I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[why?]

Originally Posted by sleey0

I see, and thank you. I shouldn't be comparing psi from the turbo to a sc.

See, you guys can hit me with the noob hammer once in a while. lol

Just wondering about that jimze blower and how much more it will put out and stress our engines.

Just want to make sure this is 100% clear. You can't even compare boost numbers from different turbo's, because different a/r's, compressor sizes, etc, can all make it different.

[Nexus1155]

No, its not that. I just don't want to see anyone blowing up their engines from thinking that. If you didn't know, somewhere down the line it may have happened to you if you didn't have the proper info. I'd have to see the flow charts for the supercharger to compare to anything, but its hard to judge without testing it out and seeing how much you can push it.

I'm still looking around for a cheap G60 supercharger in good condition or an M45, or a GT25. I keep losing the damn ebay auctions

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah don't feel bad, you gotta learn somehow... A couple months ago I didn't even know what a turbocharger or surpercharger was.

Interesting aside, and a testament to the learning power of our ECUs. For the first week and a half my narrowband signal has averaged about .22. As of the last couple days, it has actually risen to average out at about .38. Not too informative, but clearly the ECU has gotten better at running stoich conditions, even with forced induction in the mix. Tuning is obviously still needed though.

[sleey0]

So you have no fuel management right now aside from the stock ecu and only have a narrowband?

Even I know that is risky! Lol

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yep

I was originally expecting to get tuned before doing this much driving, but complications extended the install and then school started so I NEED my car. Not to mention my potential tuner gave off vibes of being a total ass. I rarely push 5 psi though, so I'm definitely trying to play it safe. There will be plenty of time to blow people away once tuning is done.

[sleey0]

All i know is that it must be extremely difficult to have a turbo and not drive like u have one.

I dont think i could do it lol. More power to ya!

I must say i have really enjoyed this thread and i wish u nothing but the best!

Oh, and once you learn the FIC, you will be getting pm's from me, bro! I am planning on using it with my sc setup in the next couple of months.

[sleey0]

Yes, I understand.

My question was supposed to be in general, ie "can our engines run @ 12psi safely without building the motor".

That was my question. :D

[cali yaris]

^ probably not for very long.

[Nexus1155]

:brokenhe art:

Look at it this way, whats the power output of a GT25 @ 12psi compared to a GT35. The difference is astronomical.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright so tuning... I just don't understand how changing values on the fuel map is honestly going to work. By doing that I'm setting up the STFT and, therefore, the LTFT to be wayyyy off... I feel like the O2 sensors need to be manipulated to get an accurate and reliable tune. Also - while driving it seems like they just lean the car right back out to 14.7 even when additional fuel is being added. This is due to closed loop though, right? When I change values during idle I can watch the wideband go richer, then quickly get corrected back to about 15. So I'm assuming I need to leave everything out of boost untouched, then figure out a way to force the car into open loop when I'm boosting. Then I can adjust fuel without having the O2 sensors interfering, right?

So it's either force the car into open loop at around 15 PSIA, or manipulate the O2 so closed loop is forcing a richer AFR than 14.7. I feel like the latter is what I have to do, because the car begins boosting while in closed loop.

UGH.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Well I had a crummy last two days lol. Car died because of battery terminal corrosion, then I went to go replace a coolant adapter and had the wrong one. Good thing is that I finally know the exact size thread I need so I can stop battling this stupid tiny leak.

Anyways, I've been toying with the FIC the last couple days and setup a MAF map. I put it in voltage mode and am using the MAF as the reference column. I then set all the rows to mirror the incoming MAF voltage. This way, MAF in = MAF out. However, at 2100 RPM and 2.81 volts, I've clamped everything beyond those values at 2.9V. This appeared to be the max N/A voltage reading I was obtaining. Not sure if this will work, as I haven't had time to try it yet.

Brian - if this works we won't need a MAF map. In fact I don't see why this wouldn't work. Anyhoo, I started throwing a MAF map together in case this fails, but it's been a real PITA so far...

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright.. Would like to talk about open loop. Hopefully some of you here will have some info for me.

I've yet to see my car enter open loop unless I am letting off the throttle entirely. How hard do you need to be pushing a car to enter open boost, WOT? Because I do my driving in the 1k-3.5k range and rarely hit WOT. Is there some sort of difference between a manual and automatic that I don't know about?

[sleey0]

Nevermind....

[Nexus1155]

nononono be lucky i am not tamago and i won't yell at you and i'll try not to go too in depth. I am going to show you what I mean. You are not allowed to build a turbo kit until you understand this. Basic I am sure you know, air + fuel + spark makes combustion and power. Doing something to allow air to flow into the engine more = more air+more fuel+spark = more power. Now if you take a turbo/supercharger and start forcing more air into the engine you will get alot more power.

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/maps/im...8rsturbine.gif

Pretty much identical turbo other than the area/radius of the housings. If you follow any pressure ratio on that given map you will see the larger housing will always be pushing more air through the engine.

Depending on if you want it for low end boost or more high end, something even in the same family of turbos can be dangerous to your engine if you do not size it properly even a GT25 and you end up cranking up the pressure one day by a little bit your engine might blow. Even though these engines ae only like $50 a pop.

[why?]

well maybe $500 a pop, but still dirt cheap engine wise.

[cdydjded]

Sitting in my warehouse, $350 delivered, 55000 mile
IMG00597.jpg

[Nexus1155]

SEE $350 DELIVERED and thats a pretty good condition one as far as i can tell. Can't beat that

[cali yaris]

50... no.... 500...no....... 350....... BINGO

LOL