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Old 05-11-2010, 12:11 AM   #1
derickveliz2
 
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Thanks Herb,

I'm going to dig in a little bit more and see if I can do it with heat. I'm going to try again this weekend.

This is the LINK for the installation so you get a better idea.

Thanks a lot, any information here is appreciated.

D.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:33 AM   #2
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You're welcome. I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:48 AM   #3
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You're welcome. I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.
Thanks, I'll stop by a hardware store and pick up some PB Blaster tonight!

Also I got this:



from Loren, and these are the instruction he gave me:

"Just jack up the car and squeeze on in on each rear spring. Will raise the ride height a little, and by removing an active coil from the spring, also raise the spring rate."

My rear springs are not holding well the extra weight, and adding woofers, box and Amps! you can tell on the pictures that the rear is lower than the front, and been so soft (NF210s) tires tuck inside wheel well very easy and rubs, so this may help a little bit! We'll see how it goes.

Thanks!






I'm sorry to make a right turn out of the topic here, but we'll continue on our project...

I'm almost done with the floor, but pilot's area, and let me tell you that the noise makes it's way! so I need to make sure to get all leaks as possible, so for some one who only want's to do a portion of the treatment, I would suggest to do the DOORS, then WHEEL WELLS, at least with the doors treated you will improve the sound of your speakers, block outside noise but the most wonderful feeling is when you close your doors! THUMP, THUMP, very nice every time you slam your doors.

D.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:27 PM   #4
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I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:00 PM   #5
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I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?
dynamat it's what we have been calling here "MAT" maybe a little heavier than the RaamMat but same family.

For SPL is good to cover every single surface of your car, it doesn't compare to the method I'm using to block the noise that penetrates the inside of the cabin. (remember that for SPL competitions you are been tested in NO motion)

Applying many layers of MAT it does reduce the noise levels similar to the process I'm using.

The Car Audio industry is one of the only ones that still uses "MAT" aka dyamat, as a primary material for deadening, and that is because of Marketing, but in other industries I found 3 common factors:

1. take care of resonances ... by using (Constrained Layer Damper) CLD Tiles 25% of the area is enough, covering all the surfaces with "Mat" may be use but not necessary unless you are going for SPL

2. help cushion high frequencies that still goes through metal ... Close Cell Foam also used to prevent rattles between panels

3. Sound Barrier ... MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl to block exterior noise (and it's cheaper than "lead")


My goal with this process is to reduce the outside noise as much as possible specially at highway speeds, and in some places like front doors improve acoustical environment for speakers.

I hope it helps!

.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:24 AM   #6
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Very much so! Thank you!
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:37 AM   #7
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Very much so! Thank you!
You are welcome!

D.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:37 AM   #8
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Talking No more Rubbing AKA less noise! jeje

.

The Rubbing issues are gone (90%) but at least I don't have to drive my car with black wheels in front and silver wheels in back, feels so good now!



More info HERE





D.

.
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:48 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by derickveliz2 View Post
.

The Rubbing issues are gone (90%) but at least I don't have to drive my car with black wheels in front and silver wheels in back, feels so good now!



More info HERE





D.

.
Noice man!
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:09 AM   #10
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Wink

I did more work on the floor, removed some OEM deadening material behind pilots seat, added 2 CLD Tiles some of that heat barrier insulation (since I have lots of left overs why not?) and 1/4 CCF. I left the MLV at work so I will cut that tomorrow.

Picture soon.

D.
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:40 AM   #11
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Big three is a good idea for anybody with aftermarket electronics that pull a decent amount of amperage. If you're running more than 100amps worth in fuses on your amplifiers... it's really a good idea to upgrade the big three... mainly the big two is what most people need to upgrade.

1: Power cable
2: Battery ground cable
3: Alt charging cable

2 & 3 are the forgotten misfits.

upgrading to a 2awg or 1/0awg on both of them should help your voltage stay more constant, and decrease the amount of current you lose in the wire due to heat & resistance. Every little bit helps your alternator work less.
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:50 AM   #12
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Could any body list the materials for the Big 3! like how much cable to buy? how long? Terminal connectors and tools!

Thanks!

and we are right into our topic (sound system upgrade)

D.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:04 PM   #13
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Big 3 Tutorial


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Old 05-13-2010, 03:42 PM   #14
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OEM deadening material





Taking a break!




Clean!





2 CLD Tiles.





Some of that Radiant heat insulator...




1/4" CCF and ready for MLV





With no MLV to work last night I started playing around with the amps, the 3rd amp will be here soon, maybe I'll put it under the passengers seat? or in line with these 2. I didn't realize they where so big and heavy





This one will provide power to midrange and tweeters...




PS. I will try not to forget the MLV tonight.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derickveliz2 View Post
OEM deadening material


So just wondering, why did you take the OEM deadener off/out? Why not just put pieces of tile over it? I thought the more material you have to stop sound the better right...?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:55 AM   #16
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So just wondering, why did you take the OEM deadener off/out? Why not just put pieces of tile over it? I thought the more material you have to stop sound the better right...?

Thanks,
Mike
Hi Mike,

The OEM material is very chip (bad quality), will dry very quickly and eventually "Crack"; like in a previous post (back in the trunk section) where I found OEM deadening dry and cracking, that won't be good under the area treated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmjhp594 View Post
"pieces of tile over it?"
Tile aka CLD Tiles are not designed to block or stop the noise, the purpose of the CLD Tiles is to control "Resonance" on metal panels. And they have to be applied directly to metal. MLV is the material I'm using to block/stop unwanted noise, the foam also creates a small barrier but is more an absorbing material also used to prevent rattling between panels.

If I was going to use only mat(tiles) for deadening I would have to put more than 2 or 3 layers to get the same results I'm getting with MLV. It's not bad it also would help for SPL, but will increase my work load. And like I mention at the begining of this thread, I'm only spending 2 to 4 hours a week. (well some times I'm lucky and I spend more time). But applying many layers of Mat to a car is time consuming, lots of work.

I hope It helps.


D.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:48 AM   #17
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Wow 2:30 am!!!

I put the MLV over the floor between back seats and front seats, all what's left is the passenger's side, (it's going to be noisy in that area, I now, I can feel it, we'll see how it feels on my way to work). The hardest part was removing the back seat (again); to slide and overlap the layer of MLV with the one that comes from the trunk to create a continues sound barrier all over the floor area. I also wanted to reach for all the RCA cables I had under the MLV going back to the trunk, (plan A was to have the amps in the trunk) plan B, thanks to sqcomp I'm going to put them on the floor in front of the back seats (that's the area I treated tonight). This will bring the floor up! let say 4 or 5 inches. I don't care only my 3 year son goes in the back seat any way.

I'll upload pictures tomorrow, or should I say "later" (o:

D.

I'm running low in CCF and MLV, I still
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:28 AM   #18
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When you project is completed, I would love to know how much sound deadening you put into your car. cld=(sqft) ccf=(sqft) and mlv=(sqft) and any other materials... adhesives, velcro, anything else.

Thanks for the thread!!
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