I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 12 - Toyota Yaris Forums

fnkngrv · 08-31-2010, 01:17 PM

I have seen people get the oil light when they had too much oil in their cars...granted they were Chrysler or Dodge so I cannot say for sure that is part of the indicator inventory of what the Toyota system monitors...

Bluevitz-rs · 08-31-2010, 03:38 PM

All the oil light tells you is you have less than 10psi of oil pressure, which could very well be from air pockets.

Edit: So just to clarify, it's not an oil level indication, it's a pressure indication.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-31-2010, 04:11 PM

I'm about ready to rip my hair out...

Changed oil, tightened coolant t clamps, started car, let it idle. Revved it to 2500 whereby I was greeted by a metallic scraping noise. I don't know if it's internal engine or not, but this likely just took a turn for the worst...

Hopefully it's just something vibrating, but I'm afraid to try driving it now.

Parmas · 08-31-2010, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

All the oil light tells you is you have less than 10psi of oil pressure, which could very well be from air pockets.

Edit: So just to clarify, it's not an oil level indication, it's a pressure indication.

Agreed the light indicates pressure and not level. Keeping good pressure is a must and very dangerous driving with it on especially for turbo.

Nexus1155 · 08-31-2010, 07:03 PM

Is the low oil pressure light still coming on? You could have sucked some sealant through your oil pump if you didn't wait for the sealant to dry properly causing it to clog a bit.

Also, if you dont have oil pressure going to the turbo, say goodbye to that turbo. I just did it last week, the turbo was defective though, or both of them would have blown.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-31-2010, 07:55 PM

The metallic sound turned out to be the exhaust, still haven't found where but I know it is now. Why it suddenly decided to start making noise...

I haven't taken the car out yet today, as I've found my coolant leak finally and am patching it with JB Weld. Yes, I know the stuff sucks, but it did work fine the first time for this use, and my other coolant line is sealed the same way with no problems. This will be temporary, as I think I need to order the correct size adapters.

As for oil pressure, let me clarify a bit further. At all times, my mechanical gauge reads perfectly accurate psi ratings and is connected to the oil filter through a sandwich adapter. When I was driving yesterday, the light came on after a about a minute of driving. It blinked for awhile, and stopped. Then came back and stayed on. I believe it either turned off or blinked a couple more times before pulling into my driveway. By the time I had put the car in park, it was gone. This happened TWICE, and followed nearly the same pattern. At the time, I had about an additional inch of oil (as per the dipstick) from the top dot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Is the low oil pressure light still coming on? You could have sucked some sealant through your oil pump if you didn't wait for the sealant to dry properly causing it to clog a bit.

I ended up using teflon paste for most of the threads, so this is definitely possible. I'm pretty sure either way that whatever is happening with the oil light isn't a big deal. I figure because I have adequate oil levels and no funky pressure readings that it's most likely okay... Still would like to know for sure though.

pimp my yaris · 08-31-2010, 05:12 PM

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. I hope its just a exhaust problem or something. Best of luck!

Yoda · 09-01-2010, 10:37 AM

GOOD LUCK!!! Make sure you record it too..

cali yaris · 09-01-2010, 08:00 PM

yay, sounds like you're getting close. Engine bay heat shouldn't cause the internal coolant temp to overheat. I never overheated at 8psi on stock cooling system. Pretty sure the other boosters haven't had problems, either.

leaner = hotter, yes

Quote:

God I wish I had my water temp gauge installed before all this...

+1 million gazillion

MINIMUM GAUGES FOR TURBO PROJECTS:
water temp
oil pressure
boost

cdydjded · 09-01-2010, 08:21 PM

You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-01-2010, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

Agreed, just looking ahead as well. I'm thinking coolant was the issue, but we'll see tomorrow when I try driving again.

Garm, I blame my lack of water temperature gauge on you. If you sold an electric gauge, I woulda bought from you and wouldn't be clueless on where to place this stupid sender unit. And no, no scangauge.

Exhaust leak is dealt with, piping is fixed, so first thing tomorrow once again... I need to do a "stress test" before I go get tuned methinks.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 02:39 PM

Took the car out today and things went great.

One issue though.

I got a CEL after driving for a bit. Pulled into Advance Auto, had the code read, it was an O2 sensor code. The details were something like "bank 1, low positive current." Bank 1 is the sensor on the downpipe, correct? If so, it would explain the burning smell I'm still having lol. Assuming it's that sensor, it isn't ruined because my narrowband still works. So this should be as simple as extending the wire and getting it AWAY from the hot side, and heat wrapping it some more, just need to be 100% sure that it is the wire in question.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-05-2010, 12:09 PM

Just got my codes read. I still have P2238, but now I have P0101. The latter is "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance." Interesting that both are circuit related... Anyone have any ideas on what's going on?

Would like to add that the car drives absolutely fine.

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 02:26 AM

LOL no problem, sometimes its something simple.

If you are still leaking you are not crushing those crush washers enough. You need to put assloads of strength on it not just wrist tight like a 10mm bolt. I'm pretty strong and I have to put my body into it sometimes for them not to leak at all.

