I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 11 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-30-2010, 09:06 PM

Haha you're making me nervous man. But...

I checked the coolant lines on the turbo and (thankfully) they're leaking. They only seem to leak while the car is in drive though, because during idle there is no smoke. If the engine was overheating, wouldn't it throw the engine hot light? I wish I knew what this CEL was...

I'm still worried about what you're saying though. The smoke does seem to be isolated to behind the engine block, and the exhaust. I'll work on the turbo coolant leak and hopefully all will be resolved.

cdydjded, are you saying it HAS to be this toyota brand coolant? I was using something else, and at this point most of the OEM coolant has leaked out or evaporated.

I'm also still confused about the oil idiot light. What would cause it to come on if the oil level is adequate?

Also if it's of any importance... The car drives absolutely fine currently.

cdydjded · 08-30-2010, 09:04 PM

My .02 cents: the turbo does not need the water lines connected to work properly. It does however need the oil lines. Remove the water lines & drive the car, see if the problem goes away. Next make sure that the coolant level & oil levels are where they need to be. For the coolant, I hope you replaced the coolant you leaked with Toyota coolant? You are aware that is is a special red in color coolant? You do have to have the proper mixture in the radiator. If not you will have temperature issues.

cdydjded · 08-30-2010, 09:10 PM

It does not have to be Toyota brand but it is not ordinary coolant. I have some in my garage I get you more info on what it is & a pic.....

As for the coolant lines, if you can stop the leak, dont use them until all other issues are resolve. It will be 1 less problem you have for now....

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-30-2010, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

It does not have to be Toyota brand but it is not ordinary coolant. I have some in my garage I get you more info on what it is & a pic.....

As for the coolant lines, if you can stop the leak, dont use them until all other issues are resolve. It will be 1 less problem you have for now....

Honestly, I believe this is what I'm down to regarding issues. Oil is finally resolved, and after fooling around with the t-clamps on my coolant lines it appeared that there was definitely less smoke. I'm thinking the bubbling is simply the coolant burning on the turbo. However, the fact that the radiator fan jumps to full power within a couple minutes during idle (I don't think this ever happened before I put this thing in) makes me nervous. cdydjded, I'd greatly appreciate it if you could get me the specs on the coolant. I think I'd prefer to swap it with the definite proper stuff so I know it's not an issue.

cdydjded · 08-30-2010, 09:21 PM

Ive me a second Ill downloading the pics & specs from my Blackberry.....

cdydjded · 08-30-2010, 09:23 PM

IMG00577.jpg

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-30-2010, 09:25 PM

What's the brand name, can't tell. Think I could find it at walmart?

I have no idea what the hell I'm using lol. It's like lemon-lime yellow and I found it in an Arizona tea bottle. Probably wasn't the best idea in retrospect

cdydjded · 08-30-2010, 09:30 PM

Well there lies one problem. The toyota coolant is red. The yellow is different. This is Toyota brand bought at the dealer.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-30-2010, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Well there lies one problem. The toyota coolant is red. The yellow is different. This is Toyota brand bought at the dealer.

Yeah, wow, I just looked this up. I hope I didn't do any damage, I put a good 5k miles on the car with that coolant mixed in with the red. So it looks like dyes are added to differentiate the type - and that's based on chemicals used. So that is, in fact, a problem lol. I'll just look for some red coolant at walmart / advance auto, and I'll try to grab the more expensive one. Thanks so much for pointing this out... I had no idea.

I can safely say that I have probably learned more about cars in the last 2 weeks than someone would learn in two semesters of college

coheed · 08-30-2010, 09:32 PM

Cant find it at walmart. From what Ive heard its cheaper to buy the red coolant at Mercedes dealers then Toyota. Not to sure on that one bc I havent had to buy any yet.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-31-2010, 01:07 PM

Is it possible I could get an oil idiot light from too much oil? Seems weird, but I have noooo idea what this oil idiot light could be from. My only other thought is the sender is failing?

Just read something interesting - having too much oil causes it to flood over the crank shaft, which whips it up and creates air pockets in the oil. This immediately caught my attention, as I noticed the nylon tube I use for my oil pressure gauge seems to have a lot more air in it than it did when the car is turned off. This seems like it would explain why the oil idiot light seems to freak out and not always stay on constantly, and turns off during idle when it's expecting less pressure. Does what I'm saying make any sense lol?

