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12-24-2010, 10:11 AM | #19 |
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I'll post some pictures in a little while, but I installed my Stebel horns last night. I used a smaller relay (one of the small blue Toyota ones). By using the smaller relay I was able to fit the relay and all of the wiring inside of the under dash fuse panel.
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12-24-2010, 12:32 PM | #20 | ||
Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
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Quote:
Quote:
Edit: Forgot to ask. Is that a Nathan P3 on the Avalanche? Last edited by coheed; 12-24-2010 at 12:58 PM. |
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12-24-2010, 12:58 PM | #21 |
Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
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Heres a quick comparison vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDapG8HRIMk You can kinda hear the echo too.
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12-24-2010, 01:07 PM | #22 |
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Now THOSE are horns!
Here's a video comparison of the OEM horn to my new Stebel horns: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wmxu1mJezI Here's how I wired it to keep everything neat within the under-hood fuse box: Wiring - Fuse Box.jpg I used a Toyota 90987-02027 or 90987-02012. This is a small SPST relay with 30A rated contacts. It is the same relay that is used for quite a few other functions in the Yaris, including the fog light relay. Wiring - Relay.jpg The coil of the relay gets connected to the horn wire (green wire in pin 1 of connector BA1) and ground (white wire with black stripe in pin 2 of connector CA1). Wiring - Horn Wire.jpg Wiring - Ground.jpg One contact of the relay goes to a battery power feed (I used one of the unused fusible link positions) via an appropriately sized fuse (20A in my case). The other goes to the positive power feed of the horn(s). The negative terminal(s) of the horn(s) go to a chassis ground point (like the mounting bolt of the horn). Wiring - Power and Fuse.jpg Here are the horns mounted. It turns out that there is a second tapped mounting hole under the plastic bumper support that is above the stock horn: Stebel Horns Mounted.jpg
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12-24-2010, 01:26 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas
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Nice tidy Install CT. Out of curiosity , why did you go with the TM80 over the nautilus. Just the sound, (deeper tone on the TM80 vs the nautilus) or was it conventional horn vs air?
I seem to be drawn to the Nautilus because of the higher tones I think. Both are equally loud, so in the end it may just be personal preference. Just curious about why you chose that one |
12-24-2010, 02:36 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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12-24-2010, 08:57 PM | #25 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
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yo awesome scott looks great thanks so much merry grizzmas
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12-29-2010, 10:45 AM | #26 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
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so hey im gonna bring my car to get the horn installed but i also noticed on the rely it says 12v 30a didnt relize before im guessing its 30 amps does this sound right? so yeah ill deff have to use the rely i guess ill find out in a day haha
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12-29-2010, 12:30 PM | #27 |
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That's fine. The 30A rating is for the relay contacts, so it is fine for switching the 12 Amps required by the horns.
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12-29-2010, 12:57 PM | #28 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united states
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yeah seems pretty straight forward ill get a video or something when its done im not gonna do a before because we all know what the stock horn sounds like...dinky
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12-29-2010, 07:23 PM | #29 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas
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I've seen those also CT, but I notice many of them say "has cracks on the side from manufacturing defect." I'm shying away from those,lol. Havent made up my mind yet.
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12-29-2010, 08:52 PM | #30 |
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That's exactly the one I went for. Turned out that they were perfect - no defects.
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12-29-2010, 09:26 PM | #31 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas
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No kidding! I thought, well, I could smear a light coat of JB Weld on the exterior to firm it up but......OK, I may go for it. But ,like you, I like the Nautilus tone better. A bit higher and maybe a bit more annoying? Which is what a horn is for is it not?!
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12-31-2010, 04:54 PM | #32 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united states
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so i just got them installed they sound way better then stock but the guy i went to said he didnt need the rely now i was a little skeptic but maybe he used something else i just figured he knew what he was doing. now if something were to go wrong would it happen right away or would it take a while to know if its fugged up? cuz i did the whole test of holding it down for like 20 seconds and nothing happened if a fuse were to blow or something does that take a while or would it have happened instantaneously thats all im getting at anyway ill try to post a vid
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12-31-2010, 05:36 PM | #33 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united states
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vid
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01-01-2011, 01:54 AM | #34 | |
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I have had these for what seems like ages now. Still love them and still surprises people as to how loud my car horn is. Best part was no air tank. Ok I lied, the best part is the 139dB of AWESOMENESS! But I dare say the twin set you went with would be really nice too.
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01-01-2011, 08:17 AM | #35 | |
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Quote:
Most electrical devices don't draw the full amount of current that the manufacturer lists (which is an absolute max rating). The worst case scenario is that as the horns age and the diaphragms stiffen, causing them to require more current to move, that the 10A fuse will pop.
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01-01-2011, 03:39 PM | #36 |
Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 1,258
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oh okay i see i guess ill jsut let em ride for now them seem and sound great so im happy for now
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Tags |
hella, horn, tone, trumpet, twin |
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