Hope you get it all sorted out

firemachine69 · 09-02-2010, 03:53 PM

I had that same code IIRC, Toyota had to replace the entire downpipe/cat converter system.

(The warranty is quite long, so you should still be covered.)

Nexus1155 · 09-02-2010, 04:19 PM

It will be a cold day in hell if Toyota ever replaces anything under warranty in a heavily engine modified vehicle for free. Think you may have ruined the sensor when it was doused in oil if it was doused in oil. you did say the downpipe had oil in it or not? Can you get the exact P code number? Bank 1, you only have one bank :P So it will be S1 B1 if its primary, S2 B1 if its secondary.

Focus_Sh1ft · 09-02-2010, 05:24 PM

I don't know if I'm in denial or not, but I don't think it's ruined. It was running fine until the engine got really hot, and there was a burning smell. The shrink wrap on it was very hot as well. The fact that my narrowband still displayed accurate AFRs tells me it's not shot, but if I don't address it now it most certainly will be. I'm going to run some resistance checks now to make sure it is okay.

And Toyota replacing it? I'm on my own from now on lol. I knew this right from day one. Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

pimp my yaris · 09-02-2010, 09:18 PM

Video please

08-31-2010, 01:17 PM	#1
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	I have seen people get the oil light when they had too much oil in their cars...granted they were Chrysler or Dodge so I cannot say for sure that is part of the indicator inventory of what the Toyota system monitors... __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

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08-31-2010, 03:38 PM	#2
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	All the oil light tells you is you have less than 10psi of oil pressure, which could very well be from air pockets. Edit: So just to clarify, it's not an oil level indication, it's a pressure indication.

08-31-2010, 04:11 PM	#3
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I'm about ready to rip my hair out... Changed oil, tightened coolant t clamps, started car, let it idle. Revved it to 2500 whereby I was greeted by a metallic scraping noise. I don't know if it's internal engine or not, but this likely just took a turn for the worst... Hopefully it's just something vibrating, but I'm afraid to try driving it now.

08-31-2010, 07:03 PM	#5
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Is the low oil pressure light still coming on? You could have sucked some sealant through your oil pump if you didn't wait for the sealant to dry properly causing it to clog a bit. Also, if you dont have oil pressure going to the turbo, say goodbye to that turbo. I just did it last week, the turbo was defective though, or both of them would have blown.

08-31-2010, 05:12 PM	#7
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Sorry to hear about your bad luck. I hope its just a exhaust problem or something. Best of luck!

09-01-2010, 10:37 AM	#8
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	GOOD LUCK!!! Make sure you record it too..

09-01-2010, 08:21 PM	#10
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	You dont need a performance radiator. You need to resolve the issue at hand which is the fluids in you cooling system....

09-02-2010, 02:39 PM	#12
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Took the car out today and things went great. One issue though. I got a CEL after driving for a bit. Pulled into Advance Auto, had the code read, it was an O2 sensor code. The details were something like "bank 1, low positive current." Bank 1 is the sensor on the downpipe, correct? If so, it would explain the burning smell I'm still having lol. Assuming it's that sensor, it isn't ruined because my narrowband still works. So this should be as simple as extending the wire and getting it AWAY from the hot side, and heat wrapping it some more, just need to be 100% sure that it is the wire in question.

09-05-2010, 12:09 PM	#13
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Just got my codes read. I still have P2238, but now I have P0101. The latter is "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance." Interesting that both are circuit related... Anyone have any ideas on what's going on? Would like to add that the car drives absolutely fine.

09-02-2010, 02:26 AM	#14
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	LOL no problem, sometimes its something simple. If you are still leaking you are not crushing those crush washers enough. You need to put assloads of strength on it not just wrist tight like a 10mm bolt. I'm pretty strong and I have to put my body into it sometimes for them not to leak at all. Hope you get it all sorted out

09-02-2010, 03:53 PM	#15
firemachine69 School'er of hard knocks Drives: Silver Yaris 4dr. HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sudbury, On Posts: 556	I had that same code IIRC, Toyota had to replace the entire downpipe/cat converter system. (The warranty is quite long, so you should still be covered.)

09-02-2010, 04:19 PM	#16
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	It will be a cold day in hell if Toyota ever replaces anything under warranty in a heavily engine modified vehicle for free. Think you may have ruined the sensor when it was doused in oil if it was doused in oil. you did say the downpipe had oil in it or not? Can you get the exact P code number? Bank 1, you only have one bank :P So it will be S1 B1 if its primary, S2 B1 if its secondary.

09-02-2010, 05:24 PM	#17
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I don't know if I'm in denial or not, but I don't think it's ruined. It was running fine until the engine got really hot, and there was a burning smell. The shrink wrap on it was very hot as well. The fact that my narrowband still displayed accurate AFRs tells me it's not shot, but if I don't address it now it most certainly will be. I'm going to run some resistance checks now to make sure it is okay. And Toyota replacing it? I'm on my own from now on lol. I knew this right from day one. Should take my car in one day and see just how much they freak out though.

09-02-2010, 09:18 PM	#18
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Video please