I think I'm going to do a fresh oil change right now... Only problem is I am NOT looking foward to getting the filter off, as the Zage return elbow blocks the stupid thing.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-31-2010, 11:54 PM

After two days of frustration and symptoms pointing to potentially huge issues, it seems as though all my leaks are finally plugged.

Will be taking her out first thing tomorrow. Wish me luck guys.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-01-2010, 01:00 PM

Good news and bad news.

First, the good. The leaks are definitely plugged (except for an exhaust leak where the downpipe connects, no big deal) and no more white smoke.

Now, the bad. I had to have my car towed.

I was driving and heard a loud popping sound when I entered boost, and immediately pulled over. Car starts, but idles like crap. Decided it was best to have it towed...

Here's the ridiculous part that I'm never going to forgive myself for. That light... It isn't the oil idiot light... IT'S THE OVERHEATING LIGHT. One of the guys at the shop pointed it out by unscrewing the radiator cap. Sure enough.. it was overheating bad. I pray that my stupidity didn't just cost me a crap load. How can someone install a turbocharger with no expertise, but be stupid enough to confuse two dashboard lights lol?

Anyways, this is out of my hands at this point. My fingers are crossed and I'm hoping the diagnosis they run isn't absolutely terrible. I'm having the guy do a compression test and check the internals / head gasket, so we'll see. Then there's still the issue as to why it's overheating. I doubt it's simply because I'm using the wrong coolant, but with a turbocharger in.. who knows.

On the plus side, my install has run on the cheap side so far, so I still have some cash that I (reluctantly) can throw at this still. After two weeks of incredibly hard work, I'm ready to do what's necessary to just get the car up and running successfully.

I hope I'm not discouraging anybody that wanted to do this... I know this all sounds scary, but my car isn't kaput. Also, if you're not a total f-up like I am, you won't have problems where you mix up the oil and overheating lights. God I wish I had my water temp gauge installed before all this...

Anyways, you guys will be the first to know when I have updates. I feel so crummy right now, because all I can do is sit here and hope for the best.

Nexus1155 · 09-01-2010, 01:21 PM

Quote:

I was driving and heard a loud popping sound when I entered boost

Did you check all of the clamps and couplers and hoses on the boost side of the piping? They need to be TIGHT, Air will always take the path with the least resistance, thats why you should always pressure test your setups. Sounds like you blew a clamp off. Usually you can uplug MAF and limp home.

If its more severe than that. Sorry to hear.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-01-2010, 07:52 PM

Nexus, you sir... are my savior!

I was freaking out too much earlier to remember I was having issues with the coupler on the compressor housing yesterday. I got driven to the place, bought my trusty jack and wrench with me, and got under the car to check it out. Sure enough, the piping was disconnected!

So I immediately fixed it, at the shop, and got my car back. They charged $97 to check codes, clear them, and fill the car with coolant. Could have been worse. For anyone interested, the codes I had were iginition coil errors (because I unplugged the sparks to prime the turbo), O2 sensor (because the piping was disconnected), air intake temp (same as O2), and MAF (probably also the same).

The best part is, driving home I got no CELs, and no overheating lights. So I'm going to work on that coupler a bit more, and fix my exhaust leak (could that cause overheating because it's venting into the engine bay?). Then I'll drive the car around and see if I get any overheating lights again. I'm going to assume the worst and expect to get them, so I've been trying to think of ways to keep the water temperature reasonable. So far, the only two ideas I've had was to pull coolant off the turbo (don't want to), and/or to get a performance radiator.

I may be out $170, but it turns out it was money well spent.

ALSO - running lean most likely means running hotter, correct?

Parmas · 09-02-2010, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

The best part is, driving home I got no CELs, and no overheating lights. So I'm going to work on that coupler a bit more, and fix my exhaust leak (could that cause overheating because it's venting into the engine bay?). Then I'll drive the car around and see if I get any overheating lights again. I'm going to assume the worst and expect to get them, so I've been trying to think of ways to keep the water temperature reasonable. So far, the only two ideas I've had was to pull coolant off the turbo (don't want to), and/or to get a performance radiator.

