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Old 02-24-2009, 09:48 PM   #19
GeneW
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Could also be the Oxygen sensor, a borderline condition that does not trigger a check engine light but may be deranging mixture settings enough to cause the system to target something else that governs mixture.

There may also be issues with exhaust gas recirculation, if the vehicle has such a device, since carbon deposits may have broken lose and stuck it open or closed. I think most modern cars use an EGR because it reduces pre-detonation and improves NOx emissions by changing the chemistry of the combustion.

Another, more awful possiblity, is that you've compromised oil control by loosening up some carbon around the oil rings and now you have blow by. Easy to check, run the engine hot and see if there is "puffing" when the oil filler cap is removed, in really bad cases the dipstick holder will also "puff" blowby.

Another possibility is that your carbon removal trick has clogged the catalytic converter. You can test this problem by driving the vehicle under load - like up a hill - it will lose power rapidly going up hill. A clogged catalytic converter will cause issues with idling too.

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Old 02-24-2009, 09:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneW View Post
Could also be the Oxygen sensor, a borderline condition that does not trigger a check engine light but may be deranging mixture settings enough to cause the system to target something else that governs mixture.

There may also be issues with exhaust gas recirculation, if the vehicle has such a device, since carbon deposits may have broken lose and stuck it open or closed. I think most modern cars use an EGR because it reduces pre-detonation and improves NOx emissions by changing the chemistry of the combustion.

Another, more awful possiblity, is that you've compromised oil control by loosening up some carbon around the oil rings and now you have blow by. Easy to check, run the engine hot and see if there is "puffing" when the oil filler cap is removed, in really bad cases the dipstick holder will also "puff" blowby.

Another possibility is that your carbon removal trick has clogged the catalytic converter. You can test this problem by driving the vehicle under load - like up a hill - it will lose power rapidly going up hill. A clogged catalytic converter will cause issues with idling too.

Gene
I was thinking some of those things. I dont belive the cat is clogged since seafoam is usually supose to clean the cat. EGR malfunction is possible since a egr comming on at idle will cause issues.

I think tonight or tomorrow ill remove the throttle body and clean the iac valve first before anything. I am hoping that does the trick. I am changing the spark plugs since i have the intake off since they are worn and the incorrect one even though i dont think its the cause of the problem.

Hopefully that takes care of it. If not i guess egr is next step. I am glad there are many mechanics here on ayrisworld to bounce ideas off of. Its liek a real world house episode but with cars =)
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:56 PM   #21
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why haven't you checked the lymph nodes yet? ^^^^ hehe
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:37 PM   #22
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I was thinking some of those things. I dont belive the cat is clogged since seafoam is usually supose to clean the cat.
If you're still having issues after you've tried some things, reconsider the cat converter. Worst times I've had troubleshooting was when I assume that things were "not supposed to happen" and ended up happening.

Gene
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:31 PM   #23
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The seafoam will not clear a clogged cat and actually it will add crap to the honeycomb.

How is the higher end of the rpms doing? It could just be having a cloud of crap through the whole system. Need to drive it a bit at highway speeds.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:39 PM   #24
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Okay took the throttle body off today with the cost of my back. Tonight i have to sleep with my feet elevated on pillows and tons of advil and hope for the best in the morning.

But the throttle didnt look terribly bad. I cleaned it all out. Removed the iac and it was covered in carbon. Sprayed as much carb cleaner as i could and wiped it clean and cleaned the iac passages. Tomorrow will start to assemble everything back together and hope for the best. I havent really taked it on the freeway. I may have to take it out and drive it hard and hopefully blow out all the rest of the carbon.
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:04 AM   #25
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Hmm put everything back together and its doing the same thing. I noticed that when the car is cold it runs beautifully but once it warms up is when it starts to act up.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:47 AM   #26
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Check for a vacuum leak. Intake hose is probably hard and brittle esp on an old car like that. Probably developed a crack when moving around the hose to clean out the intake manifold. Hot and cold start situations might affect it because the movement of the engine at higher cold idle and lower hot idle closes off the crack or opens it up.

Also check all the other little hoses for cracks and leaks.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:14 AM   #27
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I checked for vacuum leaks actually all vacuum hoses and the intake hose. Actually broke portion of the hose taking it off throttle so replaced it cause it was so brittle.

Going to drive the car to my shop saturday morning. That way no cars out at 7:30 in the morning so dosnt matter too much if it stalls int he middle of the street just start it up and keep driving. I am going to just check all the basics, fuel pressure, ignition timing, compression, vaccum. I have to stop assuming it was something i did and not a preexisting condition. Just test everything and verify till i narrow the options down.
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:00 PM   #28
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:24 PM   #29
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