I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[pimp my yaris]

Jerzy I finally checked my codes today at autozone. I had only one and it was PO137 bank 1 sensor 2 low voltage. I am sure its because I have no cat. and the sensor is still connected but I pulled it inside my car. Its now under the carpet on the driver side. I think I will need a electronic o2 simulatar to pass emissions. I think I will also buy a vaccume check valve to put in on my evap. line.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Jerzy I finally checked my codes today at autozone. I had only one and it was PO137 bank 1 sensor 2 low voltage. I am sure its because I have no cat. and the sensor is still connected but I pulled it inside my car. Its now under the carpet on the driver side. I think I will need a electronic o2 simulatar to pass emissions. I think I will also buy a vaccume check valve to put in on my evap. line.

Agreed. Definitely because you pulled the cat out. Interesting though that we have similar setups but you don't have a MAF code. My P2238 disappeared and hasnt come back since I cleared my codes about a week ago, but P0101 keeps coming back.

[Red Horse]

Has any yaris owner expirience an explosion on their turbo?

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Red Horse

Has any yaris owner expirience an explosion on their turbo?

Good question. And please let us know how much boost you were pushing when it happened.

[Nexus1155]

They sell O2 Sensor "defoulers" at any auto store, its basically a spacer that pushes the sensor away from the stream so it won't throw codes.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Tightened most of my piping connections, checked the MAF, and finally dealt with a small exhaust leak I had. Cleared the code, drove to class, came back on the way home. There must have been a small error on my part when I installed part of the air induction system for this code to keep coming up, otherwise pimp would have it too. I'm confident my MAF sensor works properly, so... maybe a vacuum leak? What would I see on a vacuum gauge if there was a leak?

Still gotta get this thing tuned and stuff... It's like I got lazier now that schools going again

[pimp my yaris]

Just take it easy on the gas till U get her tuned. I can tell U with the wideband, I can tell exactly what my engine is doing and at high rpm's under boost it runs lean without tuning. Too lean! I cant wait to get my piggy back and try to learn some tuning myself. U should invest in the aem wideband. It works great and is made to work with your AEM FIC. I think the mass air sensor max's out under boost and can't properly adjust fuel supply. With the internal map sensor on the FIC we can keep adding fuel after the mass air has maxed out.

Hey jerzy: How much boost are U runing anyway? I dont think a vaccume guage will help that problem. It will only find a leak between the throttle and the engine. I would double check all connections and make sure those silicone connectors and clamps are straight and tight. If they are cocked or crooked they my not seal. Ya that sounded funny!

[cali yaris]

Too lean!

what are your numbers?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

The Zage actuator is set to .5 bar. I've only really pushed the boost to 7 psi twice, for now I barely even touch 5 psi during daily driving, for the exact reason you're telling me to take it easy on the gas. I guess the next step really is to see whether or not MAF clamping sorts this trivial code out or not. I'm probably going to tell my tuner to leave the fuel maps alone where the ECU is able to properly adjust, and just focus on the mid and upper RPM range.

Oh yeah, my stupid return flange on the turbo is leaking oil... AGAIN. It's incredibly slow and hasn't really effected my oil level after two weeks of driving, but it needs to be dealt with. My big meaty hands must be over-tightening the bolts. Frustrating

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I know why I'm getting P0101, and I'm surprised no one has pointed it out yet.

The Zage BOV is NOT a recirculating one. Being the novice that I am, I thought the vacuum connection that was made to the intake manifold was the bypass valve. It's simply there to operate the piston in the BOV, so there's my air leak lmao. I was wondering how it was capable of making noises without venting the air. Bummer though, because the Zage BOV sounds sweeeeet lol.

So, I have two apparent options. The first being to switch to a bypass valve. The second is more complicated and I see no additional benefit to doing it but... I could use the FIC's MAP sensor to control all my fuel, but that leaves the ECU out of the loop and will probably make it unhappy.

Ideas, guys? I'm probably just going to switch, but would like to see what other options I may have.

[Nexus1155]

I just MIGHT have an extra 710 recirc valve from my audi. I'll look around tomorrow for it, if I do I will just send it to you, but that means more custom work because it needs an in and an out and the vacuum line. It is always better to recirc the air. I totally didn't even think of that either, but yeah that could mess things up for you. But you are getting codes when pimp isn't depends on placement of the BOV most likely. Turbo japanese cars are meant to have the BOV noise, try to find an easy way to keep it

I'll let you know as soon as i find out though.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

what are your numbers?

It will run as lean as 15-16/1 under boost at high rpm 5-6K
At lower rpm 2-4K everything is cool 12-13/1

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

It will run as lean as 15-16/1 under boost at high rpm 5-6K
At lower rpm 2-4K everything is cool 12-13/1

If you saw 15-16 on boost while reving up 5 to 6k consider you have madea slight damage to your pistons as that mixture is way too lean on boost. If you drove several times on that AFR I am very well surprised the engine did not fail.

Please pay attention and get some patience, you don't want the project to be titled " How to end without an engine" instead of " How to turbo an engine", right?

[cali yaris]

A couple of revs that go lean won't kill it. Hell I drove my car for 9 months like that.

Will be interesting to inspect these motors someday when they do get pulled, though -- mine too.

[pimp my yaris]

I am driving slow and easy till I get some tuning. I now its to lean and thats why I posted this. I just wanted those who havent had tuning and may not have a wideband to know even at low boost they are runing to lean. So the moral of the story is get some tuning before meltdown and

[Bluevitz-rs]

Simplest solution is to move the MAF after the BOV. You're getting that code because you're venting that metered air to atmosphere. If the BOV is before the MAF, the air gets vented before getting read, so the ECU is only reading what's actually going into the motor.

Only problem I can see is you might not get an accurate reading reading presurized air because the air isn't moving as fast past the MAF. Under vacuum pressure it should work though, it just when you get into boost.

I'm only talking theory here though, not experience, so it might be fine.

[pimp my yaris]

My blow off valve also vents outside. My valve is adjustable and I have it set a little tight. My car was dying out in first gear if I hit the gas and quickly let off the gas, because the engine would go very rich. Now it is working good. I bet U could get by with a adjustable BOV. Also their is a specific setting for BOV in the FIC to eliminate any problems with it. Your tuner should be able to fix your code.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I'd prefer to avoid custom work if I can. And Nexus, thanks, I'll definitely let you know if I do need a bypass valve.

I've put more thought into this, and done some research, and will talk to my tuner about this prior. However, I believe that having fuel maps done on a dyno will eliminate any issues that would arise from dumping metered air (and even now, I've yet to notice any stalling/roughness/etc. after the BOV vents). If I'm correct in saying so, the maps would be designed around test runs which would include moments in which the BOV activates and dumps metered air, correct? My other thought was that if it didn't work this way, then how would cars with higher boost be able to run a BOV without totally stalling the engine?

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

My blow off valve also vents outside. My valve is adjustable and I have it set a little tight. My car was dying out in first gear if I hit the gas and quickly let off the gas, because the engine would go very rich. Now it is working good. I bet U could get by with a adjustable BOV. Also their is a specific setting for BOV in the FIC to eliminate any problems with it. Your tuner should be able to fix your code.

My BOV is adjustable as well, but I haven't bothered with it (yet). What bothers me is that we should both have P0101 if my theory was correct... Could it be possible you're letting out LESS metered air because you tightened your BOV? And as a result, your theroetical mix isn't so far off as the actual mix to throw a code?