I may be out $170, but it turns out it was money well spent.

I think you could have saved $170 since probably:

1) The overheating was caused by air present into the system (Emptying the present coolant and fill slowly with new one will solve it). To check that the coolant is free from air, switch on heater in cabin while engine is running and check that is coming hot. If not, there is no flow which is = to air into the system.

2) Error codes will be solved mainly by disconnecting the battery for a half an hour or so.

RE: Exhaust leak. That depends what amount of exhaust is leaking. Mainly the most irritable part is that it will leave a good amount of carbon into the engine bay.

Nexus1155 · 08-31-2010, 03:52 AM

Mixing coolants is bad over time, i doubt short term damage did anything. check out Zerex/Xerex G05 and see if it is suitable for your car. We use G12/G16 whatever it is in our Audis which is bright pink and the Zerex is a good cheap replacement for it at an 1/8th of the price. Make sure whatever coolant you choose is good for your car though.

Bluevitz-rs · 08-31-2010, 09:40 AM

You can just use Distilled water in the mean time until you get the leaks sorted out. As long as there's some coolant still in there for lubrication.

And if oil and/or coolant got onto the header wrap, it now trashed. You'll have to replace it. But you can do that after you get the leaks fixed. Get a can of foaming engine cleaner and clean off all of the oil spillage. That way you'll be able to more clearly see if there's a leak and were it's coming from.

08-30-2010, 09:32 PM	#10
coheed Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Maiden, NC Posts: 785	Cant find it at walmart. From what Ive heard its cheaper to buy the red coolant at Mercedes dealers then Toyota. Not to sure on that one bc I havent had to buy any yet. __________________ Too much of car culture is people taking things too seriously and not enjoying it for what it is.

08-31-2010, 01:07 PM	#11
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Is it possible I could get an oil idiot light from too much oil? Seems weird, but I have noooo idea what this oil idiot light could be from. My only other thought is the sender is failing? Just read something interesting - having too much oil causes it to flood over the crank shaft, which whips it up and creates air pockets in the oil. This immediately caught my attention, as I noticed the nylon tube I use for my oil pressure gauge seems to have a lot more air in it than it did when the car is turned off. This seems like it would explain why the oil idiot light seems to freak out and not always stay on constantly, and turns off during idle when it's expecting less pressure. Does what I'm saying make any sense lol? I think I'm going to do a fresh oil change right now... Only problem is I am NOT looking foward to getting the filter off, as the Zage return elbow blocks the stupid thing. Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 08-31-2010 at 01:20 PM.

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08-30-2010, 09:06 PM	#1
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Haha you're making me nervous man. But... I checked the coolant lines on the turbo and (thankfully) they're leaking. They only seem to leak while the car is in drive though, because during idle there is no smoke. If the engine was overheating, wouldn't it throw the engine hot light? I wish I knew what this CEL was... I'm still worried about what you're saying though. The smoke does seem to be isolated to behind the engine block, and the exhaust. I'll work on the turbo coolant leak and hopefully all will be resolved. cdydjded, are you saying it HAS to be this toyota brand coolant? I was using something else, and at this point most of the OEM coolant has leaked out or evaporated. I'm also still confused about the oil idiot light. What would cause it to come on if the oil level is adequate? Also if it's of any importance... The car drives absolutely fine currently.

08-30-2010, 09:04 PM	#2
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	My .02 cents: the turbo does not need the water lines connected to work properly. It does however need the oil lines. Remove the water lines & drive the car, see if the problem goes away. Next make sure that the coolant level & oil levels are where they need to be. For the coolant, I hope you replaced the coolant you leaked with Toyota coolant? You are aware that is is a special red in color coolant? You do have to have the proper mixture in the radiator. If not you will have temperature issues.

08-30-2010, 09:10 PM	#3
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	It does not have to be Toyota brand but it is not ordinary coolant. I have some in my garage I get you more info on what it is & a pic..... As for the coolant lines, if you can stop the leak, dont use them until all other issues are resolve. It will be 1 less problem you have for now....

08-30-2010, 09:21 PM	#5
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	Ive me a second Ill downloading the pics & specs from my Blackberry.....

