electric water pump help! - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

xxcanuckxx · 07-21-2007, 02:13 AM

is he still under his car? this sounds like a good idea...

mandriu · 07-21-2007, 11:24 PM

Ok I put the pump in today. As I suspected I had a couple of minor issues. First the belt was too short. So I will try a 425k4 tomorrow. I cut the original radiator hose and inserted the pump pulling water away from the engine. I piggypacked a relay switch to a green wire in the under hood fuse block. It is only on when the key is in the run position.

Problem number one. The thermostat works too well. Water will not go past it. This causes the radiator hose to collapse while engine is cold. I will cut 1/4" weep hole in the thermostat to allow some constant flow.(I am thinking about getting an electric thermostat that will control the pump.)

For now the belt is back on and the pump is not impeding flow so the obd2 reads around 180

I wish I had better news. Thank you for your attention.

PetersRedYaris · 07-21-2007, 11:59 PM

Why would you install a pump to pull water away from the engine??? Is it in the top hose? You could have avoided the collapsed hose if you installed it in the lower hose pushing water INTO the engine.

Your electric thermostat sound like a good idea if you want this set-up to work properly. Good luck.

churp · 07-22-2007, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PetersRedYaris

Why would you install a pump to pull water away from the engine??? Is it in the top hose? You could have avoided the collapsed hose if you installed it in the lower hose pushing water INTO the engine.

Your electric thermostat sound like a good idea if you want this set-up to work properly. Good luck.

Unless the pump puts out more pressure than the radiator cap is rated at you had air in the system (downstream of the pump)....liquid doesn't compress. Once the thermostat opens it 'may' purge itself naturally, and you'd be okay. But I agree that the lower hose may be better.

Did you remove the water pump so it doesn't restrict the flow?

Edit: Sorry, see you will be removing it later. Hope it doesn't restrict too much, or you have another vehicle until you're done!

mandriu · 07-22-2007, 12:52 AM

It's like with a straw. If you suck too hard the straw collapses. The thermostat is literally water tight. I initially removed the upper radiator hose at the filler tube and started the engine there was no flow. Since the cooling system was not pressurized I did not get any flow. I was amazed. I have it set pulling away because the thermostat is down there. Every diagram i have seen has the water leaving the engine at the thermostat

I am still not sure if the water leaves the engine at the thermostat. Anybody Know for sure?

churp · 07-22-2007, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandriu

It's like with a straw. If you suck too hard the straw collapses. The thermostat is literally water tight. I initially removed the upper radiator hose at the filler tube and started the engine there was no flow. Since the cooling system was not pressurized I did not get any flow. I was amazed. I have it set pulling away because the thermostat is down there. Every diagram i have seen has the water leaving the engine at the thermostat

I am still not sure if the water leaves the engine at the thermostat. Anybody Know for sure?

You get flow when the themostat is open, whether it's pressurized or not! To check the flow open the radiator cap, start the engine, and when it warms up you will see which direction it is going...you don't want to remove the radiator hose to see the direction. Believe me water flows into the top of the radiator. I will go out to the garage and verify at 1:30 in the morning for you....be right back.

churp · 07-22-2007, 02:24 AM

After many minutes the top hose get very hot to the touch at the radiator(thermostat opening allowing flow), then after a couple minutes the warm coolant warms the lower hose (finally arrives there). The coolant flows into the top of the radiator....absolutely. Every radiator has the heated coolant flowing into the top...no matter where the thermostat is.

mandriu · 07-22-2007, 09:35 AM

churp, I am glad that I checked here this morning, before I warm up that engine I will flip the pump the other way. I will go get the new belt, and maybe i will have new news, or similar problems giong the other way. And I will try to take a pic. Maybe this afternoon.

mandriu · 07-26-2007, 07:47 PM

Just a head's up. I have the pump hooked up. I had to take the thermostat out. The OEM pump circulates water through the block while the thermostat is closed. So I would not recommend the current set up to daily drivers.

The coolant temp runs between 150 and 170 degrees. so it is no constant with this set up.

