Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

1 GOOD TIP for Manual Transmission!

I added synthetic silicone grease to all the moving parts at the stick, and if you ever have access to this area DO IT! makes changing gears feel so soft and QUITE!

(o:

D.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I may end up with more than 90 pounds from Deadening, it's like carrying that model all the time in your car.

So far on Friday I filled up with 9 gallons and exactly 400 miles, aka 44.44 MPG

Not bad!

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I'm personally looking forward to the increase in gas mileage once I'm done sound deadening my car! I've never seen above 37mpg, but then again, my right foot is definitely heavier than my left. Oh, and where do you get one of those "models"??? Although that may not go over real well with my wife!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

yeah, thats the plan, on the door to help keep speaker vibrations down. I'll have either an 8" midbass that throws 12mm one way, or a 6.5" midbass that goes 13mm one way. Either way there will be a lot of pressure in my doors.

If I understand correctly you are going to use the interior of the door as a woofer's box, right?

If that's the case I would add lot's of MAT specially in all the corners and on top of the CLD Tiles. It's not deadening the door any more, it's about a door to become a speaker box.

That gives me an Idea... I I could do that too! but then I need mid-rage speakers! where do I put them?

I'm going to end up begging for custom enclosures in the kick panels or up on the pillars. Should I try to make them?????

So many options, this will never end.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

I'm personally looking forward to the increase in gas mileage once I'm done sound deadening my car! I've never seen above 37mpg, but then again, my right foot is definitely heavier than my left. Oh, and where do you get one of those "models"??? Although that may not go over real well with my wife!

I see you have lot's of upgrades

2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs,
TRD anti-sway bar. TRD cold air intake. Tinted rear windows. Lenso
Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal
ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Megan Racing header. Vios badge.
Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom
center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace



I bet all that makes your car look FAST but also your right foot much heavier!

Also the diameter of the tires play a big roll in MPG, When I have the smaller tires 23.1 inches I get 40 MPG with the OEM size 23.7 inches I get 44 MPG

And of course, driving habits make a big difference, besides my commute is 100 miles a day 85% it's highway. 15% are backroads.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I see you have lot's of upgrades

2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs,
TRD anti-sway bar. TRD cold air intake. Tinted rear windows. Lenso
Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal
ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Megan Racing header. Vios badge.
Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom
center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace

I bet all that makes your car look FAST but also your right foot much heavier!

Also the diameter of the tires play a big roll in MPG, When I have the smaller tires 23.1 inches I get 40 MPG with the OEM size 23.7 inches I get 44 MPG

And of course, driving habits make a big difference, besides my commute is 100 miles a day 85% it's highway. 15% are backroads.

Thanks! It's been a fun car to mod. My Toyota mechanic buddy drove it the other day and said it rides and handles like an MR2. Some day I'd love to get it on the dyno and see what the numbers are to the ground, just for grins and giggles.


My commute is 34 miles round trip and 95% surface streets, 5% freeway. When I put 205's on it, the mileage dropped by about 3 mpg. Oh well. Not a big deal to me. My Tundra get's about 13 mpg, so I'm waaaay ahead of that!

Your Yaris looks very sharp with the new tire/rim combo! Nice!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Thanks!

Your Yaris looks very sharp with the new tire/rim combo! Nice!

Thanks!!!,

but I'm a little upset because I can't take out the spacers. With the spacers the rear tires rub so I'm driving a silly car with black wheel in front and silver wheels in back, I really don't like it!

[Herbicidal]

So did you add the spacers to push the rear wheels out further? If I recall, they are not very thick, 10mm? What kind of material are the spacers made from?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

So did you add the spacers to push the rear wheels out further? If I recall, they are not very thick, 10mm? What kind of material are the spacers made from?

Yes! the wheels are 10mm further out!

They are made of "6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum" this is the LINK






There was some rust facing the inner circle that got stock, I hit it with a sharp screw driver and a soft head hammer but didn't move a thing.
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:i ono:


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[Herbicidal]

Thanks for the visual...so is the spacer stuck to the back of the hub or to the surface of the axle side? I'm not clear on that part.

[Herbicidal]

I'm guessing it's stuck to the axle side. If that's the case, I would suggest a little heat from one of those propane torches. Like one of THESE. Carefully heat up the spacer and only the spacer, then try to tap it off. If that doesn't work, let it fully cool and try soaking the back of the spacer where it's making contact, with something like PB Blaster. See this LINK. Looks like it can be used with some heat too. Wish I was closer to help you out. Good luck!

[derickveliz2]

Thanks Herb,

I'm going to dig in a little bit more and see if I can do it with heat. I'm going to try again this weekend.

This is the LINK for the installation so you get a better idea.

Thanks a lot, any information here is appreciated.

D.

[Herbicidal]

You're welcome. I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

You're welcome. I posted a reply in that other thread. My suggestion at this moment would be to squirt in some PB Blaster and let it work on the rust until the weekend.

Thanks, I'll stop by a hardware store and pick up some PB Blaster tonight!

Also I got this:



from Loren, and these are the instruction he gave me:

"Just jack up the car and squeeze on in on each rear spring. Will raise the ride height a little, and by removing an active coil from the spring, also raise the spring rate."

My rear springs are not holding well the extra weight, and adding woofers, box and Amps! you can tell on the pictures that the rear is lower than the front, and been so soft (NF210s) tires tuck inside wheel well very easy and rubs, so this may help a little bit! We'll see how it goes.

Thanks!






I'm sorry to make a right turn out of the topic here, but we'll continue on our project...

I'm almost done with the floor, but pilot's area, and let me tell you that the noise makes it's way! so I need to make sure to get all leaks as possible, so for some one who only want's to do a portion of the treatment, I would suggest to do the DOORS, then WHEEL WELLS, at least with the doors treated you will improve the sound of your speakers, block outside noise but the most wonderful feeling is when you close your doors! THUMP, THUMP, very nice every time you slam your doors.

D.

[Emerge]

I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Emerge

I talked to a guy in one of my classes and he says his place does sound deadening by using dynamat. How does this compare to the methods and materials you are using?

dynamat it's what we have been calling here "MAT" maybe a little heavier than the RaamMat but same family.

For SPL is good to cover every single surface of your car, it doesn't compare to the method I'm using to block the noise that penetrates the inside of the cabin. (remember that for SPL competitions you are been tested in NO motion)

Applying many layers of MAT it does reduce the noise levels similar to the process I'm using.

The Car Audio industry is one of the only ones that still uses "MAT" aka dyamat, as a primary material for deadening, and that is because of Marketing, but in other industries I found 3 common factors:

1. take care of resonances ... by using (Constrained Layer Damper) CLD Tiles 25% of the area is enough, covering all the surfaces with "Mat" may be use but not necessary unless you are going for SPL

2. help cushion high frequencies that still goes through metal ... Close Cell Foam also used to prevent rattles between panels

3. Sound Barrier ... MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl to block exterior noise (and it's cheaper than "lead")


My goal with this process is to reduce the outside noise as much as possible specially at highway speeds, and in some places like front doors improve acoustical environment for speakers.

I hope it helps!

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[Emerge]

Very much so! Thank you!

[derickveliz2]

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The Rubbing issues are gone (90%) but at least I don't have to drive my car with black wheels in front and silver wheels in back, feels so good now!



More info HERE





D.

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[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Emerge

Very much so! Thank you!

You are welcome!

D.