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#1 |
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Thanks Herb,
I'm going to dig in a little bit more and see if I can do it with heat. I'm going to try again this weekend. This is the LINK for the installation so you get a better idea. Thanks a lot, any information here is appreciated. D.
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#2 |
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Just a Herbicidal maniac.
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Sedan Flint Mica Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Roseville, CA - USA.
Posts: 450
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You're welcome.
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace. |
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#3 | |
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Also I got this: ![]() from Loren, and these are the instruction he gave me: "Just jack up the car and squeeze on in on each rear spring. Will raise the ride height a little, and by removing an active coil from the spring, also raise the spring rate." My rear springs are not holding well the extra weight, and adding woofers, box and Amps! you can tell on the pictures that the rear is lower than the front, and been so soft (NF210s) tires tuck inside wheel well very easy and rubs, so this may help a little bit! We'll see how it goes. Thanks! I'm sorry to make a right turn out of the topic here, but we'll continue on our project... I'm almost done with the floor, but pilot's area, and let me tell you that the noise makes it's way! so I need to make sure to get all leaks as possible, so for some one who only want's to do a portion of the treatment, I would suggest to do the DOORS, then WHEEL WELLS, at least with the doors treated you will improve the sound of your speakers, block outside noise but the most wonderful feeling is when you close your doors! THUMP, THUMP, very nice every time you slam your doors. D.
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#4 |
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On a trek to upgrade...
Drives: 2003 Echo Coupe Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 121
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I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?
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#5 | |
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For SPL is good to cover every single surface of your car, it doesn't compare to the method I'm using to block the noise that penetrates the inside of the cabin. (remember that for SPL competitions you are been tested in NO motion) Applying many layers of MAT it does reduce the noise levels similar to the process I'm using. The Car Audio industry is one of the only ones that still uses "MAT" aka dyamat, as a primary material for deadening, and that is because of Marketing, but in other industries I found 3 common factors: 1. take care of resonances ... by using (Constrained Layer Damper) CLD Tiles 25% of the area is enough, covering all the surfaces with "Mat" may be use but not necessary unless you are going for SPL 2. help cushion high frequencies that still goes through metal ... Close Cell Foam also used to prevent rattles between panels 3. Sound Barrier ... MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl to block exterior noise (and it's cheaper than "lead") My goal with this process is to reduce the outside noise as much as possible specially at highway speeds, and in some places like front doors improve acoustical environment for speakers. I hope it helps! .
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#6 |
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On a trek to upgrade...
Drives: 2003 Echo Coupe Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 121
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Very much so! Thank you!
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#7 |
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#8 |
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![]() The Rubbing issues are gone (90%) but at least I don't have to drive my car with black wheels in front and silver wheels in back, feels so good now! More info HERE ![]() D. .
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC Last edited by derickveliz2; 05-12-2010 at 01:49 PM. |
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#9 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: '09 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 64
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Quote:
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Pioneer
Ascendant Audio Sundown Audio DC Power Engineering Knukoncepts Fosgate Stinger |
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#10 |
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I did more work on the floor, removed some OEM deadening material behind pilots seat, added 2 CLD Tiles some of that heat barrier insulation (since I have lots of left overs why not?) and 1/4 CCF. I left the MLV at work so I will cut that tomorrow.
Picture soon. D.
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#11 |
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Audio Junky
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Big three is a good idea for anybody with aftermarket electronics that pull a decent amount of amperage. If you're running more than 100amps worth in fuses on your amplifiers... it's really a good idea to upgrade the big three... mainly the big two is what most people need to upgrade.
1: Power cable 2: Battery ground cable 3: Alt charging cable 2 & 3 are the forgotten misfits. upgrading to a 2awg or 1/0awg on both of them should help your voltage stay more constant, and decrease the amount of current you lose in the wire due to heat & resistance. Every little bit helps your alternator work less. |
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#12 |
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Could any body list the materials for the Big 3! like how much cable to buy? how long? Terminal connectors and tools!
Thanks! and we are right into our topic (sound system upgrade) D.
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#13 |
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![]() ![]() Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3 |
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#14 |
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OEM deadening material
![]() Taking a break! ![]() Clean! ![]() 2 CLD Tiles. ![]() Some of that Radiant heat insulator... ![]() 1/4" CCF and ready for MLV ![]() With no MLV to work last night I started playing around with the amps, the 3rd amp will be here soon, maybe I'll put it under the passengers seat? or in line with these 2. I didn't realize they where so big and heavy ![]() ![]() This one will provide power to midrange and tweeters... ![]() PS. I will try not to forget the MLV tonight.
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#15 |
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I've made a post!
Drives: 2010 Sedan Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dixon, CA
Posts: 1
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#16 | |
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The OEM material is very chip (bad quality), will dry very quickly and eventually "Crack"; like in a previous post (back in the trunk section) where I found OEM deadening dry and cracking, that won't be good under the area treated. Tile aka CLD Tiles are not designed to block or stop the noise, the purpose of the CLD Tiles is to control "Resonance" on metal panels. And they have to be applied directly to metal. MLV is the material I'm using to block/stop unwanted noise, the foam also creates a small barrier but is more an absorbing material also used to prevent rattling between panels. If I was going to use only mat(tiles) for deadening I would have to put more than 2 or 3 layers to get the same results I'm getting with MLV. It's not bad it also would help for SPL, but will increase my work load. And like I mention at the begining of this thread, I'm only spending 2 to 4 hours a week. (well some times I'm lucky and I spend more time). But applying many layers of Mat to a car is time consuming, lots of work. I hope It helps. D.
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#17 |
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Wow 2:30 am!!!
I put the MLV over the floor between back seats and front seats, all what's left is the passenger's side, (it's going to be noisy in that area, I now, I can feel it, we'll see how it feels on my way to work). The hardest part was removing the back seat (again); to slide and overlap the layer of MLV with the one that comes from the trunk to create a continues sound barrier all over the floor area. I also wanted to reach for all the RCA cables I had under the MLV going back to the trunk, (plan A was to have the amps in the trunk) plan B, thanks to sqcomp I'm going to put them on the floor in front of the back seats (that's the area I treated tonight). This will bring the floor up! let say 4 or 5 inches. I don't care only my 3 year son goes in the back seat any way. I'll upload pictures tomorrow, or should I say "later" (o: D. I'm running low in CCF and MLV, I still
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#18 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 3dr Lftback (meteorite) Manual Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: utah
Posts: 41
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When you project is completed, I would love to know how much sound deadening you put into your car. cld=(sqft) ccf=(sqft) and mlv=(sqft) and any other materials... adhesives, velcro, anything else.
Thanks for the thread!! |
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