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05-25-2011, 04:49 PM | #199 | |
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Quote:
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05-25-2011, 05:04 PM | #200 | |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 1.33 5D HB Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Bratislava, Slovakia, Europe
Posts: 4
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Quote:
thanks for your response. I admit its time consuming process and there are many risks to consider, but it's my hobby At the moment I would say I have 90% of the source code ready, so there are only minor modifications to be done and a lot of testing and bug fixing But except my free time I invest into it, the parts will cost me not more than 20 EUR ( ~30USD). Regarding the aftermarket models, the situation is slightly better than you expect, at least here in Slovakia. I can get one for ~450 USD, but still Rostra model even including shipping costs would be cheaper. And I don't see any reason why it should not work on European models. But as I said, it's a hobby. |
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05-25-2011, 08:38 PM | #201 | |
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Quote:
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05-26-2011, 08:28 AM | #202 | |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 1.33 5D HB Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Bratislava, Slovakia, Europe
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Solid state switching is definitely faster than mechanical relay. But advantage of a relay is that it does not require power supply to interconnect one of the input lines to the ouput. I though of using this a safety mechanism, so in case anything goes wrong I would just switch off the power supply to cruise control module and the relay would (almost immediatelly) switch back to default state (direct connection of accelerator pedal). But if I find some good solution using solid state, I am about to change my mind. |
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05-26-2011, 11:49 AM | #203 | |
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http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm Rather than switching back and forth, it may actually make more sense to put the microcontroller in between the pedal and the ECM. That way, the ECM samples the pedal outputs and then in normal mode, just emulates what it sees. Then, in CC mode it ignores the input and sends its own output. The other advantage of this method is that you can improve the throttle response in normal mode (like the Blitz throttle controller does).
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05-26-2011, 03:21 PM | #204 | |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 1.33 5D HB Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Bratislava, Slovakia, Europe
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Another idea came to my mind how to avoid switching delays with a relay. If I connect the DAC output directly to output line of the relay (to ECM) and accelerator pedal to one input of the relay (the second input remains unused), I can first set the output voltage on DAC and then switch the relay (cut the accelerator pedal line). On a switch back, the accelerator pedal is switched on first and then DAC disabled. This way, there is no voltage drop on signal line to ECM. The only drawback is, that all time, when DAC is not in use (even just before switching off the accelerator pedal line, when DAC output is set) there is voltage from accelerator pedal to DAC output. I have no idea, if it can harm it in any way and what the impedance between DAC output and ground. If the impedance is too low, it can make a short connection and damage the ECM, that I obviously would like to avoid And finally, do you have any idea, what size the input impedance of ECM could be? |
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05-26-2011, 03:30 PM | #205 | |
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Quote:
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06-03-2011, 09:04 PM | #206 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 8
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Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?
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06-03-2011, 09:58 PM | #207 |
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The most common one with 06-08's, when using the OEM stalk is not properly seating the ECM pin. The check for that is to measure the voltage on the wire connected to the ECM pin with the ignition switch in the on position (engine not running). It should measure 12 Volts with no buttons pressed on the stalk. If it does not, then the pin is not seated properly or is in the wrong location.
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06-04-2011, 09:16 AM | #208 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 8
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I figured it out! I had 12volts to the ECM pin so that wasn't the problem. When I drive I ride with my foot just resting on the clutch. That was enough to remove pressure from the plunger causing it to not activate.
Works great, another thankful yaris owner Scott! |
06-12-2011, 03:16 PM | #209 |
Drives: asd Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: dfw
Posts: 42
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Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.
It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off. Car on but engine off: 12.3v With the on/off button held: 0.2v Held down: 6.1v Held up: 3.4v Held toward: 8.6v Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack). Thanks a ton for your help! |
06-12-2011, 10:32 PM | #210 | |
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Quote:
Try wiggling the ECM Pin while measuring to make sure that the connection is not intermittent. Can you refresh my memory on if you have an AT or MT?
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06-13-2011, 06:08 PM | #211 |
Drives: asd Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: dfw
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It's an AT 2007 2 door.
If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely. |
06-13-2011, 06:26 PM | #212 |
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That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.
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06-13-2011, 06:47 PM | #213 |
Drives: asd Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: dfw
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Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?
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06-13-2011, 06:52 PM | #214 |
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If that looks solid, work your way towards the stalk, verifying the connections along the way.
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06-13-2011, 09:27 PM | #215 |
Drives: asd Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: dfw
Posts: 42
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I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?
I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it. And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it? |
06-13-2011, 09:40 PM | #216 | |
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Quote:
The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.
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