I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

The Zage actuator is set to .5 bar. I've only really pushed the boost to 7 psi twice, for now I barely even touch 5 psi during daily driving, for the exact reason you're telling me to take it easy on the gas. I guess the next step really is to see whether or not MAF clamping sorts this trivial code out or not. I'm probably going to tell my tuner to leave the fuel maps alone where the ECU is able to properly adjust, and just focus on the mid and upper RPM range.

Oh yeah, my stupid return flange on the turbo is leaking oil... AGAIN. It's incredibly slow and hasn't really effected my oil level after two weeks of driving, but it needs to be dealt with. My big meaty hands must be over-tightening the bolts. Frustrating

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

what are your numbers?

It will run as lean as 15-16/1 under boost at high rpm 5-6K
At lower rpm 2-4K everything is cool 12-13/1

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

It will run as lean as 15-16/1 under boost at high rpm 5-6K
At lower rpm 2-4K everything is cool 12-13/1

If you saw 15-16 on boost while reving up 5 to 6k consider you have madea slight damage to your pistons as that mixture is way too lean on boost. If you drove several times on that AFR I am very well surprised the engine did not fail.

Please pay attention and get some patience, you don't want the project to be titled " How to end without an engine" instead of " How to turbo an engine", right?

[cali yaris]

A couple of revs that go lean won't kill it. Hell I drove my car for 9 months like that.

Will be interesting to inspect these motors someday when they do get pulled, though -- mine too.

[pimp my yaris]

I am driving slow and easy till I get some tuning. I now its to lean and thats why I posted this. I just wanted those who havent had tuning and may not have a wideband to know even at low boost they are runing to lean. So the moral of the story is get some tuning before meltdown and

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I know why I'm getting P0101, and I'm surprised no one has pointed it out yet.

The Zage BOV is NOT a recirculating one. Being the novice that I am, I thought the vacuum connection that was made to the intake manifold was the bypass valve. It's simply there to operate the piston in the BOV, so there's my air leak lmao. I was wondering how it was capable of making noises without venting the air. Bummer though, because the Zage BOV sounds sweeeeet lol.

So, I have two apparent options. The first being to switch to a bypass valve. The second is more complicated and I see no additional benefit to doing it but... I could use the FIC's MAP sensor to control all my fuel, but that leaves the ECU out of the loop and will probably make it unhappy.

Ideas, guys? I'm probably just going to switch, but would like to see what other options I may have.

[Nexus1155]

I just MIGHT have an extra 710 recirc valve from my audi. I'll look around tomorrow for it, if I do I will just send it to you, but that means more custom work because it needs an in and an out and the vacuum line. It is always better to recirc the air. I totally didn't even think of that either, but yeah that could mess things up for you. But you are getting codes when pimp isn't depends on placement of the BOV most likely. Turbo japanese cars are meant to have the BOV noise, try to find an easy way to keep it

I'll let you know as soon as i find out though.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Simplest solution is to move the MAF after the BOV. You're getting that code because you're venting that metered air to atmosphere. If the BOV is before the MAF, the air gets vented before getting read, so the ECU is only reading what's actually going into the motor.

Only problem I can see is you might not get an accurate reading reading presurized air because the air isn't moving as fast past the MAF. Under vacuum pressure it should work though, it just when you get into boost.

I'm only talking theory here though, not experience, so it might be fine.

[pimp my yaris]

My blow off valve also vents outside. My valve is adjustable and I have it set a little tight. My car was dying out in first gear if I hit the gas and quickly let off the gas, because the engine would go very rich. Now it is working good. I bet U could get by with a adjustable BOV. Also their is a specific setting for BOV in the FIC to eliminate any problems with it. Your tuner should be able to fix your code.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I'd prefer to avoid custom work if I can. And Nexus, thanks, I'll definitely let you know if I do need a bypass valve.

I've put more thought into this, and done some research, and will talk to my tuner about this prior. However, I believe that having fuel maps done on a dyno will eliminate any issues that would arise from dumping metered air (and even now, I've yet to notice any stalling/roughness/etc. after the BOV vents). If I'm correct in saying so, the maps would be designed around test runs which would include moments in which the BOV activates and dumps metered air, correct? My other thought was that if it didn't work this way, then how would cars with higher boost be able to run a BOV without totally stalling the engine?

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

My blow off valve also vents outside. My valve is adjustable and I have it set a little tight. My car was dying out in first gear if I hit the gas and quickly let off the gas, because the engine would go very rich. Now it is working good. I bet U could get by with a adjustable BOV. Also their is a specific setting for BOV in the FIC to eliminate any problems with it. Your tuner should be able to fix your code.

My BOV is adjustable as well, but I haven't bothered with it (yet). What bothers me is that we should both have P0101 if my theory was correct... Could it be possible you're letting out LESS metered air because you tightened your BOV? And as a result, your theroetical mix isn't so far off as the actual mix to throw a code?

[pimp my yaris]

Could it be possible you're letting out LESS metered air because you tightened your BOV? And as a result, your theroetical mix isn't so far off as the actual mix to throw a code?

I think thats exactly whats going on. My BOV was set so loose when I got it when my hand was near the vent I felt air being sucked in at idle. Once its tuned they program the piggy back to ignor the mass air when U let off the throttle. This is when the BOV vents and for a moment the mass air is still reading, causing it to go very rich.

[Bluevitz-rs]

You have to remember, when the you shift and close the throttle, the turbo is still spooled to an extent and is still pulling air through the MAF and out the BOV. That's why you get a rich condition. The air going through the MAF isn't going into the motor, but the ECU thinks it is and is still dumping in fuel.

There's a couple of ways around it while using a MAF. You can move it to after the BOV, or program whatever computer you're using to look at the throttle position sensor and have a base map off throttle position, using the MAF for fine adjustment rather than the only input.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Anyone know if the FIC can be used with the UEGO wideband to automatically detect AFRs then correct them based on user entry? Would make things VERY easy and simple. Always the best route.

[cdydjded]

Yes the AEM FIC will accept an input for the UEGO. This adds a digital gauge that can be seen through a laptop along with the RPM & Load gauges that are standard.

No it will not automatically correct AFR's. Not even the the AEM EMS has automatic correction. I believe only MOTEC has that....

[pimp my yaris]

Their are some good videos on Youtube that help descripe the features of the FIC and a little on how it works. All the videos are made by AEM, so their for real. I have the wideband already installed and I should be recieving my FIC tomarrow. I plan on reading all the instructions installing and then trying some tuning myself with the help of those videos. The wideband will tell me if I'm going in the right direction or just making it worse. I would definitely get the wideband. It tells you exactly whats going on and using your tach. U can tell where you need to make adjustments.
I will let U know how it turns out.

[cdydjded]

If you or anyone need help in tuning the AEM FIC please ask ; )

[Bluevitz-rs]

Has anyone concidered the Allan Phillips Racing ECU for their tuning needs?

I know it's pricy and all, but it looks like it would do everything with ease.

[cdydjded]

APR is the Dezod unit, it can only be purchased through Dezod