08-30-2010, 09:23 PM	#6
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	IMG00577.jpg

08-30-2010, 09:25 PM	#7
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	What's the brand name, can't tell. Think I could find it at walmart? I have no idea what the hell I'm using lol. It's like lemon-lime yellow and I found it in an Arizona tea bottle. Probably wasn't the best idea in retrospect

08-30-2010, 09:30 PM	#8
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	Well there lies one problem. The toyota coolant is red. The yellow is different. This is Toyota brand bought at the dealer.

08-31-2010, 11:54 PM	#12
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	After two days of frustration and symptoms pointing to potentially huge issues, it seems as though all my leaks are finally plugged. Will be taking her out first thing tomorrow. Wish me luck guys.

09-01-2010, 01:00 PM	#13
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Good news and bad news. First, the good. The leaks are definitely plugged (except for an exhaust leak where the downpipe connects, no big deal) and no more white smoke. Now, the bad. I had to have my car towed. I was driving and heard a loud popping sound when I entered boost, and immediately pulled over. Car starts, but idles like crap. Decided it was best to have it towed... Here's the ridiculous part that I'm never going to forgive myself for. That light... It isn't the oil idiot light... IT'S THE OVERHEATING LIGHT. One of the guys at the shop pointed it out by unscrewing the radiator cap. Sure enough.. it was overheating bad. I pray that my stupidity didn't just cost me a crap load. How can someone install a turbocharger with no expertise, but be stupid enough to confuse two dashboard lights lol? Anyways, this is out of my hands at this point. My fingers are crossed and I'm hoping the diagnosis they run isn't absolutely terrible. I'm having the guy do a compression test and check the internals / head gasket, so we'll see. Then there's still the issue as to why it's overheating. I doubt it's simply because I'm using the wrong coolant, but with a turbocharger in.. who knows. On the plus side, my install has run on the cheap side so far, so I still have some cash that I (reluctantly) can throw at this still. After two weeks of incredibly hard work, I'm ready to do what's necessary to just get the car up and running successfully. I hope I'm not discouraging anybody that wanted to do this... I know this all sounds scary, but my car isn't kaput. Also, if you're not a total f-up like I am, you won't have problems where you mix up the oil and overheating lights. God I wish I had my water temp gauge installed before all this... Anyways, you guys will be the first to know when I have updates. I feel so crummy right now, because all I can do is sit here and hope for the best.

09-01-2010, 07:52 PM	#15
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Nexus, you sir... are my savior! I was freaking out too much earlier to remember I was having issues with the coupler on the compressor housing yesterday. I got driven to the place, bought my trusty jack and wrench with me, and got under the car to check it out. Sure enough, the piping was disconnected! So I immediately fixed it, at the shop, and got my car back. They charged $97 to check codes, clear them, and fill the car with coolant. Could have been worse. For anyone interested, the codes I had were iginition coil errors (because I unplugged the sparks to prime the turbo), O2 sensor (because the piping was disconnected), air intake temp (same as O2), and MAF (probably also the same). The best part is, driving home I got no CELs, and no overheating lights. So I'm going to work on that coupler a bit more, and fix my exhaust leak (could that cause overheating because it's venting into the engine bay?). Then I'll drive the car around and see if I get any overheating lights again. I'm going to assume the worst and expect to get them, so I've been trying to think of ways to keep the water temperature reasonable. So far, the only two ideas I've had was to pull coolant off the turbo (don't want to), and/or to get a performance radiator. I may be out $170, but it turns out it was money well spent. ALSO - running lean most likely means running hotter, correct?

08-31-2010, 03:52 AM	#17
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Mixing coolants is bad over time, i doubt short term damage did anything. check out Zerex/Xerex G05 and see if it is suitable for your car. We use G12/G16 whatever it is in our Audis which is bright pink and the Zerex is a good cheap replacement for it at an 1/8th of the price. Make sure whatever coolant you choose is good for your car though.

08-31-2010, 09:40 AM	#18
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	You can just use Distilled water in the mean time until you get the leaks sorted out. As long as there's some coolant still in there for lubrication. And if oil and/or coolant got onto the header wrap, it now trashed. You'll have to replace it. But you can do that after you get the leaks fixed. Get a can of foaming engine cleaner and clean off all of the oil spillage. That way you'll be able to more clearly see if there's a leak and were it's coming from.