My next plan is to get an oem wp gasket and try to make a plate that I can mount a wp118 from an LT1 engine to.

AlphaFox · 07-27-2007, 08:41 AM

cool, any power gains? thats what its for in the long run, right?

mandriu · 07-27-2007, 09:32 AM

It definately feels better on acceleration. I wish I knew where a dyno was here. Closest one I can find is Bowling Green It is so easy to throw the stock belt back on that I could do before and after runs.

AlphaFox · 07-27-2007, 11:53 AM

Id love to see the #'s, Glad it has more powa!

curik · 09-28-2009, 07:28 AM

mandriu, what sort of belt did you use? Are you running stock crank pulley?

Sir A.Y. Atoyot · 09-28-2009, 05:09 PM

Just remember that the thermostat housing is also called the water outlet. This immediately tells you which way the coolant flows.

Electric water pump? That's about the silliest waste of money I've encountered on this site, and there are plenty! No offense.

severous01 · 09-28-2009, 05:27 PM

every thermostat produced after about 1970 has a weep hole in it. it prevents thermal shock. idk where you got your tstat from, but i'd put an aftermarket in it. one with a hole.

i'd love to see this lt1 adapter...i have 2 laying around, and an extra CSR ewp....so........if it's not too much to modify i'll have a cheap waterpump...yay. the ltx is a direct swap, easy to fix, cheap ewp mod. you take out the 8 bolts holding the pulley to the pump housing, replace it with the ewp and new gaskets (provided with csr, dunno bout mezerie), put on some teflon/loc-tite and top off with coolant... easy. about 2 hours worth.

either way, i havent looked at the yaris wp, and if it's one solid unit, or it has a separate bearing/pulley/impeller. this could be really easy if it's separate.

cali yaris · 09-28-2009, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Electric water pump? That's about the silliest waste of money I've encountered on this site, and there are plenty! No offense.

Offense taken. Works great for me.

severous01 · 09-28-2009, 09:58 PM

speaking of.....how'd you do your pump cali? did you do something similar as here or what? if you can talk CSR or mezerie into a yaris/corolla/camry/tacoma pump i'd be interested.

curik · 10-22-2009, 06:26 AM

mandriu, i have bought the EWP kit and just wondering if the 425k4 belt fits (with WP pulley removed). The kit basically contains the EWP and electronic controller with other bits and pieces. I'm hoping to have a similar setup like yours..

07-22-2007, 02:24 AM	#25
churp Clean and (dis)Functional View User's Garage Drives: Yaris 2dr--Black Betty Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tropical Minnesota Posts: 562	After many minutes the top hose get very hot to the touch at the radiator(thermostat opening allowing flow), then after a couple minutes the warm coolant warms the lower hose (finally arrives there). The coolant flows into the top of the radiator....absolutely. Every radiator has the heated coolant flowing into the top...no matter where the thermostat is. __________________ ____________ Old School Cobble Jockey

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07-21-2007, 02:13 AM	#19
xxcanuckxx Drives: 2015 SE HB Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Bond Head Ontario Canada Posts: 35	is he still under his car? this sounds like a good idea...

07-21-2007, 11:24 PM	#20
mandriu 11b1p View User's Garage Drives: yaris s Join Date: May 2007 Location: nashville Posts: 44	Ok I put the pump in today. As I suspected I had a couple of minor issues. First the belt was too short. So I will try a 425k4 tomorrow. I cut the original radiator hose and inserted the pump pulling water away from the engine. I piggypacked a relay switch to a green wire in the under hood fuse block. It is only on when the key is in the run position. Problem number one. The thermostat works too well. Water will not go past it. This causes the radiator hose to collapse while engine is cold. I will cut 1/4" weep hole in the thermostat to allow some constant flow.(I am thinking about getting an electric thermostat that will control the pump.) For now the belt is back on and the pump is not impeding flow so the obd2 reads around 180 I wish I had better news. Thank you for your attention.

