N.E., KS
Posts: 115
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I too did this modification, a couple of months ago, in response to the very weak AC performance. Thanks for the idea!
I did the entire suction line, from the firewall to the compressor. I mostly used insulation for 1/2 in. copper tubing (one stick, from Home Depot), but also a little for 3/4 in. on some bigger sections. For even bigger parts, like the in-line accumulator, I had to wrap with two split pieces. There's definitely more cooling capacity, but at the cost of fuel economy. Before I could barely detect a difference in lugging of the engine with the compressor engaged. But now there's a big AC load on the engine. On warm days I now get 40F air, but today, at 105F outside, I only got 52F. And still definitely not enough total cooling capacity even though the supply air is much cooler than before. But much better than no AC at all! In response to some questions/concerns by prior posters, yes, there should be insulation on this line (but do at your own risk). My RAV4 does have some factory-installed insulation for part of the run. And if you have a split-system AC at your house/apartment, look at its large line ("suction"/"vapor") -- it hopefully still has its black foam insulation. But the small line ("pressure"/"liquid") definitely should not have insulation -- the refrigerant is still very hot coming out of the condenser, so losing more heat on its way to the expansion valve is a good thing. Also, yes there is danger in doing this mod. First, lots of sharp edges, etc. under the hood! But there's also a danger that if the system is overcharged, or the AC is operated when too cold outside, that "liquid" refrigerant could enter the compressor and damage/destroy it. The accumulator is there to help prevent this, and I almost left it uninsulated. But I've done AC work, so repairing a system isn't that scary to me, and this insulation mod was intriguing. Glad I did it, so far. You, though, might want to have your refrigerant pressures checked immediately after doing this mod. |
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#4 |
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Is this true? I can't see how insulating a line would actually affect the load of the compressor. It should simply be reducing the lost cooling in the pipes.
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 5-door, 5-speed Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 687
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Quote:
Probably less likely in ridiculously hot/arid places where the evaporator will deal with it. But in humid areas, or more sane temperatures, you may run into this. Cheers. |
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#6 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PNW
Posts: 29
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Quote:
The accumulator is there to prevent any liquid from reentering the compressor, but I guess we'll wait and see if there are a lot of A/C failures reported in the future :) |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Laval, Canada
Posts: 74
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i tried it and it melted , it's a fire hazard from my point of view even with reflecting tape,
if the car burns the insurance won't cover the only solution would be exhaust insulating fabric |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 198
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#9 | |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Quote:
http://www.thesolarshop.eu/acatalog/...nsulation.html |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 2DR Liftback Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: N.E., KS
Posts: 115
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#11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris HB Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central Alabama, GOD BLESS AMERICA
Posts: 755
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I've had mine insulated for 3 years or something now, and left it on during cold season, and have never restricted my use of A/C when cold outside. No problems at all, and the high temperature resistant tape holds up nicely.
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#12 |
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So now that some time has passed since it's first been tried, what I'm taking from this is that there don't seem to be any long term negative effects. Correct?
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 198
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I'm at 2 or 3 years, and no problems here.
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#14 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: California
Posts: 165
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For those of you who first did this mod in 2009, how's it holding up? Any negative effects on the AC system? Foam melting?
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#15 |
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Not quite a noob
Drives: e46 325 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: edmonton
Posts: 1,408
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I did this a year or two ago. The insulation right above the exhaust manifold has melted slightly, otherwise it's help up fine. Didn't REALLY notice a big difference though, but every little bit counts!
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris sedan Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Smithfield va
Posts: 31
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I did this on my car. Aluminum taped rated to 300f. Wrapped the low pressure line over pipe insulation. It is definitely colder now.
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris Sedan 5MT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 865
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Sorry for necroposting.
Can someone entertain some questions? 1.First does anyone have pics from the original post? 2. Has anyone quantified the change? As in a before and after. I realize the OP did it. So I stuck a meat thermometer in various circumstances. 1. Idle with fan at low. 2. Idle with fan at max (4). 3. 3k RPM fan low. 4. 3k RPM fan max (4). 1. Gave me a reading of 44. 2. Gave me 47. 3. gave me 45. 4. gave me 45. ** I'll do the measurements again tomorrow these are off the top of my head. In all scenarios the fan is set to face and the window vents are closed. Thermometer is in the right center vent. *degrees Fahrenheit. 3.I've been reading a lot here and whatever google pulls up for me. It only gets cold after passing through the expansion valve. Where is the expansion valve in our car? 4. That cold piping that people say they are wrapping, isn't that piping that comes out from the evaporator which is the exit flow back to the compressor? Here are some pics form a different member who applied insulation. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...sulating+a%2Fc
__________________
![]() Last edited by rningonfumes; 08-02-2016 at 04:44 AM. |
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#18 | |
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Quote:
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