URGENT Advice Needed! Relating to Power Steering, Alternator and Electrical. - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

CTScott · 10-20-2010, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

Cuz of chances of a getting a returned one? Lol on the underwear.

About 10 years ago I did a project where I analyzed about a dozen different 50-55AH lead acid batteries from generic ones (like the Costco one) to crazy expensive ones. Replacing the battery pack (which consisted of 4 55AH car batteries) was extremely expensive, particularly for shipping them. The results showed that you really get what you pay for with batteries. Good quality ones would have 5+ times the life of cheap ones. For us, saving 5 rounds of shipping far outweighed the 2-3x higher cost of the better quality batteries. To this day, Sonnenschein batteries remain my personal favorite.

bzinn 1 · 10-20-2010, 11:38 PM

Had that problem in my last car with things gremlining.....after months of trying to find it it was a wire corroded under the casing that went tothe starter.......only reason i found it is it finally loaded up and burnt and wehn i cut it open there was corrosion....

Little known fact......Johnson Controls makes most of the batteries that are on the market.....lol.....they make them to each manufacture specs.

The battery may of been the last area that some loose or corroded wire loaded up resistance and the battery bubbled.

Do you live in a climate where there is lots of snow,ice,salted roads......

Electrical gremlin may of been the reman alternator,some of them last for years and I have had some go in months,the windings short and it goes out fast.

Hope you have good luck with the car....electrical gremlins can be a pain.

.Kevin. · 10-20-2010, 11:43 PM

"Kirkland" That explains alot. Why not just buy a Stock one. My car battery is made by Sony lol like my PS3 never fails.

EDIT: Btw make sure you wear gloves while taking that out if you do it yourself.

The Marshall · 10-21-2010, 12:34 AM

The car was a former rental from Toronto, and spent a year in Sudbury. Now it's back in Toronto, so that's a big yes for iced roads and cold climates.

When I brought it to the dealer the work order had "Check under fuse box for corrosion. Everything OK".

Where else should I be checking?

Of course I'm going to use gloves to change it lol, lead acid probably wouldn't be a nice moisturizer!

bobselectric · 10-21-2010, 07:23 AM

From the pics it also looks like the hood support rod is on the neg battery terminal, and in the second, close to shorting out to the pos terminal. Driving around, the bumps, shakes, and vibrations might be causing it to short the battery out.

Oh, and get the underhood area cleaned- you might be able to see more of a problem with less grime

OTA'sTOY · 10-21-2010, 03:02 PM

maybe just maybe you should replace that bungee with the the OE clamp and change your battery to OE group 26R IMO

The Marshall · 10-21-2010, 06:43 PM

I might have to do that. I re-installed the correct OEM sized battery today and it's really not looking good. I wrapped the hood support in electrical tape and duct taped it in so it won't make contact, but that battery is definetly not secure.

The car came with the proper sized battery and support piece but I was having trouble removing the old one and putting the new one in, so my neighbour at the time, who is a mechanic, tried and ended up snapping the rod in half...

What would I be looking to pay to get a new one, and it's probably going to have to be installed by someone. I am not at all handy and have only access to street parking

CTScott · 10-21-2010, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Marshall

I might have to do that. I re-installed the correct OEM sized battery today and it's really not looking good. I wrapped the hood support in electrical tape and duct taped it in so it won't make contact, but that battery is definetly not secure.

The car came with the proper sized battery and support piece but I was having trouble removing the old one and putting the new one in, so my neighbour at the time, who is a mechanic, tried and ended up snapping the rod in half...

What would I be looking to pay to get a new one, and it's probably going to have to be installed by someone. I am not at all handy and have only access to street parking

A replacement OEM one shouldn't be more than $20.

10-20-2010, 11:43 PM	#21
.Kevin. I ain't even mad Drives: 2010 1E7 Toyota Yaris Sedan Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Prince George, BC. Canada Posts: 954	"Kirkland" That explains alot. Why not just buy a Stock one. My car battery is made by Sony lol like my PS3 never fails. EDIT: Btw make sure you wear gloves while taking that out if you do it yourself. __________________

10-21-2010, 03:02 PM	#24
OTA'sTOY DAT'S RIGHT I GOTz 2 View User's Garage Drives: '10 5dr Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Hilo, Hawaii Posts: 361	maybe just maybe you should replace that bungee with the the OE clamp and change your battery to OE group 26R IMO __________________

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10-20-2010, 11:38 PM	#20
bzinn 1 Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: University Place,WA Posts: 828	Had that problem in my last car with things gremlining.....after months of trying to find it it was a wire corroded under the casing that went tothe starter.......only reason i found it is it finally loaded up and burnt and wehn i cut it open there was corrosion.... Little known fact......Johnson Controls makes most of the batteries that are on the market.....lol.....they make them to each manufacture specs. The battery may of been the last area that some loose or corroded wire loaded up resistance and the battery bubbled. Do you live in a climate where there is lots of snow,ice,salted roads...... Electrical gremlin may of been the reman alternator,some of them last for years and I have had some go in months,the windings short and it goes out fast. Hope you have good luck with the car....electrical gremlins can be a pain.

10-21-2010, 12:34 AM	#22
The Marshall Drives: 2007 Yaris 5-Door, Black Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: The Big Smoke Posts: 29	The car was a former rental from Toronto, and spent a year in Sudbury. Now it's back in Toronto, so that's a big yes for iced roads and cold climates. When I brought it to the dealer the work order had "Check under fuse box for corrosion. Everything OK". Where else should I be checking? Of course I'm going to use gloves to change it lol, lead acid probably wouldn't be a nice moisturizer!

10-21-2010, 07:23 AM	#23
bobselectric Kickin' Yaris Drives: 07 Yaris liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: west harrison, ny Posts: 523	From the pics it also looks like the hood support rod is on the neg battery terminal, and in the second, close to shorting out to the pos terminal. Driving around, the bumps, shakes, and vibrations might be causing it to short the battery out. Oh, and get the underhood area cleaned- you might be able to see more of a problem with less grime

10-21-2010, 06:43 PM	#25
The Marshall Drives: 2007 Yaris 5-Door, Black Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: The Big Smoke Posts: 29	I might have to do that. I re-installed the correct OEM sized battery today and it's really not looking good. I wrapped the hood support in electrical tape and duct taped it in so it won't make contact, but that battery is definetly not secure. The car came with the proper sized battery and support piece but I was having trouble removing the old one and putting the new one in, so my neighbour at the time, who is a mechanic, tried and ended up snapping the rod in half... What would I be looking to pay to get a new one, and it's probably going to have to be installed by someone. I am not at all handy and have only access to street parking