07-21-2007, 11:59 PM	#21
PetersRedYaris View User's Garage Drives: 2005 Scion xB Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: The Black Hills of South Dakota Posts: 1,059	Why would you install a pump to pull water away from the engine??? Is it in the top hose? You could have avoided the collapsed hose if you installed it in the lower hose pushing water INTO the engine. Your electric thermostat sound like a good idea if you want this set-up to work properly. Good luck.

07-22-2007, 12:52 AM	#23
mandriu 11b1p View User's Garage Drives: yaris s Join Date: May 2007 Location: nashville Posts: 44	It's like with a straw. If you suck too hard the straw collapses. The thermostat is literally water tight. I initially removed the upper radiator hose at the filler tube and started the engine there was no flow. Since the cooling system was not pressurized I did not get any flow. I was amazed. I have it set pulling away because the thermostat is down there. Every diagram i have seen has the water leaving the engine at the thermostat I am still not sure if the water leaves the engine at the thermostat. Anybody Know for sure?

07-22-2007, 09:35 AM	#26
mandriu 11b1p View User's Garage Drives: yaris s Join Date: May 2007 Location: nashville Posts: 44	churp, I am glad that I checked here this morning, before I warm up that engine I will flip the pump the other way. I will go get the new belt, and maybe i will have new news, or similar problems giong the other way. And I will try to take a pic. Maybe this afternoon.

07-27-2007, 08:41 AM	#28
AlphaFox Drives: 07' Yaris Liftback - silver Join Date: May 2006 Location: Springfield, Mass Posts: 475	cool, any power gains? thats what its for in the long run, right?

07-27-2007, 09:32 AM	#29
mandriu 11b1p View User's Garage Drives: yaris s Join Date: May 2007 Location: nashville Posts: 44	It definately feels better on acceleration. I wish I knew where a dyno was here. Closest one I can find is Bowling Green It is so easy to throw the stock belt back on that I could do before and after runs.

07-27-2007, 11:53 AM	#30
AlphaFox Drives: 07' Yaris Liftback - silver Join Date: May 2006 Location: Springfield, Mass Posts: 475	Id love to see the #'s, Glad it has more powa!

09-28-2009, 07:28 AM	#31
curik Drives: 06 yaris AT Join Date: May 2007 Location: Indonesia Posts: 43	mandriu, what sort of belt did you use? Are you running stock crank pulley?

09-28-2009, 05:09 PM	#32
Sir A.Y. Atoyot Drives: '08 5-door Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Surrey, BC Canada Posts: 176	Just remember that the thermostat housing is also called the water *outlet.* This immediately tells you which way the coolant flows. Electric water pump? That's about the silliest waste of money I've encountered on this site, and there are plenty! No offense.

09-28-2009, 05:27 PM	#33
severous01 Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SE Texas Posts: 977	every thermostat produced after about 1970 has a weep hole in it. it prevents thermal shock. idk where you got your tstat from, but i'd put an aftermarket in it. one with a hole. i'd love to see this lt1 adapter...i have 2 laying around, and an extra CSR ewp....so........if it's not too much to modify i'll have a cheap waterpump...yay. the ltx is a direct swap, easy to fix, cheap ewp mod. you take out the 8 bolts holding the pulley to the pump housing, replace it with the ewp and new gaskets (provided with csr, dunno bout mezerie), put on some teflon/loc-tite and top off with coolant... easy. about 2 hours worth. either way, i havent looked at the yaris wp, and if it's one solid unit, or it has a separate bearing/pulley/impeller. this could be really easy if it's separate.

09-28-2009, 09:58 PM	#35
severous01 Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SE Texas Posts: 977	speaking of.....how'd you do your pump cali? did you do something similar as here or what? if you can talk CSR or mezerie into a yaris/corolla/camry/tacoma pump i'd be interested.

10-22-2009, 06:26 AM	#36
curik Drives: 06 yaris AT Join Date: May 2007 Location: Indonesia Posts: 43	mandriu, i have bought the EWP kit and just wondering if the 425k4 belt fits (with WP pulley removed). The kit basically contains the EWP and electronic controller with other bits and pieces. I'm hoping to have a similar setup like yours..