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08-18-2009, 08:48 PM | #217 |
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How about putting some pressure on each with a c-clamp or stacking them and using one clamp?
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08-18-2009, 11:09 PM | #218 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
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08-19-2009, 07:57 AM | #219 | |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
Also, there is a threaded hole in the side of each bracket which goes through the black button in the right of this pic. It looks like the bolt goes through the button and touches the metal body of the sensor. I'm not sure if it's providing some kind of ground, etc. |
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08-19-2009, 08:48 AM | #220 |
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In the bottom pic, the flat area between those two buttons with the flexible flat cable coming off is the actual sensor. You need to put pressure on the plate below the buttons (which looks like it floats on the shafts below the buttons), without actually crunching the orange circuit board. You could cut a piece of wood or metal to just fit between the two buttons, and then clamp that against the plate below the circuit board.
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08-19-2009, 12:04 PM | #221 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
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Ok I'll give that a try when I get home.
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08-19-2009, 12:11 PM | #222 |
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When I have a chance later today I'll do some experimentation with the OCS on Crashy.
I replaced her popped airbags and pretensioners with resistors last night and reset the SRS ECU (It took me about 10 rounds to get it fully reset and I even rigged a momentary switch up to make it easier). She had more than 10 stored SRS DTC's. |
08-19-2009, 01:46 PM | #223 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
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I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me having problems clearing the SRS codes!
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08-19-2009, 01:49 PM | #224 |
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You really have to either memorize the pattern or have a second person there to read the instructions to you. I was monkeying with it at midnight, so I couldn't recruit one of my kids to help me.
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08-19-2009, 02:11 PM | #225 |
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After about 20 attempts, I finally ended up just memorizing it. I was also getting thrown by the lack of a 3 second delay in the first step and the fact that it was close to 95 degrees while I was trying to do this. Extending the length of the jumper wires definitely helped though.
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08-19-2009, 04:56 PM | #226 |
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OK. Now that the SRS is happy, I just did some experimentation with the OCS. The resistors will definitely not work, as there is a signal component as well from the sensor. There is a DC voltage, which is proportional to the weight applied to the sensor, but there is also an analog waveform on the signal pin. When I connected the resistors and power on the ignition, I would see the correct voltage on the signal pin for a couple of seconds, then the voltage would drop to zero and the passenger seat belt light would flash rapidly. Checking the DTC showed a 32. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the sensor, the DTC would go away and the OCS would operate normally. Tonight I am going to pull the sensors off of the seat, so I can experiment with one.
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08-19-2009, 05:15 PM | #227 | |
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Quote:
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08-19-2009, 09:03 PM | #228 |
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I just took the seat apart (which turned out to be a challenge, as my largest torx bit is a T30). I realized that you can separate the seat base from the seat. Doing so provides a great way to mount an aftermarket seat to the four sensors. The silver bolts sticking out of the sensors are the mounting points. It seems like four heavy gauge L brackets or two 16" long pieces of angle iron are all that would be required.
Seat Base.jpg |
08-19-2009, 09:18 PM | #229 |
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Mine looks the same... minus all the rust and that my sensors aren't bolted to the base anymore. But my passenger's seat is in two pieces like yours.
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08-19-2009, 09:25 PM | #230 |
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Did you consider mounting your new seats to the base?
By the way, the carpet was completely saturated and the spare tire well was full to the top with water, hence the wicked rust. |
08-19-2009, 09:28 PM | #231 |
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I honestly didn't think of it since the new seats came with Wedge brackets, which are much lower than the OEM base. I figured the two seats would be at different heights if I were to mount the passenger to the OEM bracket and keep the driver on the Wedge bracket. Plus, I'm not sure if the new seat bolts up to the OEM bracket.
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08-19-2009, 10:17 PM | #232 | |
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Quote:
OK. Just a thought, while I was under there. I was thinking that if you mounted the passenger seat to the OEM base, that you would also mount the driver seat that way. I haven't pulled that one yet, but it looks like there's an equivalent height set of mounting points on that side. Anyway, I removed the sensors. With them off of the base I am still seeing voltage on the sensor signal wires. The airbag off light was on. I clamped all four sensors with c clamps and now have the airbag on light. |
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08-19-2009, 10:23 PM | #233 | |
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Quote:
Do you think there's something wrong with my sensors/system since I'm not seeing voltage on the signal wires? There is, of course, the possibility that I'm doing something wrong in testing for voltage, by the way Any chance you could post a pic of your clamp set up so I can duplicate? Also, did you have to reset the SRS codes in order for the airbag light to turn to 'on'? Or did it just change as soon as you clamped the sensors? |
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08-19-2009, 10:52 PM | #234 |
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I am measuring between the center wire (which is the signal output) and a chassis ground. I am using a needle probe, which is a very thin, sharp probe. With the waterproof connector, I am sticking it into the rubber seal around the wire.
Clamp.jpg Meter.jpg Airbag Light.jpg |
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